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RIA VR80 coming in 2019


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13 minutes ago, WWG1WGA said:

Did you clean the gun first or just load up and go? When I got mine, I took everything apart. And I found metal chips throughout it along with a bunch of thick black sludge. Don’t let the quart of oil covering everything fool you. I’d break it completely down, clean everything, and start again. I’d also just run a bunch of junk birdshot through it for more brake-in. Mine didn’t like the cheap crap at first but neither did I, so me and a buddy took turns loading mags and shooting a lot of FTF, FTE, until it grew to like the cheap stuff. Then it shoots everything. Also make sure your gas ports inside the barrel don’t have any metal hanging inside the holes or barrel. You may be getting a lead cheese grater affect going on. 

My VR80 was dripping with oil and I did clean it thoroughly before I shot it and I did look at the barrel gas ports before shooting because others noted there might be metal hanging in there (there was none there new nor after this problem happened). I will switch to shot vs. slugs for my next time out to try to minimize the lead accumulation and to break in.

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7 hours ago, jason_something said:

Yeah, it's possible that's the issue.

The bolt carrier or whatever you want to call it, part 44 according to the instruction manual, is what the gas piston bits push on to cycle the gun.  The bolt carrier thing also blocks the firing pin from being struck when its out of battery.

 

So if your gas port was full of lead and preventing the gas piston from seating all the way then that could also stop the bolt carrier from going all the way forward and the hammer would strike the carrier rather than the firing pin.

 

Could be other things too, some bit of crud stuck in the bolt and locking the firing pin solid or a canted / messed up bolt release but given the current known issue of lead fouling of the gas port and piston, I'd just start with that.

 

7 hours ago, jason_something said:

Yeah, it's possible that's the issue.

The bolt carrier or whatever you want to call it, part 44 according to the instruction manual, is what the gas piston bits push on to cycle the gun.  The bolt carrier thing also blocks the firing pin from being struck when its out of battery.

 

So if your gas port was full of lead and preventing the gas piston from seating all the way then that could also stop the bolt carrier from going all the way forward and the hammer would strike the carrier rather than the firing pin.

 

Could be other things too, some bit of crud stuck in the bolt and locking the firing pin solid or a canted / messed up bolt release but given the current known issue of lead fouling of the gas port and piston, I'd just start with that.

I'm guessing I did diagnose the problem but wanted some reactions from the group and your comment about the bolt carrier blocking the firing pin if not in battery makes sense. As far as the bolt release goes, I did see some light marks on it. I may try removing/filing it down/reinstalling but my next time out I'll be using shot in lieu of slugs to see if that minimizes the lead fouling and allows me to break in the firearm. Thanks.

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6 hours ago, BSE said:

 

I'm guessing I did diagnose the problem but wanted some reactions from the group and your comment about the bolt carrier blocking the firing pin if not in battery makes sense. As far as the bolt release goes, I did see some light marks on it. I may try removing/filing it down/reinstalling but my next time out I'll be using shot in lieu of slugs to see if that minimizes the lead fouling and allows me to break in the firearm. Thanks.

I will say I had this light strike problem and removed the stop, this improved the situation but not 100%. I then trimmed the FP spring a little and that helped as well but I still could get an occasional light hit with some ammo. I stopped trying to sort it and waited for my T&N ignition parts to arrive and see what that would do. Once new hammer, springs, and trigger went in it is now 100%. The question is could I now put the bolt stop back in and it still work perfectly? Not sure since I have decided I like it out.

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So I removed the bolt release (the threaded pin wasn't even screwed in all the way) and was surprised at how much further forward the hammer moves without the bolt release. I filed down a portion of the bolt release but was concerned about removing too much material and making it too thin. I used some bluing agent and put it all back together and will test it out next time I'm at the range.

 

After seeing how much further forward the hammer moves w/out the release, I understand now why some remove it. I also need to budget for the T&N trigger!

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5 hours ago, SQUIDload said:

 

So its about 9.75" long

Thanks squid!  Is it machine finished on both ends or just one end and the other looks like it was just a cut coil??

The reason I ask is I think this is a standard AR15 flat wire recoil spring (14") that Taccom just cut to the 9.75" and resells them for the VR80.

If it is finished exactly the same on both ends, then I am completely wrong and Taccom had them made to their spec.

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39 minutes ago, Brasspicker said:

Thanks squid!  Is it machine finished on both ends or just one end and the other looks like it was just a cut coil??

The reason I ask is I think this is a standard AR15 flat wire recoil spring (14") that Taccom just cut to the 9.75" and resells them for the VR80.

If it is finished exactly the same on both ends, then I am completely wrong and Taccom had them made to their spec.

 

Its a cut spring.  

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On 9/6/2019 at 12:47 PM, WWG1WGA said:

Thanks squid! Now who has a carbine spring that cut just the number of coils off that taccom suggests? I cut more than they said to

I have the cut carbine spring in mine. I just ordered a aftermarket backplate for my VR80. When it comes I'll take it apart and measure the spring if someone else doesn't chime in first.

Edited by IHMSA15151
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3 hours ago, IHMSA15151 said:

I have the cut carbine spring in mine. I just ordered a aftermarket backplate for my VR80. When it comes I'll take it apart and measure the spring if someone else doesn't chime in first.

Thanks for that. Did you find a backplate that fit? I thought the hole in the receiver was smaller than normal and wouldn’t let the backplate fit into it properly. If yours does fit, let me know where you found it. Thanks

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4 hours ago, WWG1WGA said:

Thanks for that. Did you find a backplate that fit? I thought the hole in the receiver was smaller than normal and wouldn’t let the backplate fit into it properly. If yours does fit, let me know where you found it. Thanks

It's this one:

https://m3tacticaltech.com/collections/all/vr80-backplate#MainContent

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On 9/6/2019 at 8:03 PM, SQUIDload said:

 

Its a cut spring.  

Ok, so I think I know what Taccom is offering with these flat wire recoil springs...….

I found it odd that it only measures 9.75" and is a cut spring and not factory finished on both ends....hmmmm.

So here's what I have deduced, these are nothing more than a strike industries ar10 .308 flat wire spring which is exactly 19.50" long that are cut exactly in half (9.75")

So I'm testing my theory and picked up a new strike industries spring from Brownells for $19.99 and cut it in half to get 2 springs.$9.99 each vs Taccoms price of $25.

Will test it out tomorrow to see how it runs with the Taccom buffer.

If I'm wrong ,which I don't think I am,  I will owe the guys at Taccom an apology, lol.

Will report back the results tomorrow.

 

Cheers

john

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IMG_3753.jpg

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you would be wrong.......we have a spring made for us that has an open end that we use for both our DBRS carbine system and the VR80. The DBRS spring is used how they come and we clip coils to make the spring work for the VR80. I am not sure what the spring rate you have, but I am sure you can get it to work. But looking at the coil pitch.....I suspect that the spring you have is a heavier spring.

Edited by TRUBL
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TIME TO EAT SOME CROW ,,,
Went to test my theory at the range and I need to apologize to Taccom as I am 100% wrong !!
The cut AR10 spring did function, but barely. It barely had enough pressure to close the bolt.
All I succeeded to prove is that I can waste $20 faster than anyone. Lol
What’s even funnier is that I didn’t want to wait to order from brownells and actually bought it in our local gun shop and paid the premium$35 Canadian for it.

Now part of this I blame Taccom , lol(kidding) because if they would ship to Canada , I wouldn’t have to get creative and would order 1 of everything from them. Just saying. Or at least make your parts available to buy through Brownells as they ship to Canada.

So.....nom nom nom nom nom
( that’s me eating crow , lol)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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30 minutes ago, Brasspicker said:

TIME TO EAT SOME CROW ,,,
Went to test my theory at the range and I need to apologize to Taccom as I am 100% wrong !!
The cut AR10 spring did function, but barely. It barely had enough pressure to close the bolt.
All I succeeded to prove is that I can waste $20 faster than anyone. Lol
What’s even funnier is that I didn’t want to wait to order from brownells and actually bought it in our local gun shop and paid the premium$35 Canadian for it.

Now part of this I blame Taccom , lol(kidding) because if they would ship to Canada , I wouldn’t have to get creative and would order 1 of everything from them. Just saying. Or at least make your parts available to buy through Brownells as they ship to Canada.

So.....nom nom nom nom nom
( that’s me eating crow , lol)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dont you guys still trade shells

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4 hours ago, Brasspicker said:

TIME TO EAT SOME CROW ,,,
Went to test my theory at the range and I need to apologize to Taccom as I am 100% wrong !!
The cut AR10 spring did function, but barely. It barely had enough pressure to close the bolt.
All I succeeded to prove is that I can waste $20 faster than anyone. Lol
What’s even funnier is that I didn’t want to wait to order from brownells and actually bought it in our local gun shop and paid the premium$35 Canadian for it.

Now part of this I blame Taccom , lol(kidding) because if they would ship to Canada , I wouldn’t have to get creative and would order 1 of everything from them. Just saying. Or at least make your parts available to buy through Brownells as they ship to Canada.

So.....nom nom nom nom nom
( that’s me eating crow , lol)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You said if you were wrong you’d come back and apologize... and you did! Hats off to you. It’s almost worth a spring send to Canada wouldn’t you say? 

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On 9/6/2019 at 12:47 PM, WWG1WGA said:

Thanks squid! Now who has a carbine spring that cut just the number of coils off that taccom suggests? I cut more than they said to

Ok, my new backplate arrived so I took everything apart. The carbine spring with the coils cut per Taccom recommendations comes out to 9" long. I'll most likely end up ordering one of their flat springs in hopes of making it easier to lock the bolt back.

Spring.JPG

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seems very short, does Taccom recommend cutting 6 coils off a rifle spring (12.75") or cutting 6 coils off a carbine length spring (10.5")???

This seems like it would be too short to function properly??

Anyone want to chime in on this, as clearly I am no spring expert LOL!

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