P320 X5 Thread

[Blaize]

7 hours ago, CDRNorth said:

Blaize,

 

That is really nice work.

 

Did you do any reduction, when you stayed inside of the OEM borders?

 

No reduction work while inside the borders. It is really think though, but you can still feel the grit very well. The borders for the OEM stippling is kind of countersunk into the frame, so when I did it inside of the borders, I wanted it to be flush with the rest of the non-stipled portion, if that makes sense. In other words, you can run your finger across the grip from where its smooth and where the grit is, and there is no difference other than texture, its all on the same plane. It makes for a really really comfortable feel.

 

Now on the picture below on the grip I did all the way, There is a bit of reduction, specifically i kind of squared off the front strap, ground down the little psuedo finger groove there, and took a little off of the backstrap. I also ground down all of the smooth transitions in between the OEM stippling so that everything was all flush. in other words if you ran your fingernail across all portions of the grip it was smooth and would not catch on anything. After that I then applied the grit. It came out really well. I tried to emulate the DVC grip shape from a 2011, and have to say it feels pretty close.

 

Lots of guys tell me it almost looks OEM, the ones I do that stay inside the borders.

[jaep1911]

Thanks for sharing your awesome work. It is inspiring. I should try your OEM look work.

 

I need to decide which grid size I should use. You said 60~90 is pretty aggressive. Would one finer grade (100~?) be too smooth/ close to the OEM surface roughness?

 

Cheers

[AmarokTactical]

Leaving the Sig trademark without the grit is a bit silly, given that it is one of, if not the most important contact point for most peoples grip. Also for long term use, I found 36 grit is the way to go. It will be a little bit sharp at first but it will stay grippy for a really long time. The less aggressive grits I found to fill in with dead skin, progrip and dirt and lose their grip much quicker than 36 grit. 

Edited May 27, 2019 by AmarokTactical

[Blaize]

 

55 minutes ago, AmarokTactical said:

Leaving the Sig trademark without the grit is a bit silly, given that it is one of, if not the most important contact point for most peoples grip. Also for long term use, I found 36 grit is the way to go. It will be a little bit sharp at first but it will stay grippy for a really long time. The less aggressive grits I found to fill in with dead skin, progrip and dirt and lose their grip much quicker than 36 grit. 

 

glad you think its silly my man, although if you handled one of my grips and shot with it, I doubt you would think so afterwards. The goal was for it to look OEM, and that little tiny half inch spot makes no difference whatsoever in how it shoots. Also, these have had the treatment for roughly 2 years now, and still feel very sharp. I shoot them literally every week at a match, a simple brush and elbow grease for a couple minutes every now and then keeps them brand new. It all depends on the medium your using to apply this, and judging by your pictures, you look to be using a clear type epoxy, which is not quite ideal. The silicone carbide will eventually work loose from this and will need to be reapplied, especially when run hard and used alot.

 

1 hour ago, jaep1911 said:

Thanks for sharing your awesome work. It is inspiring. I should try your OEM look work.

 

I need to decide which grid size I should use. You said 60~90 is pretty aggressive. Would one finer grade (100~?) be too smooth/ close to the OEM surface roughness?

 

Cheers

 

I have tried 100-120 grit, and its not bad, but much prefer the 60-90 for competitive shooting. It seems to be just about right for most shooters I've done these for, however its a personal feel thing. On my X Carry I actually use the 100-120, and its not uncomfortable to carry IWB at all. 

 

 

The other thing that really determines how these feel, is what you use to do it with, and how you apply it. When you mix this stuff and use a traditional 5 minute type clear epoxy, it does not work quite as well. Therefore in my experience, there is somewhat of a less is more approach in regards to the grade of grit used.

 

Here is Another I have done, the owner likes it very much also. It's all about keeping the factory lines in these pistols, and simply enhancing what is there.

[dansedgli]

Which epoxy do you use?

[AmarokTactical]

With over 20k rounds through the X5 with this grip, and almost daily dry fire, it is still holding up fantastically. All it needs is an occasional toothbrush cleaning and it stays fresh as the first day I did it. And I used a white, marine epoxy that shows no signs of losing grit. I understand some people have soft hands or want a "pretty" grip that looks nice... but I'm all about function over form and the grip that a full coating of 36 grit silicon carbide provides just can't be matched by anything other than a PT Evo or similar aggressive steel grip on a 2011. 

[Blaize]

34 minutes ago, AmarokTactical said:

With over 20k rounds through the X5 with this grip, and almost daily dry fire, it is still holding up fantastically. All it needs is an occasional toothbrush cleaning and it stays fresh as the first day I did it. And I used a white, marine epoxy that shows no signs of losing grit. I understand some people have soft hands or want a "pretty" grip that looks nice... but I'm all about function over form and the grip that a full coating of 36 grit silicon carbide provides just can't be matched by anything other than a PT Evo or similar aggressive steel grip on a 2011. 

 

 To each their own buddy, you sound like quite the badass. Some people want a grip that doesn't look like a two year old smeared putty and glitter all over, but looks great AND is functional.

I bet that PT Evo grip looks pretty

 

[CDRNorth]

 Blaize,

 

Thanks for the detailed response.

 

I have been reticent to do my own, due to having to reduce the grip to maintain the current dimensions. So I like the idea of using a more conservative size granulated and reducing the smooth areas to match the textured sections.

 

With that in mind, if you don't  mind... what grit sanding wheels and/or paper do you use?

 

Epoxy type, etc... 

 

Also, what do you charge for a full grip job with beaver tail width reduction, like the new x-five compacts?

[Blaize]

1 hour ago, CDRNorth said:

 Blaize,

 

Thanks for the detailed response.

 

I have been reticent to do my own, due to having to reduce the grip to maintain the current dimensions. So I like the idea of using a more conservative size granulated and reducing the smooth areas to match the textured sections.

 

With that in mind, if you don't  mind... what grit sanding wheels and/or paper do you use?

 

Epoxy type, etc... 

 

Also, what do you charge for a full grip job with beaver tail width reduction, like the new x-five compacts?

 

For epoxy, here is the secret

 

JB Weld!

 

yes the regular two part that comes in the red and black tubes. Mix them together and use a paint brush to LIGHTLY coat where you want the grit to stick, by light I mean apply some and spread it, until the gray just covers where you want it to, then let it sit there a couple minutes. It will kind of “set” and self level and smooth itself out very nice. After this, I just sprung the grit on a piece of paper towel or the like, and roll the grip over the grit. Just like you would do in kindergarten for an art project. After that let it dry completely for usually about 12 hours. Take a brush and just brush away the excess grit. 

 

The JB weld dried very hard, it’s like metal, you can even mill it. So it doesn’t take much to let the silicon carbide kind of “stand on top of it” so to speak, this is what makes it feel like a much more aggressive grit than it is. In the softer epoxy and such, it kind of embeds itself in there a little more, so what you feel isn’t as aggressive and you need a more coarse grit, like out tactical friend a few posts above has.  

 

Oh oh forgot to add, I do not sand where the OEM texturing is, it does a great job of holding the in weld in place. Also any excess outside of the border wipes off easy. Just go slow, take your time and do one panel at a time 

Edited May 27, 2019 by Blaize

[jcc7x7]

You can also use a hair dryer / heat gun to smooth out the JB.

I pour mine on and tamp it down into the JB, just another method to get the same place. FWIW

[CDRNorth]

Thanks!

 

What grit sanding wheels and/or paper do you use?

[CDRNorth]

Thanks

52 minutes ago, jcc7x7 said:

You can also use a hair dryer / heat gun to smooth out the JB.

I pour mine on and tamp it down into the JB, just another method to get the same place. FWIW

 

[AmarokTactical]

While it may work, JB Weld isn't really designed to bond to plastic and the manufacturer doesnt recommend it for such use. You'll be better off with Loctite 2 part Marine Epoxy or even JB PlasticWeld if you want the maximum bond. 

[jcc7x7]

5 minutes ago, CDRNorth said:

Thanks!

 

What grit sanding wheels and/or paper do you use?

I don't use anything but alcohol to clean the grip and scotch brite to rough it up a bit then re alcohol it.

I want my grip bigger so I don't take anything off.

I run a tape line around it leaving the beavertail bare so I can slide my hand in during the draw.

then Dremel a line with an 1/8" round bit and that's it.

 

As far as JB being compatible, you'll have to argue with someone else twenty plus years of using it on Glocks.

M&P's and Plastic SIG 250's and 320's tells me it works and stays in place.

 

Prefer to share info that works and leave it at that, boomer has a great site if you want to argue! LOL

[Blaize]

I just use the regular sanding drums that come in a dremel kit if I do any reduction, but I use it sparingly. Then do the rest by hand with various grips.

 

and as for the JB weld not working, well if you say so. Tons of experience and others just like me say otherwise. Your marine epoxy is too thin and runny, which is why I keep telling you that’s why you have to use such a course grit to get the desired effect. No it does not bother my hands the least trust me, I lift several hundred pounds weekly in a Texas Bar for deadlifting, go put your hands on one of those and let me know how it feels, which brings up a good point.

 

this silicon carbide is great, but in no way substitutes grip strength, which is what ultimately matters. The carbide is strictly there for a little extra traction, it is not going to magically super glue the gun in your hand. If you don’t have a good grip already (which we all know if the most important factor in shooting a handgun), then strengthen it up!

this is not pointed at anyone directly FYI.

[CDRNorth]

Thanks for the information, guys. It is greatly appreciated.

[thormx538]

Anyone know offhand what the screw pitch/length for the magwell is? I stripped mine and had to drill it out.

[BamaBrad]

I have done quite a few..... done it with just staying inside of the OEM borders, and also covered the whole grip.

Looks really good. Appreciate the information.

[gmshtr]

Hello all,

 

I'll be putting together a detailed product video very soon that will be loaded onto the Sig website.  It should address most of the questions and concerns out there.  Otherwise, I'm happy to offer answers...preferably after the product ships.  Thanks for everyone's patience.  

[Blaize]

2 hours ago, gmshtr said:

Hello all,

 

I'll be putting together a detailed product video very soon that will be loaded onto the Sig website.  It should address most of the questions and concerns out there.  Otherwise, I'm happy to offer answers...preferably after the product ships.  Thanks for everyone's patience.  

 

What products are you talking about ?

[Solairefastora]

18 minutes ago, Blaize said:

 

What products are you talking about ?

I would assume he's talking about the reveal of the P320 X-Five Legion.

[dansedgli]

Is the chamber supported? 

[jcc7x7]

Plenty of support in the current chamber for properly loaded and properly sprung x-5/320's

[dansedgli]

Sorry, I should have been more clear, I forgot I was on the internet. 

 

Is the chamber FULLY supported, like CZ's, decent 1911's, glocks etc.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[rocket99]

Chamber is fine just how it is SMH


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk