snipersyn Posted January 31, 2014 Share Posted January 31, 2014 I was able to source a M3000. 1303xxx. Required modification to fit my NC extension tube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse Tischauser Posted January 31, 2014 Share Posted January 31, 2014 I have a m2000. Like the gun but it seems like it cycles soooo slow. Is the m3000 any better? What improvements have been made over the m2000? I'm not familiar with the 2000 but talking to Mr. Kelley he says the 3000 is much improved. I ran .17-.19 splits with the M3000 last night without the hammer following. That's about as fast as I can run my Benelli especially at match speed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse Tischauser Posted January 31, 2014 Share Posted January 31, 2014 Here is some pics from our install of Taran Tactical's parts. The oversized safety and bolt release were easy installs as stated in Patrick's article. Taran's lifter took some fitting but functions and feels great. Oversized bolt handle had to be turned down just a bit, but doesn't require the scallop that is cut out on the factory handle. We will be posting install videos for all but the bolt handle within the week or so. Last thing to do is open up the loading port and run it hard at the match here in 2 weeks. Will keep everybody updated. sorry made me do it in 2 post That safety is tiny! And mine is really hard to turn off/on too. Did you guys massage that any? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heaman Posted January 31, 2014 Share Posted January 31, 2014 My safety seems difficult to engage as well but then again I don't have anything to compare it to. I wonder if one of the Nova nuts from the "Yes" guns would fit one of the "No" guns...or vice versa. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.E. Kelley Posted January 31, 2014 Share Posted January 31, 2014 (edited) Here is some pics from our install of Taran Tactical's parts. The oversized safety and bolt release were easy installs as stated in Patrick's article. Taran's lifter took some fitting but functions and feels great. Oversized bolt handle had to be turned down just a bit, but doesn't require the scallop that is cut out on the factory handle. We will be posting install videos for all but the bolt handle within the week or so. Last thing to do is open up the loading port and run it hard at the match here in 2 weeks. Will keep everybody updated. sorry made me do it in 2 post That safety is tiny! And mine is really hard to turn off/on too. Did you guys massage that any? The TTI Safety is a good fit. Edited January 31, 2014 by P.E. Kelley Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan N Posted January 31, 2014 Share Posted January 31, 2014 Here is some pics from our install of Taran Tactical's parts. The oversized safety and bolt release were easy installs as stated in Patrick's article. Taran's lifter took some fitting but functions and feels great. Oversized bolt handle had to be turned down just a bit, but doesn't require the scallop that is cut out on the factory handle. We will be posting install videos for all but the bolt handle within the week or so. Last thing to do is open up the loading port and run it hard at the match here in 2 weeks. Will keep everybody updated. sorry made me do it in 2 post That safety is tiny! And mine is really hard to turn off/on too. Did you guys massage that any? I noticed the tiny safely too. I worked mine back in forth for a bit and it smoothed out a little. It could still stand to be a little lighter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan N Posted January 31, 2014 Share Posted January 31, 2014 I am absolutely loving the hinged shell catch. It is a dream to load..... well it will be after I open up the loading port. It is also much easier to manually release shells (unload) than my VM. I think I am going to really like the narrow vent rib. It seems easier to track than the wider ones on my Remy's. The top of the rib is also flat and not slanted like it is on my VM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cajunfighter Posted January 31, 2014 Share Posted January 31, 2014 Here is some pics from our install of Taran Tactical's parts. The oversized safety and bolt release were easy installs as stated in Patrick's article. Taran's lifter took some fitting but functions and feels great. Oversized bolt handle had to be turned down just a bit, but doesn't require the scallop that is cut out on the factory handle. We will be posting install videos for all but the bolt handle within the week or so. Last thing to do is open up the loading port and run it hard at the match here in 2 weeks. Will keep everybody updated. sorry made me do it in 2 post That safety is tiny! And mine is really hard to turn off/on too. Did you guys massage that any?I noticed the tiny safely too. I worked mine back in forth for a bit and it smoothed out a little. It could still stand to be alittle lighter. The factory safety is pretty tiny but the Taran safety feels great. Its just big enough to disengage as your finger rides into the trigger guard without being too bulky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openclassterror Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 (edited) Just wondering- Can anyone who has a shotgun that DID fit the Nordic nut confirm if their original nut looked the same externally? I just want to know if their are any visual cues that we can use to ID the non-standard parts. This photo is the factory nut from one of the shotguns that did NOT fit the Nova-type nut. If yours fit a Nova, please post a pic for comparison. I am waiting for my distributor to send me a Benelli Nova Shotgun so I can compare the actual threads on the two shotguns side-by-side. trying to help people know what they need to order without playing the "Guess, and return if it don't fit" game. Thanks! Tom Edited February 1, 2014 by openclassterror Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bowhazard Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 My m3000 needed mods, serial 1247xxx. Fitting a kick-ez on it this weekend to shorten it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butterpuc Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 My M3000 has a serial number in the 1340XXXX series Here is a pic of my factory nut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse Tischauser Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 (edited) Here are the threads on my M3000 on top and my brand new super nova on bottom. The threads look to be the same. The difference is the unthreaded part at the end. I'm gonna chop my tip off tomorrow. Edited February 1, 2014 by Jesse Tischauser Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usmc1094 Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 Is the only difference the extra little bit on the end of the tube? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nheiny13 Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 Here are the threads on my M3000 on top and my brand new super nova on bottom. The threads look to be the same. The difference is the unthreaded part at the end. I'm gonna chop my tip off tomorrow. Jesse, don't you that chopping off the tip is a lot less painful when done at birth? Lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan N Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 Jesse, have you compared measurements of the major and minor diameter on those threads? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openclassterror Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 (edited) No the tip is not the only issue here. On the ones that don't fit the Nova nut, the threads do not fit. The unthreaded part at the end is smaller in diameter than the thru hole in the Nova style nut, and if you take the MXT tube off of the Nordic nut, the nut should thread all the way to the retainer. On the oddballs, the nut only goes on 2-3 turns and gets REALLY tight. You can force it, but the threads are deformed in the nut when you remove it. At least that how mine was. Actual measurement on Nordic Nut- ID of square thread- 0.980 ID of v-thread (for MXT tube to thread in other end)- 0.990 My Nordic nut had a groove between the two threads, about 0.100 wide, and deeper than either thread for relief. So, theoretically, if you removed the barrel and fore-end from the shotgun, and the tube from the Nordic nut, it should thread right through until it runs out of threads and bottoms out. The unthreaded stub on the end of the shotgun is SMALLER than the SMALLEST inside measurement on the nut. So, are the shotguns different, or are we fighting variances in the Nordic nuts? After I recut the thread pitch and depth in my original Nordic nut, it went right through with no issues. I never had to cut the end off the shotgun. Also, some have posted that they had to sand down the thread OD to get the Nordic to go on. I wish I could measure all these shotguns! Edited February 1, 2014 by openclassterror Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openclassterror Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 Jesse, if you have a pair of dial calipers, could you measure from the front of one thread to the back of the next thread on both shotguns and post the measurements? I don't know if I am explaining well so I will try to draw a stick drawing. -||-||-||-|- -||>|| ||<| this distance? -||-||-||-|- It doesn't have to vary much. If the pitch is off by .003, by 3 threads it will stop dead. Square threads have NO give. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ranger Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 I found a M3000 24 inch black synthetic stock model for $499 at the Gander Mountain in Opelika AL today. This was the only 24 inch model but they still had 26 inch and 28 inch models in stock when I left. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse Tischauser Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 My nova nut screws on my M3000 just fine and its tight. Ill post pics of those measurements and ill take a video of the tube not seating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openclassterror Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 Cool thanks. Would still like to know the measurements of the thread pitch and outside thread diameter too though if possible. The issue may just be one of tolerance. Perhaps nuts that fit EVERY nova only fit SOME Stoegers due to allowable size. I know the ID of my Nordic Nova nut thread was actually .013 LARGER than the ID of the nut that came on the Stoeger. Yet it still seized up, and recutting the threads fixed that. The unthreaded tip portion never touched on mine. Starting to wonder if the Nordic nuts aren't all the same. I am going to order another Nordic nut on Monday, and see if that one fits my shotgun without modding. Maybe we are chasing the wrong chicken here........ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan N Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 (edited) Cool thanks. Would still like to know the measurements of the thread pitch and outside thread diameter too though if possible. The issue may just be one of tolerance. Perhaps nuts that fit EVERY nova only fit SOME Stoegers due to allowable size. I know the ID of my Nordic Nova nut thread was actually .013 LARGER than the ID of the nut that came on the Stoeger. Yet it still seized up, and recutting the threads fixed that. The unthreaded tip portion never touched on mine. Starting to wonder if the Nordic nuts aren't all the same. I am going to order another Nordic nut on Monday, and see if that one fits my shotgun without modding. Maybe we are chasing the wrong chicken here........My Nova nut is exactly what you are explaining. The ID of the Nova is larger than the Stoeger nut. I think we have a pitch/thread depth issue.Bad part is that if it's the Nova nuts that are the problem, then that means the Turks are holding tighter tolerances than Nordic(USA). Edited February 1, 2014 by Ryan N Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RigPig Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 Has anyone run one of these long enough to start getting doubles? My BIL's Stoeger has gone into doubles several times during matches and practice. I would guess he's got 1k rounds or so through it. The internals are stock. Cleaning it seems to help but it doesn't take but 100rds or so for it to start doubling again. Almost like it's getting hammer-follow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amr Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 My stoeger doubled on me too. Happened after about 80 rounds during my first time out with it. I haven't got a chance to go try it again due to weather. My mag extension was one bought from the great Tom Knapp's website for my nova about 8 years ago. It came with a steel nut and threads on like butter. I am a little concerned on this doubling problem tho since it seems to be popping up on this thread. Any ideas or suggestions Other than a thorough cleaning and re-trying? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sschultz Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 AMR I bet your disconnecter is not catching the hammer everytime. I have a CZ that has a hammer and trigger close to the Beneilli after a a few hundred rounds it started to double and then it got to the point it would not catch the hammer at all. CZ sent me a new hammer and that fixed the problem. Schultz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openclassterror Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 My 11 year old son gets doubles when he shoots mine. It never doubles when I shoot it. I have a very weight-forward shooting style with shotguns, and I am 6'3",250. My son is 5'3" and about 110. He has to lean back to balance the gun because of the 9shot extension. Inertia guns can sometimes double if they are held loosely, with weight on the rear foot and/or by small framed shooters. Don't know if that fits the situation at all, but it is a repeatable phenomenon with the same gun, different shooters. On another vein, I caused mine to double for a day when I did a trigger job on it. I cut down the primary trigger hook and recut the angle to reduce the trigger pull, but didn't advance the disconnector an equal amount to catch it. If I yanked the trigger all the way to the stop the disconnector caught, but if I eased into the trigger it would fire, stall on the tip of the disconnector until the bolt slapped shut, then drop again. Always stopped after the second shot. I cut back the stop on the bottom of the disconnector to close up the gap and problem went away. Disclaimer- this is gunsmith-only territory here. If you don't understand the timing of the trigger mechanism don't play with it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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