Aircooled6racer

Hello: Clean the module with rubbing alcohol and Q-Tip. Also check the Areedondo hood to make sure it is not blocking the dot when moving the dot to the sides or top and bottom. You may have to trim the slot a little. I only use the hoods on small modules like the 4 or 2 on the C-More. Thanks, Eric

Hello: I had the same problem when I lived in Corpus Christi TX and Albuquerque NM. Use a larger dot module like a 8 or a 12 and turn it up. Turn it down for long tight shots and look through the dot. For my primary PCC I am using a Holosun 510C(thanks Rick) and I love it for indoors and outside. Small dot but very bright and crisp. Thanks, Eric

Hello: I think the PCC classifiers will make you classified 2 higher than most of your pistol divisions. So if you are a B limited shooter you will end up a Master in PCC from what I have seen. With some of these classifiers being so old and shot so many times certain divisions hit factors are so high it is hard to move up. Open is one of them and so is revolver. The true way to see where you stand is shooting a major match to see your percentage compared to the GM's. When you do that you can see that classifier system works pretty well. Thanks, Eric

Tim: Make a brass sleeve and solder the sleeve to the two springs. Sold my Tig welder a while back I can use the Mig instead. Your splice is working for me right now on the Glock and Colt mags. Not sure what I am going to do for the Sig MPX? Hopefully someone will come up with a drum for it that doesn't cost a ton. Thanks, Eric

Hello: Years ago they started to make high round count stages for carbine matches. Then they would put in the stage design that there was a mandatory reload or unloaded start. Every one then went to the magazine coupler route (a piece of wood and duct tape back then). I like the idea of a mandatory reload on a high round count stage. It kinda equals things out and makes it more challenging. For the Colt SMG mags I am going to go old school and weld two together. Thanks, Eric

Hello: Unless they try to load another one or two in there peening the sleeve into the throat. I have had to remove a couple of those that were hammered in there. Take all your brass and put them on a table open end up. Then take a flashlight and look for the step inside the case. That is the easiest way to sort the bad ones out. I think IMT makes all that type of brass and puts the headstamp on for the different companies. Thanks, Eric

Hello: I would get a lower that takes either Glock or Colt SMG magazines. More base pads are available for those. At this point that you are in I would get a dedicated Glock lower. I am using a Quarter Circle 10 Glock lower since I think they just have been making them a long time and have the magazine angle perfect. Some of the others not so much. I also have the QC10 Colt lower as well. The Colt seems to feed a little smoother to me but both have been great. The Glock mag lower reloads a little quicker but just barely. Thanks, Eric

Hello: I ordered a Hiperfire 3-gun last week from Joe Bob's. It should be here tomorrow. Happy days, a great lasting trigger under $150. Thanks, Eric

Hello: The Glock 33 round magazines are only 33 round with the extended Glock base pad. Take that base pad and they are just 31 round Glock 18 magazines like it says on the number ports on the back. Use the Dawson extended +5/6 base pads and they will turn your mags into 36-37 round magazines with no spring change. Thanks, Eric

Hello: Another thing with the Mech Tech is that reloads are super fast. You may want to look at a Glock or a 2011 one. Thanks, Eric

Hello: I have owned three of them for Glocks. I still have one, the others were sold to people that wanted them than me. They go bang every time and are just fun to shoot. They are accurate out to 200 yards since that is as far as I have sighted one in at. The recoil is more than a setup AR9mm and the trigger is not as good. Overall they just work. Are they the best setup for PCC, not really but they do go bang and are very well built. Thanks, Eric

Hello: I tried one today. Light trigger but has hammer follow issues if you try to go fast with it. You can't adjust the secondary sear engagement which I think is the problem. It allows you to drop the hammer to early giving light strikes since the hammer follows the bolt down. He is going to get with Timney to see what they can do. I'll stick with my Hiperfire 24C or 3-gun. Thanks, Eric

Hello: Why do you guys need 47-57 round mags anyways? I can shoot all stages with a mag that holds 36-40. Any more than that and they get heavy. Also there is always a place to reload. Thanks, Eric

Hello: Take the firing pin out and have a look at it. It may have a bent spring or a broken firing pin. I would contact Tim at Taccom and get a new firing pin if it is broken. Thanks, Eric

Hello: Remove the barrel and clean it. Or just shoot it some with your bullets. When I remove the barrel the zero does not change, at least at a distance of 50 yards for me. I use the Wil Schuemann method and don't over clean the barrel on my pistols or pistol caliber carbines. He says more damage is done by cleaning than just shooting them and he should know. A bore snake may take some of that out. Thanks, Eric

Mike: I told you that you would like it. Thanks, Eric

Hello: I bought the kit from Pheonix Trinity. It comes with the slide. Give them a call. I talked to Tiffany. Thanks, Eric

Hello: I have built a couple of PT setups now and I must say the quality of steel is terrific. These have been open pistols. Not sure if you are building a limited 5.5" or a open pistol? PT make 5" slides but not sure if they make a 6" you can cut down. For a slide I would go with a Caspian or Foster if not the PT. For a barrel I would try to get a Schuemann. EGW hammer and sear, ISMI springs, Dawson firing pin, and safeties you like. Thanks, Eric

Hello: I use a 4MOA dot for shooting indoors. Just a little better for my eyes. Thanks, Eric

Hello: Move the C-More back so it is closer to the pivot point. Cheely setback mount is a nice one to use and also his 90 degree mount. One thing with the upright mount is the hold over on close targets where the 90 degree mount you don't have to worry about that. I like both and use both on my open pistols. I am a fan of the C-More slide ride since they keep on working for me. Thanks, Eric

Hello: Check the crimp on your reloads. I have seen some reloads on some PCC's that get either bullet setback or the bullet moves forward since they don't have enough crimp to hold the bullet in place. Others will be able to hear it as you shoot. Thanks, Eric

Hello: Get the 6MOA dot plastic standard model. Do yourself a favor and get the American Defense mount for it. Costs a little more than the C-More mount but it is way better built. The other bonus is that you can remove it when you clean your PCC and reattach it without loosing zero. Another option to look at is the Holosun 510C. I bought one and really like it. I think a new model is coming out so you maybe able to find one for just over $200. Thanks, Eric

Hello: Get a 12 gauge swab and coat it with lithium grease. Swab it in the tube area then remove and that should make it easier to keep clean. Or just use a 16" full length barrel Thanks, Eric

Hello: The first shot maybe off since the first round may not be going into battery the same way as the others after the first shot. Pull the slide back all the way to the back for the first shot, don't just drop the slide with the slide stop. See if that makes any difference? Thanks, Eric

Hello: I know in 40 S&W that Tite Group is more accurate than N320. I have not tested both in 9mm. N320 is clean burning for sure but costs twice as much as Tite Group. N320 can also very a lot from lot to lot. Not sure why but it does. Thanks, Eric