Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'cleaning'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • FAQs & News
    • Visitors & New Member Info
  • BEginners
    • Introduce Yourself
    • Miscellaneous BEginners
  • Shooting
    • Handgun Techniques
    • Stage Comments or Questions
    • Training Techniques
    • Tips for Improvement
    • Skills
    • Mental Conditioning
    • Zen
    • Little things I've Noticed
    • Match Screw-ups
  • Technical
    • Factory Pistols
    • 1911-style Pistols
    • Open Pistols
    • Pistol Caliber Carbine
    • Gear & Accessories
    • General Reloading
    • Gun Springs
    • General Gunsmithing
  • Shooting Sports & Travel
    • Travel, Locations, Ranges, etc.
    • Match Announcements - Pistol Only - USPSA, IPSC & Misc.
    • USPSA/IPSC Shooting
    • USPSA/IPSC Rules
    • Revolver Forum
    • IDPA Shooting
    • Other Shooting Sports
    • USPSA Classifier Scores
    • Clays
  • Match Management
    • Pre-match
    • Operations
    • General Match Issues
  • Multi-Gun
  • Miscellaneous

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start





Website URL







Real Name

Spam Bot Control

Found 10 results

  1. Just cleaned one of my compensators. Took me forever to get rid of years of foul lead and copper "deposits"! My main choice of weapon? the arredondo comp cleaning tool and a dentist cleaning tool along with some solvents. What's your weapon? Screwdrivers? Dremel with bits? solvents? Blasting? Beads?
  2. Bought a used MPX, I noticed first 3 to 5 inches of bore has yellow brass colored fouling. Not the normal copper color. No idea what it is. Maybe shooter before me was firing brass bullets, or maybe its brass from a cleaning rod. Doesn't matter, I want to get it out. Tonight, I attempted to clean the bore to barrel metal and ran into several issues. I think there are two options. 1) Ejector restricts in-line axial cleaning. I have to bend cleaning rod or the rod is gouged by ejector. Do most people remove ejector? Ejector is held in with 2 torx screws that aren't in the normal set. What size torx should I order? It's between T10 and T15. How much would you torque these to upon reassembly? Is it a bad idea to remove these every cleaning? 2) I thought about removing the barrel to have easy breach access, but was concerned with red dot zero shift, I'd rather not have to re-sight in or worry about my zero every time i want to clean barrel to bare metal. Has anyone checked for zero shift with a barrel removal and reinstall?
  3. Folks, I know I bring an often discussed topic back to light - but I think much has changed since some of the original threads on Ultrasonic cleaning liquids/solutions were posted. I just received as a gift, a Hornady Lock and Load Ultrasonic 7L cleaner. Now I am looking for effective cleaning solutions to use with it. I will be using in on several competition pistols that have been built - and thus contain stainless steel, blued steel, aluminum, polymer and plastic parts (S&W Victory race gun, Ruger Mark II Bullseye gun, M&P Pro 9L, and S&W 1911 9mm - all with various after market parts from Volquartsen, TandemKross, Wilson, Clark, Striplin, etc.). My research noted that several companies have various Ultrasonic cleaners and post cleaning lubricants. I would greatly appreciate any feed back on the associated products, their use and things to avoid. Will break this into two sections - (1) Cleaners and (2) Chemical Dryer/Lubricators. So, regarding the cleaning solutions - I was clean gun parts - cleaning every 300-500 rnds. The leaders I am seeing are: Crest Ultrasonic (Chem-Crest) Hornady Lock and Load Cleaner (One Shot) - Gun Parts Lyman Sonic Gun Cleaner Slip 2000 #725 Slip 2000 Ultrasonic Cleaner Shooter's Choice Ultrasonic Cleaner Microline 90 Brownell's Ultrasonic Cleaning Fluid M-Pro 7 L&R Mfg. Safety Weapon Cleaning Solution #215 Home grown - Ed's Red (Trany fuild, mineral spirits, kerosene); Simple Green; Lemishine & Dawn; Dawn only; Purple Power & Dawn; As to post cleaning "dunk" chemical drying/lubing, looking for water displacement and light "dry" films - not waxy or oily. I will still oil (rem oil) critical contract points Crest Ultrasonic Lube (Chem-Crest) Lyman Turbo Sonic Gun Lube Slip 2000 Ultra-Thin Gun Lube Slip 2000 EWL Brownells Ultrasonic Oil L&R Mfg. Safety Ultrasonic Weapon Lubricating Solution # 212 Home Grown - WD40; Mineral spirits & rem oil; Tranny fluid and mineral spirits/acetone; One Shot Case Lube; Ballistol; Thoughts views and experience are MORE than welcome.. Thanks!!
  4. How often do y'all clean your competition guns? I was raised "Shoot it, clean it, oil it, store it" but I hear many good shooters talk about .... well....much longer cleaning intervals. Just put oil it and go. What do you do?
  5. I got my rotary tumber in today and all I can say is WOW!!! Wow wow wow!!! The brass looks brand spanking new! It's sorta a pain in the A$$ to get the pins separated without a traditional case separator but completely worth it!! I can't say enough good things about it! Any one on the edege about getting one. DO IT!!! Pic. Before on left after in middle and new on right.
  6. I shoot a Glock 34 in Production and am thinking about trying some moly coated lead bullets. How will that change my barrel cleaning procedures? I've been using the standard cleaning chemicals... Used to use Hoppes #9... changed to Mil-Comm MC25... and have been using KG1 carbon remover for several years now... I assume I'll need to use something different or in addition to the normal cleaners to remove the moly and/or lead... Any help/suggestions would be appreciated...
  7. I just got a heat/vibration cleaning device that I want to use to deep clean the internal parts of my Glocks. I know taking out the trigger and other related parts is not that difficult but I wanted to see if this would work. Others who have used this device use either Simple Green or Hoppes #9 as the cleaning solution. Do any of you have any experience using this type of cleaner? If so, what do you use for the cleaning solution and how well does it work on internal parts?
  8. ok guys got a question I'm hoping someone can answer. How on earth do you keep the checking clean on the front and backstrap of your hard chrome, competition framed tanfoglio? I had this problem with my stock II. it was in a safe for a while (put away after being shot) and came out with bronzey/blackey looking rust stuff in parts of the checkering and little spots of pitting up under the beavertail. My new eric custom also has a small amount in the checkering and just below the backstrap checkering is the pitting marks again. Looking at others tanfoglios and they all have it except one guy. All those guys say it can't be cleaned. The one guy who's is clean tells me he chucks it in a ultrasonic cleaner every 6 months after stripping to a bare frame. I'd like to avoid that route. Someone suggested using a tooth brush and degreaser... didn't really work. I also tried brake cleaner and toothbrush.. didn't really work. I don't want to scratch off the chrome but it seems like something more drastic may be the only option. Another guy suggested regular white toothpaste and toothbrush (haven't tried that yet). So who has had this crap appear on your tanfoglio and then successfully fought it back? how did you do it?
  9. hi ya, so here I am after yesterdays steel match. I shot 200 147gn moly coated 9mm projectiles. I used 3.5gn of 700X to load them on my Dillon 550 press. now I have to clean the barrel, and it is tough going. the moly really gummed it up. I have had to try JB paste in addition to #7 and another lead remover, Ballistol too. Many strokes with bronze and steel bore brushes. and it still isn't clean. I will have to break out the Butch's and the Lewis Lead remover. any hints, or experiences? should I be loading more or less or different powder? how about I just drop the moly coated bullets and buy plated or jacketed? Much obliged, Max
  10. I recently took a close friends buddy to the range for their first USPSA match and needless to say he got bit by the bug and likely will be a competition shooter for a long time moving forward. Dave was not a newcomer to the shooting community only a newcomer to organized competition. Like most newcomers Dave needed loaner equipment and a gun for the match and I obliged with loaning him my 1911 and rig along with some basic instructions and a rundown of the commands to help make sure his first experience was safe and fun. A few weeks later at the next match Dave still using my gear wanted to repay me for the loaner kit so he gifted me a mecca of cleaning supplies. I was surprised as most cleaning stuff is quite expensive and his gift included bore cleaning solvents specific to high power rifle rounds to a staged cleaning system for pistol. I wasnt as surprised by his gift as I was to find out where it all came from. Turned out Dave is the son of the man currently running the show over at KG Coatings www.kgcoatings.com. KG coatings is a family run business that likely some of you are familiar with specifically their coating lines and their cleaning equipment if not allow me to continue with a review of the cleaning equipment I used. Let me preface my review with the fact that first I got this equipment free and that my review was unsolicited by KG, Dave or his family I simply want to provide my opinion on some kit and that that is all it is MY OPINION Im not an expert but I will say that I know a little about a little and I definitely know the difference between clean and dirty. Second alibi I know everyone is set in their ways on how they clean and maintain their gear and Im not posting this to incite a riot or trolling on my way is better than this way or the cleaning your bore is unnecessary and un-needed stuff either you like what I wrote and it makes you want to give it a go or you dont. What you see is KGs step by step pistol pack cleaning kit. It consists of a solvent KG1, a bore polish KG2, a degreaser KG3, and a lubricant KG4. I have always subscribed to a plastic/teflon brush, some Hoppes #9, a bore brush, a bore snake, lead away patches, and some Wilsons Ultima lube. KGS SYSTEM BLEW MY PRIOR SYSTEM AWAY! Here are a few before pictures. This is my 2011 after 3 matches and a practice session approximately 1000 rounds with nothing but a wipe down and a bore snake in between each event. The solvent was not as astringent or strong smelling as Hoppes but wow did it get the job done I took some time taking a soaked nylon brush to the external parts of the barrel the internals, inside of the slide, and and inside the frame. It collected and cleaned up all the loose dirt without fail. Second I took the KG2 Bore polish to my barrel using a nylon barrel brush and what usually takes me countless passes with a brush and lead away patches took only 3 or 4 with the bore polish applied. Next was the KG3 which is similar to break free to blow out any more dirt and cleaning remnants. Last KG4 to lube her back up and voila my 2011 was back to spotless and ready to rock! The best thing about the cleaning system by KG was how quickly the bore cleaned up using KG 2 it saved me at least 25 min of cleaning time. I am not a clean freak by any means and do not need my weapon cleaned after every session if Im turning around simply to just shoot again but I do want my gun clean enough to avoid malfunction. KGs system works and when I use all of my supply up I will be happy to buy more. Give it a try it might make your life easier as well! Here's a link where you can purchase direct http://www.kgcoatings.com/firearm-related-products/rifle-pistol-pack/
  • Create New...