regor

I hope they are just adding to their backlog and not actually fulfilling those orders right away. I had a subscription order that was supposed to go out early December but instead of actually planning ahead and fulfilling subscription orders on time they charged my card and said it'd be a 10-12 week wait. They are really dropping the ball on this IMO and I am seriously considering switching to another brand after things calm down. If they aren't going to fulfill subscriptions on time then they should at least be notifying those with subscriptions that they are no longer honoring them.

For those who switched to MP from HS6, what was your change in charge weight? I've seen plenty of people comment that it burns clean (HS6 makes my Czechmate filthy), but is there any substantial change in feel? What is powder fill like in a 9mm case? I'm running 8.5gr of HS6, which leaves me a reasonable amount of room in the case so I don't have any spillage issues from the case plate indexing and I don't think the load is compressed based on my measurements. Also how is availability vs HS6? Seems like MP is cheaper but charge weights are higher so cost savings is negligible.

Based on what they've done with the TS2 I doubt it will be any meaningful changes. There absolutely are improvements that could be made to the Czechmate (compatible with 2011 optic mounts, more secure magwell with better blending, options for shorter/longer reach triggers, better mags, a safety more similar to 2011 so that more folks can comfortable use it), but I doubt they are going to do any of that.

The issue is that as the rounds transition over the mag/extensions transition the stack gets messed up and the top round doesn't get the pressure under the nose that it needs to keep it properly oriented, so it dips when the slide picks it up. I'm not sure if that will fix your .40 issues since they .40 mags don't have the ribs, which is the real source of the issue for the 9mm mags. You can check out his forum post about tuning. https://czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=98021.msg758958#msg758958. There's a similar thread on here,

Have you tried tuning the mag bodies yet (pinching in at the double/single stack transition)? Also are you running flat nosed/JHP bullets? After tuning my mags and switching to round nose my 170s have been completely reliable as long as they are kept clean. Replaced the springs once at about the 1 year mark (140 springs have been fine w/o replacement)

What kind of velocity variations have folks seen when switching to different brands of the same primer type? I just finished re-doing my 9 Major load since I finished all my Everglades bullets and am switching to Montana Gold. I also decided to switch primers since I have 6k Winchester spp vs 1500 Fiocchi and don't want to have to re-do the load in a couple months. First test was much too fast, so I lowered the load and out of curiosity loaded up some with Fiocchi primers and some with Winchester. My friend had his chrono at the range as well so I shot over both of them and they were consistently about 10fps apart. I was quite surprised to find that the same load with Fiocchi primers was ~40fps slower than the Winchester and had much higher SD. Both made power factor, but the Fiocchi ones barely squeaked over. Curious if this is normal when switching primer brands for the same type or if one of the two I was using is known to be under/overpowered.

Big Custom Shop propaganda!

I've been shooting a Czechmate in Open for the last 1+ year. My take on it is that the CM won't hold you back from achieving any of your goals. I went from B class to M class over the course of 2020 and I do not feel that I was handicapped by shooting a CM at any point. You can buy two of them for the price many folks are paying for their big name custom 2011s. If you already have CZs then you also have the benefit of being able to share some small parts in the case of breakages. They should run 100% out of the box with everything they send, although the mags do need to be tuned once you start adding extensions (140mm extensions on the 20 round mags should run fine, but big sticks will need tuning). You will need to blend the frame and mag-well since they are not fit well from the factory, which is annoying, but easy to do. Mine was able to run major and minor right out of the box too, so no need to fiddle with spring weights to get it to run reliably with minor. As @Rnlinebacker mentioned, the reset is longer than most 2011s, but IMO that hardly matters. I can still throw down <0.15 splits with the Czechmate trigger. As to whether or not your trigger is mushy, it's hit or miss. I have 2 CMs and a TSO. Two are very crisp, while the third is a little mushy, but only noticeable if I am focus on it. Switching to the aluminum triggers and/or switching hammer/trigger spring can improve this. The one area w.r.t trigger that I dislike is the inability to change the length of pull with different trigger shoes like the 2011. There is a "big hands" trigger available from Cesar Shop if you need a longer LOP, but that's the only option I am aware of. On the flip side, there are tons of grip options available and they are much cheaper to experiment with than 2011 grip modules. In general they are very easy to work on and don't need to be sent in to a gunsmith to have any new parts fitted. The other main area that many people dislike is the safety. If you have short thumbs it may be very difficult to actuate the safety consistently without shifting your grip. CZC makes an enlarged safety that I find to be a substantial improvement, but you may want to try handling a CM or TSO before committing to one in case it doesn't work with your thumbs.

The windage tension can also be adjusted via a tiny set screw accessible when the base plate is removed. Tensioning the elevation requires bending a piece of metal. Adding some nail polish or toque sealant is definitely best practice with these optics.

We fairly routinely see M class CO folks beating A class Open folks (shooting major PF) at our local matches, so it's possible to be "competitive" at the local level if you're good enough, but the inherent disadvantage of minor scoring in a major PF division is going to knock you down a class unless your clubs routinely host extremely technical matches where major scoring is less of an advantage. You'd be better off getting a proper CO gun for 1/3 of the price and spend the rest on training ammo.

How has CZ still not addressed the horribly fit magwells? This is ridiculous.

A would suggest going between 15-20 yards so you don't have to think too much about hold over/under. Close zero minimizes need to hold over for close targets, but requires more holdover for far targets. Roughly speaking for practical pistol ranges your POI shift will be (target distance - zero distance)*bore offset/zero distance. So if your offset is 1" and you zero at 10 yards, you'll be 1" low at point blank, on at 10 yards, 1" high at 20 yards, 2" high at 30 yards, etc.. Drop starts to come into play around 50 yards, but that's rare in any pistol match. A 15 yard zero will put you +- your bore offset between point blank and 30 yards, which for an open gun is probably about +- 2". 20 yard zero gives you +- 2" between 0 and 40 yards.

Agreed, a simple addition for a definition of "holstered" to the glossary would help clear this up. It's still baffling that so many people are getting it wrong though. This is a safety rule to prevent the gun from firing due to a snag while putting it into the holster, which seems obvious to me. Flipping the safety on once it's already holstered does nothing to limit this.

Yep, based on the variety of firearms and bore offsets I have seen them on I definitely believe it. 510c is only 100 MOA.

My Czechmate came with a C-More slide ride, and I milled the OEM mount to take the 510c and actually had to shim the front to bring it up a bit since it was angled too far down and even when maxing out elevation I couldn't get the 17 yard zero I was looking for. I just went to Harbor Freight and bought a cheap set of feeler gauges and cannibalized the size I needed to shim with. Yours is mounted a fair bit higher, so who knows if it will play nicely, but I know of two other local shooters running different 2011 mounts who both had to shim their 510cs to get the zero they wanted. IIRC both had to shim the front up, so maybe the downward angled barrel will actually help you out there.

Interesting. I hope you have enough elevation adjustment with the C-More to zero it!

Is that first photo pre-assembly or is the comp actually angled downwards?

Be prepared to trim the screws to the correct length as well. They should not sit proud of the inside of the frame or they could impact the slide under recoil

My '19 one came with the adjustable thumb rest holes drilled and the black aluminum grips like the TSO.

I bought a throating reamer from Clymer Tool, cost $65 shipped and I did three Czechmate barrels myself + may still do some of my other CZ barrels as well; seems plenty sharp enough to do many more. I had never worked with a reamer before but found it to be pretty easy and did not see any appreciable drop in accuracy.

Paul Bunyan is a great range and should put on a really great match. The WA State match this past year had really good stage design and they have been working on a lot of cool new props and activators over the past year that we'll hopefully see at A1 2021.

It looks to have the same trigger guard shape as the 75b. I don't have one to test but I would guess any race holster that fits the 75b will fit the 97b. You could try emailing DAA and ask if their 75b insert for the Alpha-X will fit the 97b.

I have the Caldwell one. It works and isn't too pricy. You absolutely need a chrono to get good load development and make sure you make Major. Ever bullet/powder/gun combo is different, but 7.5gr HS6 under a 124gr Precision Delta JHP out of my Czechmate gave me 163PF. Plated bullets may go a bit faster due to less friction, but could also go slower depending on bearing surface and other factors; the only way to know for sure is to chrono. I've been running a 115gr load and I needed 8.4gr HS6 to get me up to 171PF with PD JHPs, and needed to bump that up to 8.8gr when I switched to Everglades bullets. Now I'm using Montana Gold and need to drop it back down a bit.

I have some SP certs from matches this fall and was looking at using them to get some Glock extensions for a family member just getting into the sport. Does anyone have any experience with them they could share? I have a bunch of their CZ ones but have never seen the Glock ones in use.

Thank you both for your insight, it definitely helped clarify some things for me and give me a good idea of what I should look for.