himurax13 Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 All but one of my CZ's are reamed. I keep that one as is for load testing for my friends who are too scared to ream theirs, lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IHAVEGAS Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 So far with an SP01 and CTS LS, the only oal issues I've had were ftf's from loading too short. The guns just didn't like 147 grain sns bullets at 1.135. The guns both like the same bullet at 1.15-1.16 (target is 1.15 but measured is 1.149-1.158) and everything else I have tried with them. Looks like you can ream with no ill effects, but my guns are in the 'it works well so don't screw with it' catagory until something changes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eerw Posted October 30, 2015 Share Posted October 30, 2015 See no need to ream. Load MG out to 1.140 with 147. Actually shoot 124jhp at 1.125 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corny Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 I load MG 124 gr jhp. 1.125 is a tad long for my CZ Shadow SAO. 1.110 to 1.115 is my COAL. I have some factory loads Freedom Ammunition and the COAL is 1.080. They are plenty accurate. My SP01 is reamed and is very accurate. Your choice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chipu12 Posted November 6, 2015 Share Posted November 6, 2015 Are they any places that rent reamers for diy or you must use a gunsmith for the job? Thanks Chip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msg73 Posted November 6, 2015 Share Posted November 6, 2015 There are some places that rent them but they're around $30 or so. Might as well just buy one for $70. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corny Posted November 7, 2015 Share Posted November 7, 2015 I had my SP01 done by Bevin Gram at Grams Engineering. $28.00, includes insured priority mail back to you. Did a great job. Grams Engineering 2435 Norse Ave. Costa Mesa, CA 92627 phone: 949-548-3745 fax: 949-548-8122 website: www.GramsEngineering.com email: teamge@gramsengineering.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chipu12 Posted November 7, 2015 Share Posted November 7, 2015 Thanks for the info guys Chip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vixty Posted November 7, 2015 Share Posted November 7, 2015 Where do yall buy your reaming equipment from? I have 4 that need done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msg73 Posted November 7, 2015 Share Posted November 7, 2015 I got mine from Brownells: http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/barrel-tools/reamers/centerfire-reamers/rimless-pistol-cartridges-prod40866.aspx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bowenbuilt Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 (edited) Another source is emailing Dave Manson direct. Just tell him what you want and ask any questions, he is quick to respond. You will need some cutting oil and a tap/reamer handle that will adjust down to a 1/4" shaft. I paid $40.00 for the last one I purchased a few months ago, they are cheaper when you cut out the middle man. david@mansonreamers.com Edited November 8, 2015 by bowenbuilt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
himurax13 Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 I have Manson reamers for the 9 and .40. They work great. It also helps to order a handle too. Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vixty Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 Thanks for the help. I emailed him and got the info I need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zhunter Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 Ordered one this morning, gonna give it a try Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zhunter Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 (edited) . Edited November 9, 2015 by zhunter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bzt Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 (edited) See no need to ream. Load MG out to 1.140 with 147. Actually shoot 124jhp at 1.125 The longest I can get out of mine is 1.101. Any longer and it hits rifling and sticks. Edited November 9, 2015 by bzt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ohsevenflhx Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 I have 2 TS in 40, so I bought a spare barrel just in case. I fitted the barrel, and it would run great sometimes, but would get some fail to feed jams so bad that I would have knock the slide back with a mallet, and block of wood. I load at 1.130 OAL, so ammo wasn't an issue. It would plunk test everything fine. I dropped the barrel off to get it reamed, and the gunsmith said it really didn't need it, but noticed it did take material off one side in the chamber, like it was out of round. I've easily put 1k rounds through it since with no problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vixty Posted December 9, 2015 Share Posted December 9, 2015 I went ahead and ordered a reamer today for my 3 CZ's and 2 stock 2's. I had some 124fp extremes loaded at 1.060 and they were still hitting the rifling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vtecpaoche Posted December 13, 2015 Author Share Posted December 13, 2015 I went ream crazy and reamed the throat on all the barrels for all my various 9mm pistols. They all now feed with the 1.16 OAL now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
open17 Posted December 13, 2015 Share Posted December 13, 2015 These reamers, do they affect headspace? Or just add a bit of bore to the rifling without touching the part that the case mouth butts up against? A chambering reamer will affect headspace. It cuts the whole thing-----chamber, the step the case mouth registers on, and a bit of the rifling. A throating reamer only cuts the rifling beyond the step. It increases the length of the leade----the area beyond the step where the part of the bullet beyond the case mouth lives. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biglou13 Posted December 17, 2015 Share Posted December 17, 2015 How much do you ream? How do you measure how far to ream? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neomet Posted December 17, 2015 Share Posted December 17, 2015 Other than to be able to load for multiple pistols without changing your press I don't see a reason to ream a chamber. Angus seems to have done fairly well shooting 1.1 OAL for quite some time. I can run Bayou 160s at 1.160 because of the ogive. Not sure how much benefit you would get reaming a TS chamber as the main limiting factor on length with them is the magazine which limits you to 1.135ish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biglou13 Posted December 17, 2015 Share Posted December 17, 2015 (edited) Ok primary reason I want to ream. Is longer bullets. Im primarily shooting cz sp-01 I want longer bullets because the deeper I seat a bullets the number of tight chambering/ failure to case gauge bullets goes up.. I don't mind shorter COAL. I do mind tight chambering bullets because of bludge. This tends to happen with specific headstamps. I refuse to cull. For example my current 135 RN coated, have a higher fail rate because of deeper seated bullet. Coal is 1.075. Occasionally Causing a slight buldge in loaded cartridge with certain headstamps. This buldge causes failure to case gauge, I now have to case gauge every round with this bullet. ( not happy to have to case gauge 100% of training rounds). My usual practice was to only case gauge 100% of match rounds, not training rounds. I'm told this is same bullet profile from many bullet mfgrs. I prefer the 147 flat point but have a quantity of 135 RN left. I do not use a FCD, I do use Dillon crimp in fourth hole. The 147 flat point seat less deep. And I get almost no failure to case gauge in these rounds. I will randomly gauge every 10-15 when loading. I refuse to cull brass it takes too much time. If I send my barrel out to get reamed do I give directions to how. Much leade is cut. Or is it a standard amount? Edited December 17, 2015 by biglou13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neomet Posted December 17, 2015 Share Posted December 17, 2015 That's interesting. Had not heard of that before. Thxs! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vtecpaoche Posted December 17, 2015 Author Share Posted December 17, 2015 I would send the barrel with a few different rounds. Preferably, send one with the longest dimension you would load. As for how much to ream, you can measure it. It really depends on the bullet and not necessarily the OAL. I found that I only need to remove very little rifling in the barrel. I did it in small phases. Cut a little and then measure. I usually cut until the round sits at the same depth as a factory round. I then ensure that the round drops free and is not getting stuck in the rifling. It's amazing how little you need to remove. Once I'm done, clean the barrel and re-assemble. Load up your mag with the dummies and see if there are any issues with feeding. Just make sure you are using a throat reamer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now