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Matt Griffin

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    aka: Houngan

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    Louisville, KY
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    Matt Griffin

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  1. The pistol, especially when we're talking about revolver where SW is the only gun used, is not a limiting factor on accuracy. Put it out of your mind, the gun needs no other help than being pointed correctly and discharged without disruption.
  2. Of course it's a guess without seeing you, but you're probably under compressed on your strong hand. The back of the grip needs to be in line with your arm and you need to squoosh the flesh of your palm until you a positive connection between the frame and your hand bones. If the gun is able to spend time accelerating while your hands are static, as in it is compressing your thumb flesh rather than feeding into your platform, then you get enhanced recoil and wear. A good grip should make it so that you don't even feel the shot in your hands. It's all in the wrist and arms.
  3. The long answer is that you need to develop the mental strategy to execute a trigger pull appropriate to the target at hand. It becomes a "feel" that you don't have to think about, driven by the desire for an Alpha. For instance, a split shot (grip, stance, etc. already established) at 50 yards is about the same difficulty as a shot from the draw at 10 yards. Consider .4 to get the gun out and moving, the remaining .6 or so is in bringing the gun up and letting the shot go after you've seen enough of a sight picture. Call it a .6 split, then. Everything feeds into this, nerves, exhaustion, movement, bad grip, etc. They all inform your brain as to the difficulty of the current shot, and by doing so dictate your correct trigger speed to execute. The trap is trying to predetermine the trigger speed. It's impossible. You watch me nail a draw, get a perfect grip, and let the shot go seemingly as soon as the gun reaches my eyes and you might think that's the correct speed for the shot. It isn't. It's just the correct speed for that particular shot, and will never happen exactly the same way again. I could run the stage a hundred times and I'm going to catch the grip too low, miss the weak hand coming on, put my finger in the wrong spot on the trigger, think about my crappy hotel room, etc. They all feed into a feeling about the shot at hand and your brain adjusts automatically to achieve the result. When everything is flowing perfectly you have the luxury of waiting on your finger. However, 90% of the time your finger is waiting on your brain, which has been slowed down by your mistakes. Specifically to your question, you reduce your draw time/shot time by locking in the early parts of the draw, and your brain should start cycling the trigger midway up because it knows the sight picture will be there when it arrives. You can't fool your brain about this, it's like training a dog. It has to see enough iterations of it happening before it will trust itself to start the pull. Train for the alphas and let your brain do the heavy lifting on "what?" and "how?" Constantly push yourself into failure territory, but do so as a training technique and not as a desire to get to a specific time or hit factor. Those things are results, not strategies.
  4. I would strongly advise getting a few thousand of the same headstamp. It doesn't matter which, but I can feel a big difference when something else sneaks in. Then experiment with what works, for Winchester .008 is the sweet spot. Cleaning or reaming doesn't seem to be necessary after 30 or more loads on each.
  5. It's normal and not a problem. I must have nearly two million cycles on my primary gun and haven't changed the stop or cylinder yet. Primary failure is yoke bending and end shake.
  6. Any new revo will have that problem. Get someone to ream the chambers and shoot the hell out of it, they'll loosen up.
  7. I went around 7 lower than normal, 40fps lower than my chrono a few days before.
  8. Good call, I'd also encourage everyone to enforce squad sizes, at least somewhat. Having a six man squad behind a fourteen man squad is no fun. I'm coming down and even bringing my bow, maybe I'll try the archery course after the match.
  9. Just because I choose to play nice on this forum, don't think I can't spot a troll. No hamburger for you.
  10. I settled on Winchester brass simply because it was what I had the most of, and it seems to work well. I don't bother measuring any more and have no failures at 5.5# trigger pull.
  11. First point about stage breakdown: Know where the targets are. This must be 100% perfect before moving on. Seems simple, but often it surprises folks. Do not trust the match book, do not trust the walkthrough, do not trust your fellow shooters (though keep an ear open in case they see something you don't) Second point: Divide by six. Third point: If the result is uneven, try to plan so that you have the extra rounds where steel is present Fourth point: Try to empty the gun whenever possible Fifth point: Don't make the mistake of thinking that you can magically reload before you can take a second step. You can cover a lot of ground during a reload, plan accordingly. (I'm looking at you, Olhasso.) And there's a bunch of other stuff beyond that, but the secret of stage breakdown is to knock out the most confusing parts first, then worry about tuning. I see so many people focus on one piddly part of a stage and then wind up tanking the thing as a whole. Get the overall feel first, then worry about the fiddly bits. A confident and well-internalized second-best plan will usually beat a perfect-but-uncertain plan.
  12. Yeah, you're overseating them. And yeah, you do have to worry about depth. Don't lean on the handle. Give it this stroke: forward until you feel the primer start to engage, then a firm, medium-fast shove, like you're messing with a friend and mock-fighting, shoving his shoulder without any real ill intent. You should bounce away from it a bit, but not flex the reloader at all. When I get a good rhythm going I lean forward a few inches then shove off a few inches, over and over. My failures start at .004 and below and .014 and above.
  13. Nah, it's not that bad, though there's every chance you could lose a part or two. The rebound slide is really the only skilled removal/reinstallation. Use a proper screwdriver and hit the screws with a blowtorch for a few seconds before taking it apart, Smith uses loctite on the yoke screw and they apparently buy screws made out of cream cheese.
  14. Considering the amount of dryfire necessary to stay at a certain level that would be impossible to maintain.
  15. Wouldn't it be load recoil more than anything else? I would think the difference in gun movement during firing would have the most impact.
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