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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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    Atlanta, GA
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    Thomas Koh

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  1. I would say the answer depends on where you are as a shooter - B and below shooters will have different high payoff training areas for live fire, than an A trying to break in to M or higher. It sounds like you've already put a lot of thought in to it so I'll skip to the M/GM level stuff. What may help is looking a little broader for what to spend your training rounds on. Look at your Level 2/3 match stages and compare them in a broad sense to where you want to be - note, this really only works if you can find some footage of some folks, and you have your own. If you are chasing a GM level shooter who is pacing you by 2 seconds in an average long course - look at exactly where that time is spent. Transitions may be the highest pay off for you to close the gap but you may be surprised that its something else. What I've seen personally trying to close those gaps are 1) efficency in movement, i.e. losing time getting in to the position and getting shots off, and 2) total time in 'tough' engagements -i.e. hard leans, complex techincal swingers or other moving targets, etc.
  2. Hey partner, of note, I take note of multiple sub-times that make what most people call 'draw time.' There is the time to get the gun out of the holster and presented - this is obviously different with wrists below belt, wrists above shoulders, or some other wacky start like hands on marks, hands in pocket with bullets in pockets, etc. The 2nd part of this is the time to first shot, which obviously depends on a lot of things. Most A shooters and higher will have decent and comparable 'draw' times, as in the first time I mentioned. Some pro shooters like Mason Lane 'snatch' their guns out which makes for a very first draw; others do a traditional draw. Either way, your draw time is most likely not where you'll get a ton of return on investment training wise. Just one opinion...
  3. Lots of great advice already posted - I would get good video footage of your runs and then also record the folks that you are using for base lines. Use your computer to do some analysis on the dead time in transitions - i.e seconds between your last shot fired and the first shot fired in the next position. There are some good freeware video editing software packages that can make this easy based on displaying the audio track which shows exactly when the shot is fired. If you're running the same stage plans as the other folks, you'll be able to see exactly where you are losing time. There is a temptation to haul between positions but the small amount of time you gain in really pumping arms and legs can be easily lost in efficency.
  4. Hey partner, I'm in Atlanta now but have family in Huntsville and travel there regularly. I shoot matches in GA and the ones in Birmingham - if you are ever shooting TPS in Bham message me or text me and we can link up - 706-329-6261.
  5. To add to all the things previously stated, indoor matches are a good way to get some trigger time under the pressure of a timer and people watching, but are not great predictors of performance in 'real' matches. As people have said, lighting, noise, percieved recoil due to gas, smoke, muzzle flash, all play a factor. Also, indoor matches are always low round count and generally have wacky stages designed to keep bullets off the side walls.
  6. Red Stitch for the win - I used to be local to the DC area and they provided everyone with new steel for big matches and refreshes - great folks to work with!
  7. The carbide grip job is worth the time and energy - it can all be done at home with a dremel and what you can get on Ebay or the local hardware store.
  8. Generally there is a fault line that is forcing you to lean - what helps me is using the fault line as a contact point for the leading foot and anchoring it to balance the weight shift. As such, during my walk throughs, I identify exactly where my foot will contact the fault line to set up for a successful lean position.
  9. A few things to consider - plated bullets don't work well at major PF velocities. That doesn't exactly explain your velocity issue but you may have accuracy issues. Did you chrony in low light conditions? If its not the chrony and environment, are you possibly losing powder out of the case? At 6.8 gr of N340, you should have plenty of room in the case but losing powder is one way where you can have inconsistent velocity.
  10. It depends on what you want to run out of it - the best part of a 6" ish range barrel is that you can use your other minor loads, i.e. for production or Carry Optics without changing load data. I had a 5.5" with pinned and weilded shroud by TACCOM 3G which worked fairly well, but in retrospect, I would get something longer around 8". One thing to think about as well is balance - with a full 16" or 14.5" plus yyyuge comp, the rifle is obviously front heavy. 8 + shroud seems to be the sweet spot for balance as well.
  11. I run the Hiperfire Eclipe with the medium return springs and it runs all of these 100%: Winchester Small Rifle Federal Small Rifle Fiochi Small Pistol CCI Small Pistol
  12. There have been volumes written on this so the only thing I'll add is for the extractor, there is a rubber ring that is included with the extractor spring and rubber insert. The one that came from Sig was orange in color; I used that and then when it was time to switch it out, I bought generic parts off Midway for standard AR15s. Keeping this spring fresh, i.e. every few thousand rounds, seemed to help.
  13. I bought a CZ SP-01 Shadow 1 Optics Ready direct from CZC; I found the plates I needed on their website and on BSPS. The system works very well - the plates slide in with a tight fit so just a little bit of filing was required for me. The entire set up has a very good fit and finish; I have a 2.5 SRO on it and it still sits fairly low.
  14. If you're going to spend the money, you might as well go with the R3MAX. The offset isn't really an issue for USPSA applications.
  15. Both have worked in the past - although I have seen a fluke thing where somehow a round got underneath the MBX follower. Regardless of what guts you use, the key is tuning the mag lips with digital calipers and a rubber mallet.
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