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random_guy7531

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About random_guy7531

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    Finally read the FAQs

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    Stanley Lewis

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  1. I actually did. I only had a small handful of Syntech (it was effectively leftover from when I was shooting factory stuff pre-pandemic), and because the MD had me submit a chrono set from every loading, I elected to instead go through the Syntech first and leave my 'nats' load for last. I essentially just reversed the order I originally intended to use the batches.
  2. Just following up on this thread. Had a chat with the MD about how he wanted me to proceed, and the call was to submit 8 rounds from each bunch. They pulled three bullets and fired a total of 9 rounds (3 for each load). Everything passed, but I got to spend a fair bit of time at the chrono table that's for sure :).
  3. FWIW, I've been to some matches where you are allowed to present chrono rounds but they must come from your belt, and you had to go directly from a stage you just shot to chrono. In those matches, I've also seen a much higher preponderance of officials tagging folks for random checks after they get done with a stage. Calling for calibration seemed to be a fast way to earn yourself and extra chrono trip.
  4. Some good responses here - my current plan is to just present two baggies of 8 rounds to the chrono collection guy when asked. Ill also reach out to the match MD and see his preferred solution (realistically, that's probably where I should have started ). I'll make sure to follow up here with how everything got handled.
  5. So I will be shooting a level 2 this upcoming weekend. Unfortunately, due the ongoing projectile/primer/etc. shortage, I have multiple different loads that I'll be running. I have high confidence that all will meet the minor specs for CO, but I am unsure about how folks think I should address giving rounds to chrono, what I should declare, etc. For reference, I will be running 3 different types of loads (really only 2 unless things go way south). I have ~150 rounds of 124gr Speer TMJ loadings (which have already passed chrono at Area 5 and MI Sectional), and an additional ~150 rounds of 124gr
  6. Apologies for the thread necro, but I figured it would be a good idea for me to follow up with my results post diagnosis - even if only so other folks have a resource to turn to. It turned out that my issues weren't related to my grip or to mag tension/resistance. My problems ended up being ejector related - the previous case was not properly clearing the ejection port and occasionally prevented proper feeding. My open gun runs an aftec extractor, and a replacement of the tension springs was sufficient to alleviate the problem. While I didn't really get to run a real season with th
  7. I suspected that there wasn't going to be an easy answer to this problem Ill definitely give download a try, but I'm not sure if I would 100% trust the results from that (e.g. downloading could also solve some other issue not related to my grip that may be causing this issue). I'll be sending the gun in for some TLC in the off season anyways, so Ill likely just ask for a quote to fit a shielded safety while its there. Thanks!
  8. Am I the only one who doesn't quite see what this brings to the table? I can see how perhaps some segment of the competition shooting population wants a CZ frame but with a straight pull 19/2011 style trigger, but you would be hard pressed to convince me that there are enough of those people to make something like this successful. This isn't much (if any) cheaper than a CZ TSO, nor a double stack Rock Island or Para Tomasie. If one wants a true 2011, edges are still available from Dawson for slightly more. I perhaps could have seen a market for a 2011 modular frame style gun that accepted CZ s
  9. Hey all! So I've been having an sporadic issue in my transition to open. Namely, oftentimes (almost always on the first shot right after the draw or reload) the slide fails to go all the way forward into battery, and gets held up ~50% of the way forward (so the round is partway into the chamber, but not all the way off of the feed lips). The failure gets solved quickly (most of the time) with a quick forward smack on the racker. My suspicion is that my strong hand thumb is dragging on the slide enough to cause issues when the top round friction is at its highest (e.g. exactly in the scenarios
  10. So I'm a bit confused here (and perhaps a bit dull to boot) - what tube and basepad are you running with this setup? You mention using the stock PPQ tubes, but the basepad in the pic doesn't look nearly big enough to get to 140mm. Is this nominally compatible with the major 140mm basepad offerings from TF etc.?
  11. Turns out, midway was having a sale on their nickle plated 38sc! I got the last of it they had in stock at 18 cpc. This is a fantastic idea - it does exactly what I was envisioning (much easier to search for red than lone cases with just a black band). I just didnt know the easiest way to go about it thanks! FWIW, I did ping Adam to ask how much a 9mm upper would be - turns out my patience for policing brass is much less than expected.
  12. Just took a look at the brass marker - that's pretty slick! (although spendier than I would have suspected). Do you find that the smaller lines from a sharpie like that are detectable? The way I had envisioned marking (and the way I saw some folks at BORCC last I was there) was with the full bottom half of the case being marked - from centerline down to headstamp. They were super easy to find even in the sand and dirt. Is that some open shooter being over the top dedicated with a pen? Or is there something similar to the DAA that does that? If not, Ill probably just look to get one of the DAA
  13. Hey everyone, I've decided that next year Ill be switching from CO to Open. I've already picked up a used chaos to get me started, and I should very shortly have everything for my reloading setup. The main question I had was - how does everyone mark their brass to ensure you can easily find it? I know one person local to me marks the entire bottom of the case red, which makes it easy to find, but Im not sure how labor intensive it is to take a sharpie marker to entire case halves. I know some folks mark the primer face, and others used a sharpie around the circumference, but I'd be
  14. I also had this problem with my Canik. The easiest answer (and what I ended up doing) was to lightly file/sandpaper the mag guides inside the magwell. Additionally, you should ensure that your mags aren't being held by the mag release. I did not have this issue, but some others I have shot with wound up with magazines that would be held in with friction from the mag release after being depressed (because the spring for that button is quite heavy).
  15. So I talked with some friends and evidently the slide release from the CZ RAMI is compatible with the Shadow 2 - I've ordered one of those and will give it a try. Otherwise, Ill bust out the Dremel and try GMP's suggestion.
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