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random_guy7531

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About random_guy7531

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    Stanley Lewis

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  1. I suspected that there wasn't going to be an easy answer to this problem Ill definitely give download a try, but I'm not sure if I would 100% trust the results from that (e.g. downloading could also solve some other issue not related to my grip that may be causing this issue). I'll be sending the gun in for some TLC in the off season anyways, so Ill likely just ask for a quote to fit a shielded safety while its there. Thanks!
  2. Am I the only one who doesn't quite see what this brings to the table? I can see how perhaps some segment of the competition shooting population wants a CZ frame but with a straight pull 19/2011 style trigger, but you would be hard pressed to convince me that there are enough of those people to make something like this successful. This isn't much (if any) cheaper than a CZ TSO, nor a double stack Rock Island or Para Tomasie. If one wants a true 2011, edges are still available from Dawson for slightly more. I perhaps could have seen a market for a 2011 modular frame style gun that accepted CZ slides and firing controls, but not sure on what DW is offering.
  3. Hey all! So I've been having an sporadic issue in my transition to open. Namely, oftentimes (almost always on the first shot right after the draw or reload) the slide fails to go all the way forward into battery, and gets held up ~50% of the way forward (so the round is partway into the chamber, but not all the way off of the feed lips). The failure gets solved quickly (most of the time) with a quick forward smack on the racker. My suspicion is that my strong hand thumb is dragging on the slide enough to cause issues when the top round friction is at its highest (e.g. exactly in the scenarios where I am seeing problems). I'd like to try to install a shield of some kind simply to test out this hypothesis, but I'd rather not spend the $100+ on a shielded safety only to find out that the issue is elsewhere. I've seen some thumb guards that EGW and others sell, but most of the thumb guards I've seen replace the detent plunger tube, so I am obviously disinclined to go that route. Is anyone aware of a drop in thumb shield that is relatively low cost that I can try? Conceivably, I could also just try modifying my grip, but I would prefer to not out do so, as it would require me to also relearn my grip when going back to CO (my home division). Thanks!
  4. So I'm a bit confused here (and perhaps a bit dull to boot) - what tube and basepad are you running with this setup? You mention using the stock PPQ tubes, but the basepad in the pic doesn't look nearly big enough to get to 140mm. Is this nominally compatible with the major 140mm basepad offerings from TF etc.?
  5. Turns out, midway was having a sale on their nickle plated 38sc! I got the last of it they had in stock at 18 cpc. This is a fantastic idea - it does exactly what I was envisioning (much easier to search for red than lone cases with just a black band). I just didnt know the easiest way to go about it thanks! FWIW, I did ping Adam to ask how much a 9mm upper would be - turns out my patience for policing brass is much less than expected.
  6. Just took a look at the brass marker - that's pretty slick! (although spendier than I would have suspected). Do you find that the smaller lines from a sharpie like that are detectable? The way I had envisioned marking (and the way I saw some folks at BORCC last I was there) was with the full bottom half of the case being marked - from centerline down to headstamp. They were super easy to find even in the sand and dirt. Is that some open shooter being over the top dedicated with a pen? Or is there something similar to the DAA that does that? If not, Ill probably just look to get one of the DAA markers.
  7. Hey everyone, I've decided that next year Ill be switching from CO to Open. I've already picked up a used chaos to get me started, and I should very shortly have everything for my reloading setup. The main question I had was - how does everyone mark their brass to ensure you can easily find it? I know one person local to me marks the entire bottom of the case red, which makes it easy to find, but Im not sure how labor intensive it is to take a sharpie marker to entire case halves. I know some folks mark the primer face, and others used a sharpie around the circumference, but I'd be interested to hear if there is an easy (read: scalable) way to mark all of my fancy pants 38sc brass for recovery. Thanks in advance!
  8. I also had this problem with my Canik. The easiest answer (and what I ended up doing) was to lightly file/sandpaper the mag guides inside the magwell. Additionally, you should ensure that your mags aren't being held by the mag release. I did not have this issue, but some others I have shot with wound up with magazines that would be held in with friction from the mag release after being depressed (because the spring for that button is quite heavy).
  9. So I talked with some friends and evidently the slide release from the CZ RAMI is compatible with the Shadow 2 - I've ordered one of those and will give it a try. Otherwise, Ill bust out the Dremel and try GMP's suggestion.
  10. In general, I try to see if there is a non-destructive option before I bust out a grinding wheel and go to town . Point taken though, especially considering a new replacement is really quite cheap.
  11. Hey all - so between shooting area 1 and a class almost immediately following the match, I've wound up with a pretty nasty blister/wound on my weak hand just below my thumb due to rubbing from the slide release. I wanted to check and see if anyone knew of a low profile/different geometry release (or just a modification to the existing release) that can alleviate this problem. For whatever its worth, I am shooting carry optics so the replacement part doesn't have to be super functional/ergonomic like it would in production. Thanks in advance!
  12. I used a TP9SFX all of last season in carry optics. They work well, but the main thing you'll have to do is swap out some springs to get their full performance. In particular, since the recall back in 2017, the striker block plunger spring is obnoxiously heavy, so youll need to swap it for a lighter-weight CZ or Glock FP block spring in order to get anything remotely approaching a good trigger pull. Perhaps more importantly, the striker spring is way too overpowered. I broke 2 strikers in almost as many months due to it. The fix is to swap out the striker spring for a 6.5# Glock striker spring - haven't had any issues since then (although admittedly, I have since upgraded to a Shadow 2, so my Canik isn't getting ridden quite as hard as it used to).
  13. So I did read it, but I couldn't tell if that info was actually the truth (i.e. was confirmed by Walther), or was merely conjecture on the part of that author. I was leaning towards the latter FWIW considering the provided explanation. Ill admit, considering that the product hasn't become available, and it seems like references to it elsewhere from Walther are disappearing, I'm inclined to agree with you/the author. Still, in the back of my head I have a hard time believing that Walther - who has been going after the competition market heavily - would not perform that minor amount of due diligence/engineering/testing.
  14. So i would be very surprised if the trigger safety is eliminated entirely - the shoe clearly looks hinged, so its possible there is a trigger safety that is just difficult to see from the available public pictures. With that being said, back in march at one of our local IDPA matches, Walther came out and brought a Q5 SF for use as a stage gun. I asked their rep about this upgraded trigger and he mentioned the drop safety issue. His commentary was that the trigger would likely become something that consumers would need to send their guns in to Walther to be fitted for, although obviously that kind of thing is not set in stone.
  15. Do you know what your current trigger pulls at? Also, when did you get your Canik? If it was after the Sig paranoia induced recall (circa November 2017), then your firing pin block spring is likely entirely too strong, which causes most trigger lightening efforts moot. You should be able to replace it with a reduced power firing pin block spring for a CZ or Glock (something like this https://cajungunworks.com/product/2389/). I did not send mine in for the recall so I didn't have to make any changes, but one other shooter in my area did, and I was surprised how much better the trigger gets after changing that spring out. Other than the FP plunger spring, and swapping out the striker spring for a 6.5# glock spring (I use this one https://ghostinc.com/gho_6_5_fp-6-5-lb-super-duty-extreme-firing-pin-spring-for-glocks-gens-1-4/), I don't think any other FCG work should really be needed.
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