regor

140s should not need tuning. I also get 23 rounds in my 9mm mags with OEM followers and Springer basepads, very reloadable. With the CZC followers I can get 24 but it is not reloadable and I will start a stage with a 170mm mag if I feel 23+1 is cutting it close.

Did either of the set screws in the trigger back in/out that influence pre/over travel?

What's the purpose of the extended battery cover on the C-More?

He posted in one of his Instagram videos that it was made by Brekke. "either way, having so much fun out here with @lyndaturnbull_ and our great squad and my @brekkecustom 9 major open gun" https://www.instagram.com/p/CGuS4ksJu2p/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

The 26 round CZ75 mag is longer than 170mm, if that matters. The 26 round Czechmate/TSO mag will not work in the SP-01.

Anyone have video of the stages in questions for those of us who did not attend nationals?

Last year's Open nationals was a good example too. Christian was 13 seconds behind JJ but had better hits and only 1 M (vs 6). Looks like Christian closed the speed gap this year and kept the hits high to widen the overall gap a little.

See this thread: The easiest route is to get the CZC "long" extensions and add them to 18 round CZ75 mag bodies, which should get you 25 rounds, but they aren't 170mm. @Ludde has some prototype 170mm extensions that he first showed off in the CZ Open Build Theory thread. Not sure if that is anywhere near getting a production run.

Done.

So I'm guessing my only chance of getting a second is finding a used one? Anyone have one they aren't using?

I bought a couple spare Czechmate optic mounts on here about a year ago, and one of them came with a mystery thumb rest. I would love to figure out where this came from so I can track down a second for my backup. It has a small nub on the top that sits in a divot drilled in the optic mount to keep it secure and I really like the size and the position is perfect for me compared to the factory thumb rest. The inside is not threaded but it fits a M4 bolt pretty much perfectly, though I did have to turn down the socket head to get it to fit. Any leads appreciated.

Has anyone tried the Henning basepads for the P320? Looks like they only make 140mm extensions for the 17 round mags.

Four >= 2%, so if you have any zeros they won't count for your initial classification. https://uspsa.org/pages/about/classification

Shot this today for a 92.1% in Open, which should bump me to M class. This is a really fun classifier and my second highest to date. 77 pts, 6.76 seconds, 11.3905 HF. Probably could have had a GM run but fumbled the reload pretty badly.

I take the upper off and barrel out of my primary probably every ~3k rounds and wipe the old grease and oil off mating surfaces and reapply. I also scrape away any substantial buildup of gunk in the trigger/trigger bar/sear cage area and anything near the breach face, then reapply oil and grease and put it back together. The last time I did this I also took out the FP and FP spring on my Czechmate and found that the FP spring was broken, so I will probably continue to check that going forward when I do my basic cleans. Only ever do deep cleans if I need to take the gun down for some other reason like swapping a trigger or internal spring. For mags, I'll brush them after a match if I shoot anywhere dusty/sandy, but most of the ranges I shoot at have gravel or hard packed dirt and mags usually don't get too dirty. When I do brush them I also give them a light external wipe down with oil to keep surface rust away.

I have found round nose bullets to be substantially more reliable in my Czechmate than JHPs. Even after tuning my mags I would get occasional nose dives from the first couple rounds in my big sticks. I also use the OEM followers because they seem to keep the stack aligned better as it crosses the border between the mag body and extension. I found I got 29 rounds in my 170s either way just with a little extra play, and I could squeeze 24 in with the CZC/Grams followers but it wasn't reloadable so I'd be loading them with 23 either way.

13# with a reduced power FP spring should light everything off, including stuff like the hard Wolf primers. 11.5# should be 100% with all the soft-medium primers (Federal, Win., Fiocchi), but I had maybe 1/50-1/100 light strikes with factory ammo like S&B.

At the four Majors I shot last year (A1, WA state, and two section championships) all had you go directly to the chrono after shooting the stage adjacent to the chrono, and give them a mag off your belt.

CO is the most subscribed division for the upcoming WA state championship, over 1/3 of the 157 competitors. Division Limited 26 Limited 10 1 Open 32 Production 7 Revolver 3 Single Stack 6 Carry Optics 55 Pcc 27 2019 match had more competitors (215), but fewer CO competitors: Limited - 50 L10 - 4 Open - 36 Production - 19 Revolver - 3 SS - 12 CO - 43 PCC - 48

Put about 500 rounds through it after re-zeroing and adding a nail polish witness mark and checked at the end of the match I shot this weekend and it was still dead on + no signs of a shift in the witness mark. 500 rounds is hardly a thorough test, but I am cautiously optimistic that it will continue to hold.

My latest load is 115gr Everglades FMJs over 8.9gr HS6, loaded to 1.155 which makes 171PF. 8.6gr made 165PF but was too close for comfort for me so I bumped it up.

Agreed, it is ridiculous that an optic with a MSRP of $660 does not have rock solid locking mechanism. In this case, having the elevation be entirely dependent on the tiny bend in a little piece of metal to keep it secure seems the opposite of reliable and repeatable. Vortex has external locks on several of the MRDs and are half the MSRP and 1/3 of the street price, so I have a really hard time believing that adding locks is cost prohibitive.

CZ Custom sells a 1/2x28 threaded barrel for the tactical sport that you could get a compensator for. https://czcustom.com/czc-brl-thrd-9mm-ts.html If you don't want to do any machining work that's pretty much your only option, as far as I am aware. If you can do some machining work then you could look at the following two threads for ideas.

Any video links to the potential classifiers from 2020 nationals?

Took mine apart and took the brass plate off from the rear. I’m pretty sure @Lastcat is correct that the brass plate is what secures the elevation adjustment. With it off the elevation spins with very little effort. The little threaded protrustion in the back center is the elevation adjustment screw. You can see a little nub sticking out of it. That goes through a small hole in the brass plate, and the bend in the plate adds tension to the elevation screw when the plate is screwed down. As far as I can tell that is the only mechanism for keeping the elevation adjustment secure. I added a little extra bend to the plate and it did make the elevation adjustment noticeable more stiff, though it still doesn’t have clicks. Be very careful with the brass plate’s screws as well as the screws for the optic baseplate; they are very soft and very likely to strip if you try to tighten them too much, which is unfortunate because it really limits how much extra bend you can put in the brass plate.