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EGW Igniti0n Kits


DVC502

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Now I know EGW makes top notch parts so that is not the question just wondering with upgrading everything in my 40 cal STI Trojan is really going to be any better then a good trigger job with the stock parts 

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42 minutes ago, Shadyscott999 said:

Your new trigger job will last much longer with the EGW parts.  

I've never been able to get a nice smooth trigger job to last with STI parts.

EGW parts have lasted 10's of thousands of rounds without problems

Well worth the investment!

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I’ve done and had done for me numerous trigger jobs using Stock STI parts, EGW, and Extreme Engineering components. All have held without following and are set around 1.75-2.25#. When I’m dry-firing, the aftermarket parts feel a little crisper and nicer...when the timer goes off...there’s no difference in times or hits...for me. YMMV

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If you are replacing parts in your Trojan, why would you consider reusing MIM parts?  EGW makes great stuff.  So do others.  Just make sure that anything you put in that pistol was machined from billet or bar stock.

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I haven't used the EGW kit but I have used the SVI ignition kit and the trigger was outstanding as a drop in, felt like a factory Infinity trigger with minimal fitting. The only issue was the safety had to be fitted to it, otherwise it was drop in and excellent.

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The EGW kit is not a set of matched components.  They just take the required parts out of the respective parts bins and throw them together in a bag.  Buy from Shooter's Connection, or anyone else who has the parts in stock if EGW is out.  You get the exact same quality no matter where you buy.

 

BTW, that should tell you how really good EGW parts are.

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  • 3 weeks later...
1 hour ago, Yeti said:

EGW quality is outstanding.  IMO, the other top notch kit now is Harrison. 

Can't go wrong either way.

Agreed, I’ve got both

EGW has a race gun vibe 

Harrison has a classic, belongs on a fine 1911 look

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17 minutes ago, Wrathen said:

Is the EGW kit something a gunsmith needs to install or someone who is good with their hands capable of pulling off the switch?

 

to install it is just drop in. the hardest part is tuning the sear spring to get the pull weight to what you want

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Nothing for 1911/2011 is really drop in. I have always found some fitting needed. Usually the hammer and sear engagement is not even. This is why most its worth letting a smith install it if you are not familiar  with doing trigger work. Also the disconnector is very likely to need some work.

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2 hours ago, SWprotected said:

Nothing for 1911/2011 is really drop in. I have always found some fitting needed. Usually the hammer and sear engagement is not even. This is why most its worth letting a smith install it if you are not familiar  with doing trigger work. Also the disconnector is very likely to need some work.

cs0377.jpg

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Fo0,

The C&S kit is very nice. But I still dont believe in drop in parts. I have seen to many instances of sear and hammer not engaging evenly. The parts can be mated perfectly to each other there is no way to guarantee they will work in your frame. Brazos also sells a great kit.

 

 

Edited by SWprotected
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2 hours ago, SWprotected said:

Fo0,

The C&S kit is very nice. But I still dont believe in drop in parts. I have seen to many instances of sear and hammer not engaging evenly. The parts can be mated perfectly to each other there is no way to guarantee they will work in your frame. Brazos also sells a great kit.

 

 

I concur.  A proper, safe, and long lasting trigger job requires proper fitting to prevent hammer follow or even excessive contact between the sear and hammer hooks.  Get s yvapari sear tool from brownells and you can pin the trigger and sear together and even measure the angles with its built in microscope and ruler.  For under 200 bucks it's cheap assurance or just pay a smith to do it for you.  No good just throwing parts at something no matter who makes them.   Every frame is not exactly the same.

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