lroy

It sounds like your issue of not initially getting a good grip became more exacerbated once it was essentially locked into place with the grip enhancement. You had more room for forgiveness when you could slide your hand into the right position. I think just working from a timer, maybe set the clock to half a second initially and just work on hitting that grip every time. In my opinion, if you are going to use chalk in match, then practice using it during dryfire.

I've never used one before, but have seen a few guys in limited and open have them on their belts. Are they to speed reloads or simply to help for stages when you start unloaded on a table? Anyone use just a mag (not attached to a pouch) or would you always pair the mag to a pouch. Pros and Cons? I'm bored and in lockdown. Thanks

Mine did the same. Lost my belt during a stage and decided to try a ratchet. Problem solved.

They recommend being fairly generous with oil. I haven't heard them say anything about grease. I've ran molly grease in my honcho and had no issues though, other than on a cold day.

Anyone use snapcaps for their 2011? I have an extended firing pin, that seems to chew through the ones I picked up - B's Dryfire Snapcaps It just punched a hole right through the primer area after a few months of dryfire. Are these just considered consumable or is there a brand that holds up to use?

I had the PT alum magwell on my PT stainless grip. Fits without an issue. Swapped it to the limcat heavy brass, it required a bit of filing as the bottom of the evo grip blocks it in a few points. You can see in this thread, those (last trapezoid shapes on the knurling were the main offender.). That said, I now have a slightly used black PT magwell sitting around if you would like it.

It's pretty hard to get a good angle without unscrewing everything but hopefully this helps. You basically just trace out a straight line down then a 45 degree angle. Took me about 5 10 minutes. I'm sure you can trace it out if you want it to be cleaner. I just eye balled it. Works great though.

Ended up just taking a dremel to it. Was super easy. Thanks for the tip!

When you heat it up, do you just press the gun into the holster and reshape it that way?

Has anyone cut their kydex to allow for a thumb rest? Currently have a weber tactical for my 2011 and would like to experiment with adding a nitrofin. Is it as simple as marking where the area needing to be cut into is and dremeling into it? Id like to avoid screwing up retention and having to wait on another holster as best I can.

Thanks I'll check that out. Unless it's open and close, I can't move too quickly If I want to get decent hits on it. I try to be realistic with where I am currently at, then kind of half it under match pressure. I'm not sure what you mean by Doctrine? Can you clarify?

Thanks for taking the time to give me feedback. Really appreciate it. The scoring is more similar to IDPA, so it was 8 points down. More or less like 8 charlies. with 13 targets and 1 steel. The time was 13 seconds. I'll focus on getting the gun up and ready before I settle into position. That does seem like the biggest time sink.

I've been shooting matches about 6 months. This is my first time having someone record me. The resulting video is way different than what I thought I was doing in my head. I tried to go through it myself and see areas to improve, but would really appreciate outside feedback and what others think would be the most beneficial to work on for the biggest improvement. What I noticed was 1. Draw was slow - Roughly a 7 yard HS. Took too long to confirm. - My dryfire draws are fast, this was not. Need more practice live to reinforce confidence. 2. Don't move immediately after finished with target. I move like a boat trying to pick up speed. Work on really kicking off the ground to accelerate harder. 3. Don't move fast enough between positions. Once I do get moving, it's not at a quick enough pace. 4. Don't stop to engage position 3, move directly to port and shoot on move. 5. Shoot the port targets on move while walking to last position. 6. Be ready to fire once you get into position. Have the gun up and ready. Stutter step to slow down and steady sights before target becomes visible. ------------------ Those are things I thought I could work on. I'm not ultra confident in hitting partials on the move yet, hence my hard stops to engage, but it's something I would like to be able to do soon. I think the lowest hanging fruit would be to really focus on moving hard and being ready once I get into position, then pushing out hard to the next. It seems like that ate up the most time for me, but I'd really appreciate the advice of people with more experience.

They changed the production number to 500. That makes this allowed, no?

I believe they have some ready to go already.