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RIA VR80 coming in 2019


Rudukai13

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21 hours ago, SQUIDload said:

 

 

Well damn.  That’s not how I understood it when I bought it.   Anyone want to buy mine?

pretty much states that on the website.....sorry if you didn't see that. Just loose the factory buffer tube......unless you live in one of those states.

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21 hours ago, WWG1WGA said:

Let me rephrase...is the flat wire spring the same length and compression rate as the “cut” carbine spring? I’m asking because I’ve been trying all kinds of springs to see what if anything works better. Using the taccom buffer I’ve cut more coils off the carbine spring then taccom recommends, I’ve tried the jp silent captured spring, I’ve tried the Odin works buttstock that has an additional spring built into the cap of a rifle length tube, and all combinations above with the stock spring. I’m wondering if this spring is going to be worth trying if it is a different compression rate or if it’s just the same rate as the cut spring but made of flat wire instead. Thanks

Just so you know......the front end of the buffers on the VR80 is different than any other buffers......ALSO, you need to have a spring that will compress and not go solid due tot he fact that the buffers are so short. The flat wire spring is a little stronger than a std carbine spring, but not as strong as the factory spring......the big thing is that is will allow the buffer to come ALL the way back and not go solid. Not even the factory spring allows that with the factory buffer. About the only things you can do is either use the factory set up, factory spring with the TACCOM buffer or go to a flat wire spring with the TACCOM buffer.......many on them on the market, ours is set up for the VR80

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I just purchased a VR80 yesterday and took to the range today. Shot approximately 50 rounds of Winchester Super X 1 oz. slugs (2.75", 1,600 FPS) using the "light load" piston with a few failures to feed. Then something strange happened--I would shoot, the gun cycles, I would squeeze the trigger again and just hear a "click" and no fire. Ejected the slug and looked at the primer--didn't looked like it was even struck. Tried again, and ultimately got it to shoot but then the very next shot the same misfire would happen. I started to hand feed rounds into the ejection port and same thing--click but no boom, primer did not look like it was even struck. I eventually gave up since I could not get the gun to fire.

 

I thoroughly cleaned the VR80 when I got home and was surprised at the amount of lead on the piston and inside the gas block. There was so much I had to use a brass punch to separate the piston from the gas block--I couldn't remove it by hand. Also the gas retaining nut was slightly loose. The bolt and firing pin all seemed fine and all parts seemed to move freely.

 

Is it possible that with the lead on the piston and gas block, plus with the retaining nut loosening up, that the bolt didn't fully go forward, thus the misfire and the lack of the primer being touched? Other ideas as to what happened? I've never had a firearm work for 50 or so rounds and then just go "click." 

 

Thanks

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1 minute ago, BSE said:

I just purchased a VR80 yesterday and took to the range today. Shot approximately 50 rounds of Winchester Super X 1 oz. slugs (2.75", 1,600 FPS) using the "light load" piston with a few failures to feed. Then something strange happened--I would shoot, the gun cycles, I would squeeze the trigger again and just hear a "click" and no fire. Ejected the slug and looked at the primer--didn't looked like it was even struck. Tried again, and ultimately got it to shoot but then the very next shot the same misfire would happen. I started to hand feed rounds into the ejection port and same thing--click but no boom, primer did not look like it was even struck. I eventually gave up since I could not get the gun to fire.

 

I thoroughly cleaned the VR80 when I got home and was surprised at the amount of lead on the piston and inside the gas block. There was so much I had to use a brass punch to separate the piston from the gas block--I couldn't remove it by hand. Also the gas retaining nut was slightly loose. The bolt and firing pin all seemed fine and all parts seemed to move freely.

 

Is it possible that with the lead on the piston and gas block, plus with the retaining nut loosening up, that the bolt didn't fully go forward, thus the misfire and the lack of the primer being touched? Other ideas as to what happened? I've never had a firearm work for 50 or so rounds and then just go "click." 

 

Thanks

I had this issue and just removed the factory bolt release. For some reason the factory bolt release was in the way of the hammer actually striking the firing pin

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5 hours ago, AverageJoeShooting said:

I had this issue and just removed the factory bolt release. For some reason the factory bolt release was in the way of the hammer actually striking the firing pin

Interesting. I looked at my lower and I can see how the hammer moves forward a fraction more if I move the factory bolt release but I'm still trying to understand why this would not happen immediately rather than after 50+ rounds. Certainly not something I would have considered...thanks.

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11 hours ago, TRUBL said:

Just so you know......the front end of the buffers on the VR80 is different than any other buffers......ALSO, you need to have a spring that will compress and not go solid due tot he fact that the buffers are so short. The flat wire spring is a little stronger than a std carbine spring, but not as strong as the factory spring......the big thing is that is will allow the buffer to come ALL the way back and not go solid. Not even the factory spring allows that with the factory buffer. About the only things you can do is either use the factory set up, factory spring with the TACCOM buffer or go to a flat wire spring with the TACCOM buffer.......many on them on the market, ours is set up for the VR80

What is the length of the new flat recoil spring??

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Good question. Assuming if it’s stronger than a carbine spring than it would have to be shorter than what they said to cut it to. I’ve still cut a few more coils off beyond that and everything still functions fine. Even backed out the tube a bit. Still a pain to try to lock the bolt back and use the bolt release. Considering just removing the bolt release and calling it a day. 

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15 minutes ago, WWG1WGA said:

Good question. Assuming if it’s stronger than a carbine spring than it would have to be shorter than what they said to cut it to. I’ve still cut a few more coils off beyond that and everything still functions fine. Even backed out the tube a bit. Still a pain to try to lock the bolt back and use the bolt release. Considering just removing the bolt release and calling it a day. 

I've been running mine without the factory bolt release, almost since I bought it. Works perfectly 

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Question concerning the ammo...…..is everyone using factory ammo?  How about reload/handloads?  Anybody try them at all?  I understand about shells going oval if left in the magazines too long...so is that why I never hear about someone using their own handloads in the VR80?  Will the handloaded shotshell not hold round enough to keep the gun going?

 

Your thoughts...……..

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10 minutes ago, Alvin said:

Question concerning the ammo...…..is everyone using factory ammo?  How about reload/handloads?  Anybody try them at all?  I understand about shells going oval if left in the magazines too long...so is that why I never hear about someone using their own handloads in the VR80?  Will the handloaded shotshell not hold round enough to keep the gun going?

 

Your thoughts...……..

I just use cheap walmart ammo. That was essential for me because I'm lazy and refuse to spend tons of money on ammo

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I ALWAYS used AAs when I had tube shotguns, but after a couple of matches that were 100 degrees, switched to Remington STS, because the hulls seemed stronger. I switched again to Federal Grand. Buying the good ammunition when there’s a rebate is about the same price as the cheap stuff. There is a difference in quality 

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1 hour ago, Alvin said:

Question concerning the ammo...…..is everyone using factory ammo?  How about reload/handloads?  Anybody try them at all?  I understand about shells going oval if left in the magazines too long...so is that why I never hear about someone using their own handloads in the VR80?  Will the handloaded shotshell not hold round enough to keep the gun going?

 

Your thoughts...……..

Been shooting mag fed for 7+ years now
28 round mags/all mags - ALWAYS loaded

Mostly AA's but lately Federal 100 rnd from WM
I can shoot everything from Universals to Nitro Gold
7/8 oz 1300 fps slugs

NEVER keep ammo or mags in a cooler

Anything else ? ? ?😁

Edited by toothandnail
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8 hours ago, Underwood said:

My tooth & nail trigger is on the way.. Im excited to try it out.. 

Ive been running walmart federal bulk 1200 FPS...  Mine runs 1145's and 1180's but those aren't always in Stock at Walmart 

Seems like Walmarts doesn't want to sell much ammo now.  I've found Academy has the best prices on light target 12 ga loads anyway.

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On 9/2/2019 at 8:41 PM, AverageJoeShooting said:

I've been running mine without the factory bolt release, almost since I bought it. Works perfectly 

Haven't looked at the release closely but is there a way to remove some of the release to clear the hammer?

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3 hours ago, AverageJoeShooting said:

Just take the entire thing out. It's a tiny threaded rollpin. A small flat headed screwdriver is all you need.

I understand just curious if anyone had modified the hammer or bolt lock to get more clearance so the hold open still worked?

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On 9/2/2019 at 11:13 AM, BSE said:

Is it possible that with the lead on the piston and gas block, plus with the retaining nut loosening up, that the bolt didn't fully go forward, thus the misfire and the lack of the primer being touched? Other ideas as to what happened? I've never had a firearm work for 50 or so rounds and then just go "click." 

 

Thanks

Yeah, it's possible that's the issue.

The bolt carrier or whatever you want to call it, part 44 according to the instruction manual, is what the gas piston bits push on to cycle the gun.  The bolt carrier thing also blocks the firing pin from being struck when its out of battery.

 

So if your gas port was full of lead and preventing the gas piston from seating all the way then that could also stop the bolt carrier from going all the way forward and the hammer would strike the carrier rather than the firing pin.

 

Could be other things too, some bit of crud stuck in the bolt and locking the firing pin solid or a canted / messed up bolt release but given the current known issue of lead fouling of the gas port and piston, I'd just start with that.

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On 9/2/2019 at 2:13 PM, BSE said:

I just purchased a VR80 yesterday and took to the range today. Shot approximately 50 rounds of Winchester Super X 1 oz. slugs (2.75", 1,600 FPS) using the "light load" piston with a few failures to feed. Then something strange happened--I would shoot, the gun cycles, I would squeeze the trigger again and just hear a "click" and no fire. Ejected the slug and looked at the primer--didn't looked like it was even struck. Tried again, and ultimately got it to shoot but then the very next shot the same misfire would happen. I started to hand feed rounds into the ejection port and same thing--click but no boom, primer did not look like it was even struck. I eventually gave up since I could not get the gun to fire.

 

I thoroughly cleaned the VR80 when I got home and was surprised at the amount of lead on the piston and inside the gas block. There was so much I had to use a brass punch to separate the piston from the gas block--I couldn't remove it by hand. Also the gas retaining nut was slightly loose. The bolt and firing pin all seemed fine and all parts seemed to move freely.

 

Is it possible that with the lead on the piston and gas block, plus with the retaining nut loosening up, that the bolt didn't fully go forward, thus the misfire and the lack of the primer being touched? Other ideas as to what happened? I've never had a firearm work for 50 or so rounds and then just go "click." 

 

Thanks

Did you clean the gun first or just load up and go? When I got mine, I took everything apart. And I found metal chips throughout it along with a bunch of thick black sludge. Don’t let the quart of oil covering everything fool you. I’d break it completely down, clean everything, and start again. I’d also just run a bunch of junk birdshot through it for more brake-in. Mine didn’t like the cheap crap at first but neither did I, so me and a buddy took turns loading mags and shooting a lot of FTF, FTE, until it grew to like the cheap stuff. Then it shoots everything. Also make sure your gas ports inside the barrel don’t have any metal hanging inside the holes or barrel. You may be getting a lead cheese grater affect going on. 

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