Aircooled6racer

Hello: I have the EGW die that I just tried tonight on my old single stage press. It works great for all the Glock brass I have. I will have to try the standard brass to see how that works out. Thanks Eric

Hello: I tried the EGW "U" die and it works great. I have it set up in my old single stage press right now and it really works great. I still have to wait for the 650. Thanks Eric

Hello: If you are getting cramps then try taking some calcium tablets. Tums will work or a large glass of milk. Hope this helps. Thanks Eric

Hello: I have not used the Safariland 773 mag holders but have used some others. Can you install a piece of tubing to open up the lips so that you can install the mag easier. You can then use the thumb screw to tighten it down. Hope this will work for you. Thanks Eric

Hello: I am a Tool & Die maker/machinist and auto tech. I found the AGI videos great. With those videos on the 1911 they will teach you alot. The machining part you will have to learn from a night school class or maybe a machine shop can help you. The tools will cost you some money but if you buy good ones they will last a very long time. There are lots of books out there as well but I find for me the videos work great since you can watch them over and over and over. Hope this helps. Thanks Eric

Hello: I set the barrel up vertically in a vise as well even though I have a lathe. Light cuts is what you need to do and checking the depth very often. I also use a marker to mark the reamer to see how deep the cut is going. You can also make a stop for the reamer by using a piece of metal that slips over the reamer and locks with a setscrew. This will give you a positive stop. Just go slow and use lots of cutting oil and check often. Hope this helps. Thanks Eric

Hello: I have a STI I built with a Schuemann 5" clasic barrel. I load Precision 185gr with 4.1 Titegroup and a 1.180 OAL and it is around 172000 pf. I have friends who shoot the same load with similar results. Hope this helps. Thanks Eric

Hello; I know with 185 grain and 4.1 grain of titegroup makes major at 1.180 OAL. For minor 155 grain and 3.9 Titegroup at 1.180 OAL. Also 155 grain with 3.6 Titegroup makes minor at 1.135 OAL. Hope this helps. Thanks Eric

Hello; I'm still new to most of this stuff but can tell you from other sports I've done that you are the one that will know when your equipment needs to be replaced. It is totally a mental thing but will effect your shooting. I would look at what class you want to shoot then decide if you can afford the time and money to get where you want to go. Production with a XD would be a good choice, I almost did that but decided to do single stack. With a single stack you can shoot multiple classes. Saying that I also built a 2011 for limited. You will decide which gun to buy and still have fun with it. Hope this helps. Thanks Eric

Hello: I have a Kimber with an ambi safety and like it. I built a STI 2011 and used a wide ambi Ed Brown and love it. It is very wide for a great thumb rest and has enough meat on it that you can cut it back if you want. I had to cut the one side back to clear my trigger finger. I bought the stainless thinking I could coat it later or leave it plain. Hope this helps. Thanks Eric

Hello; I would also look into the lotions they use on horses and cows. They make some for saddle sores etc. Go to a Pet store and see what they have. Our Petsmart here has alot of horse stuff. You could also look at leather conditioner as well. It worked on my hands when I was cleaning the leather car seats and conditioning them. Hope this helps. Thanks Eric

Hello: I don't have the calender so yanking won't be a problem ;>). I also like the beam scales as well and have one of those. I also read about the primer mod and have the 223 case already and the tubing. I don't have the press yet from Santa. Thanks Eric

Hello: I'm still new to all this but I did not like the Tritium sights on my Kimber for outside use. The front sight I could not see very well. I keep the rear sight and changed the front to a Dawson FO and it works great. Hope this helps some. Thanks Eric

Hello: So I get this straight I will use the EGW "U" die. Then the Dillon powder die. The Dillon or Redding bullet seating die. Lastly the Dillon or Lee crimping die. Does that sound about right? Let me know. Thanks Eric

Hello: I use Precision moly coated bullets in 155grain and 185grain in a STI 2011. I can drill and tap a set screw in the Lee nut if that will work. Thanks Eric

Hello: Thanks for the info guys. I guess I'm on the right track with the EGW U die. I'll keep looking for the other dies shortly. Thanks Eric

Hello: On my SDB it meters very well. I check my loads more often than most about every 50 or so. It slows me down a bit but I have fun reloading. I also think the slight jarring of the press may help with the metering. Hope this helps. Thanks Eric

Hello: I am collecting the parts I need for a Dillon 650 that Santa is going to bring. I have a Lee undersize sizing die from EGW for the Glock cases. What other dies would you guys suggest that are the best for each station? This is to reload 40S&W. I did a search and found nothing. Any help is appreciated. Thanks Eric

Hello: I am still new at this as well almost a year. I also shoot IDPA and USPSA evnets. I would shoot your 1911 in both. I shoot mine in CDP(IDPA) and single stack(USPSA). I use Wilson 47D magazines 8 round ones. I have 6 magazines. I use a Unckle Mikes twin mag holders. I use a Safariland leather 560-53 paddle holster. This stuff is legal for both. The leather holster is not the fastest but I'm not either. It holds many 1911 pistols since you can adjust it. Blade tech sell a kit right now for IDPA and USPSA. The Kydex is a little harder on the surface of your pistol but it is faster (remember I'm still slow). I use a Wilderness belt with the 5 stitchs but would get the one with the plastic insert next time. Hope this helps and have fun. Thanks Eric

Hello: I would try a radius on each side first. If that does not work then try the 45 degree angle. If that does not work then do the rabbit ears. The ears tend to grab on cloths and get bent as well. Hope this helps. Thanks Eric

Hello: I think you found out the secret why me Dillon SDB must work so well. I mounted it to a 2"x10"x12" piece of oak. I then clamp that to a table. It works great I have not had the problems others have talked about. I think you are correct saying that it must be mounted firmly to make them work. Thanks Eric

Hello: I don't know about the painted grips but in the car world that is called bad prep work. You may want to call your painter and ask what he thinks happened. I had a car painted one time and the paint came off very easily from stone chips(race car). I asked the painter what happened and he said they got oil and water in the paint mix from there compressor and added a fish eye additive to try to fix the problem. Needless to say he had to repaint a couple of cars. Hope this helps. Thanks Eric

Hello: I had a dragging problem like you and it turned out to be the link pin. The pin was walking out and touching the frame slowing everything down. Hope this helps. Thanks Eric

Hello: I use the Wilson 8rd mags as well they work great for me. I have tried the Tripp ones as well and they work great (cost more though). Hope this helps. Thanks Eric

Hello: The way things are going it will pay to reload 9mm. Some of the guys I know have already started reloading 9 again. Also you can tailor your load for you using big bullets going slow or small bullets going fast. Thanks Eric