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About random_guy7531

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    Stanley Lewis

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  1. random_guy7531

    'Safe Action' Definition

    That is pretty much what rule says, but that's orthogonal to the question of what the definition of 'safe action' guns are. Lets consider the following train of though: The production list prohibits the inclusion of firearms that aren't double action, selective action, or safe action The HK P7 is on the production list, and does not meet the definitions of double action or selective action The HK P7 must therefore be classified as 'safe action' The HK P7 ALSO meets the definition of 'single action' (per USPSA rule - as all passive safety mechanisms are triggered via the squeeze cocker lever instead of the trigger (at least per top-of-my-head. I will grab my example from the safe to confirm at some point) There must therefore be some minimal set of criteria then which separates 'safe action' and 'single action' which is not related to the number of actions caused solely by the trigger press. What I want to know is - what is that minimal set of criteria? To make matters more interesting, consider the series 80 1911 - which has a trigger activated firing pin block. The overwhelming majority of shooters would consider it to be a single action firearm - but does USPSA? If USPSA considers the series 80 to be a single action gun, what differentiates it from firearms which USPSA has already deemed as 'safe action' firearms which only contain a firing pin block as their passive safety (e.g. sig 320)?
  2. random_guy7531

    'Safe Action' Definition

    During a discussion amongst some friends and I regarding interesting guns that we could use for a carry optics build, we were unable to find what the definition of a 'safe action' gun is. During my search of the rule book, I see definitions for 'single action', 'double action', and 'selective action' (,, respectively), but none for 'safe action'. This is important as the addenda to appendix D4 #19 specifically only allows "Double Action, Double Action/Single Action, and Safe Action guns". As a particularly thorny example, the HK P7 fits all of the definitions of a 'Single Action' gun per, as the trigger itself only performs one action (that being the release of the striker), yet it clearly must be considered a 'safe action' gun by the NROI due to its inclusion in the production list. The trigger in the P7 doesn't have a safety dingus on it like most striker fired polymer guns, nor does it add energy to the striker, nor does it disengage a firing pin block at all. While it could be argued that the existence of the squeeze cocker makes the gun a 'safe action' gun, no definitive definition exists, and that doesn't necessarily preclude the gun from still fitting the 'single action' definition. Thus we arrive at a dilemma: what constitutes a 'safe action' gun? And what separates the existing single action only guns from it? If a CZ Tactical Sport had a firing pin block, would it be a 'safe action' gun? If a 2011 had a trigger dingus a la the Hudson H9, would it be a 'safe action' gun? What would need to be removed from a PPQ, XD, or p320 for it to no longer be a 'safe action' gun? (Considering the sig doesn't have a trigger dingus, and the PPQ and XD don't have partially cocked strikers) Has the NROI made any rulings on this issue and I just missed them? Is there anything in the main rule book that I am missing?
  3. random_guy7531

    PPQ Carry Optics build

    I will admit - I'll be interested to see how this turns out. I'm probably going to ditch my Canik in CO for the 2019 season, and either a Q5 or PPQ build seems to be the most likely route I'll end up taking. Are you going to look to add the lost ~1oz back via a guide rod or some other means?
  4. random_guy7531

    So I'm going to my first non-level 1 match. Any tips?

    So this is the first time that I've used a chrono, so its possible I messed up. However, the fact that I got as much consistency between strings led me to believe that things were generally okay. My notes from the session looked like this: String 1 4 shots 1223 high 1184 low 1207 average String 2 4 shots 1236 high 1143 low 1204 average String 3 5 shots 1224 high 1171 low 1205 average String 4 5 shots 1246 high 1146 low 1202 average Also FWIW, these weren't taken with the UMC green box I typically buy. My LGS didn't have much green box in stock, so I got a case of the Remington military/LE training rounds instead (like this https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1019417668/remington-military-law-enforcement-training-ammunition-9mm-luger-115-grain-full-metal-jacket). I naively assumed that UMC and the training ammo were identical, but I am often an idiot and could certainly be wrong. In either case, is there a factory brand that is generally available that most folks trust to make minor out of a 5" barrel? I'm certainly willing to go get a case of something else to ensure I won't go sub-minor during a big match. At the end of the day, its not like the stuff I have won't go to waste.
  5. random_guy7531

    So I'm going to my first non-level 1 match. Any tips?

    So good news! I managed to get a hold of our club's chrono today and do some testing. Got an average velocity of 1205 fps with a low of 1143 and a high of 1246. I think that should give me a fair bit of buffer in case the particular chrono setup at the match is slightly different than the one I used. I would be interested to see what my gun does with other ammo now though....
  6. random_guy7531

    So I'm going to my first non-level 1 match. Any tips?

    This is all really great advice. Thanks a bunch! In particular, I needed this one: I was rather explicitly planning on changing out my striker spring due to known problems with the stock one breaking strikers (Canik TP9SFX). I will instead *not* be doing that, and it will have to wait until after the match. So I have a few follow up questions: I always shoot factory ammo - I lack the apartment space for a reloading setup so I'm stuck with what I can buy. Because of this, I never put my gun on a chrono before. Is that worth doing? Or am I safe in assuming that factory ammo should make the chrono? I typically use Remington UMC 115 grain FWIW. A bunch of people have mentioned to bring a chair. Is there one that most people like? I only have a shoulder bag so Ill have to tote a chair around the old fashioned way - I didn't know if there was a compact style of chair people like in particular.
  7. random_guy7531

    Pick me a non-comp gun

    This might sound a bit silly, but you did mention that it might be used for carry, so I'd actually suggest the VP9 SK or the PPQ Subcompact . I have a VP9 SK that I use in a local outlaw BUG match (which really just allows anything with a <3.5" barrel). I've found that shooting short barreled/short sight radius/small grip guns to be and enjoyable break from my normal USPSA stuff. Additionally, both the VP9 and PPQ subcompact versions *should* be legal in either IDPA BUG or CCP divisions (no promises there though, I haven't verified).
  8. So I'm going to my first "large" match in a couple of weeks , and I wanted to just real quickly pick some folk's brains with regards to what may be different at a level 2 match as opposed to the more typical club matches. Off the top of my head, my main questions are: Any gear or items that I should bring in addition to my normal stuff? Are there any rules that are usually lax in clubs but become strictly enforced at a level 2 match that may bite me? Any mental tips w.r.t. maintaining composure and focus over a longer match? Really, any general notes on stuff you may have wished you did/brought/etc. to your first (or any) higher level match is certainly appreciated. Thanks!
  9. random_guy7531

    Canik TP9SFX striker/firing pin breakage and spares

    I have a plain jane 4" PPQ, and from what I can tell, the mechanisms are identical (even if the spring tunings are not). At least, they are identical enough that the slides will mate between both guns, and will at least dry fire as expected. I have not attempted with live rounds, but I have no reason to believe they wont function together. The designs are actually close enough that I used my PPQ's firing pin in the Canik while I was waiting for the replacement. Now, the various springs are of noticeably different strengths - especially ever since the paranoia induced recall on Canik's part. My personal Canik predates the recall, and I never sent mine in, so I can't comment on what the newer ones are like. However I found that I liked the Canik trigger (pre recall) ever so slightly more than the PPQ's. The main thing I dislike about the Canik trigger is that the safety-dingus doesn't have the same geometry as the PPQ, and sometimes I fail to disengage it (particularly during one-hand shooting).
  10. random_guy7531

    Canik TP9SFX striker/firing pin breakage and spares

    Oh this is great! Previously, I was not able to get spares, so I'm definitely glad they made them available (even if they are a bit spendy). I have had some (admittedly - rare/sporadic) issues with going into battery - in particular after slide lock reloads - so I just picked up the 6.5 lb Ghost spring you recommended. Hopefully, that will solve most of my problems. On a tangential note though, I do see that Ghost also has some ~4lbs striker springs available - has anyone tried those springs in a Canik or Q5? Do those lighter springs work better at all? I've never actually tried to tune springs on one of my firearms before so this is a bit of a new experience for me....
  11. random_guy7531

    Canik TP9SFX striker/firing pin breakage and spares

    So my replacement parts just came in from Century (as well as my snap caps). Hopefully this issue doesn't persist, but I am concerned that the new striker assembly I was sent has a noticeably stronger spring than the one I removed. Is this to be expected? Will it wear in eventually as I break in the new component? If not, is there an alternative spring I should look to get and use? Thanks!
  12. random_guy7531

    Walther Q5 Trigger Guard Width

    I don't have a Q5, but I do have a standard PPQ. I don't think the frames are different between the two (or at least they certainly did not seem to be from when I handled the Q5). On my PPQ, the trigger guard is 15.5mm +/- 0.1 wide except for back near the grip and undercut, where it widens out. At the farthest back where I would still consider it part of the trigger guard (as opposed to the mag release scallop), it appears to about 26mm.
  13. Hey all, So today, for what is now the second time, I've had the firing pin break off the striker on my TP9SFX. Evidently, this seems to be a bit of a problem with these guns, and I am more than a little peeved that I haven't even had my example for a full year before having to replace it twice. Now, I assume that Century/Canik will replace my striker under warranty (they certainly did the first time around), but I wanted to check and see - does anyone here know of an aftermarket company making upgraded (i.e. more reliable/resilient) strikers for Canik pistols? I was looking around, and it doesn't seem like a titanium striker or similar is available. I don't even see anything for the Walther PPQ (which is 100% compatible with the TP9SFX). Additionally, if anyone knows what causes these breakages, let me know so I can avoid it in the future. Thanks!
  14. random_guy7531

    Canik TP9 SFX - Magazines Binding

    Hey all, just wanted to follow up on this thread and thank you guys for the tip. Took a basic harbor freight file to the inside of the mag well, and I haven't experienced any sticky mag issues since then. Certainly appreciate the help!
  15. Hey all - so I've been having a problem with my Canik that I haven't really paid much attention to until recently. Specifically, magazines tend to fail to drop free. They fall out ~2/3rds of the way out, but then bind right before falling free. It would be one thing if it happened only occasionally, but it has been occurring with sufficient frequency that I now have developed a bit of a nasty habit of manually stripping the magazines out. I am using both the standard magazines that came with the gun and the Century branded Mec-Gar magazines, and both appear to suffer from the failure equally. Has anyone else with an SFX (or other Canik) ever experienced this? If so, what did you do to solve it? I am hesitant to take a file or sandpaper to the inside of the magwell without more information, but if that's what I need to do, then so be it. Thanks in advance!