regor

I have not had button issues with either of the new ones, but they have low round counts. Maybe 3k on the primary and a couple hundred on the backup.

They don't make them for the TSO, only the SP-01/Shadow style mags, which are narrower.

They will warranty it for the button issue alone, I believe. Turnaround was very quick for both mine that went back. Did you swap the battery? The batteries from the factory don't seem to get as many hours as they claim. I've had three of mine turn off when battery was dying but dot would intermittently come back; swapping to a fresh battery always fixed it. Swapping batteries is a mandatory preventative maintenance thing for any major match IMO.

Armory Craft has orange CZ75 +0 base pads. Not sure if they are the exact same as the ones on the S2 Orange but it says they are designed for the 18 round factory mags. https://www.armorycraft.com/product-page/cz-75-sp-01-base-pad-orange

Could be an issue with grips too. I have a pair of Lok grips on my P-01 and when they were tightened down all the way they added enough friction that some mags wouldn't drop free.

Ran mine at a local match this weekend! I think I'll stick to Open division primarily but I think this is my favorite firearm...

I have broken 2 Romeo3XLs on my Czechmates. First one lasted about 5k rounds and started drifting vertically. First noticed in a match and then re-zeroed at the start of a practice session and was hitting 8" high again after 150 rounds. Sig said they couldn't reproduce at the factory but sent me a new one. Second one had no more than 3k rounds on it and broke during a major match; Sig confirmed the diode was completely detached from the adjustment chassis (this one also had some button issues like others have mentioned). Both times Sig has had a replacement at my door within a week of their receiving the original, but I will likely switch to a different brand if I have another fail at relatively low round count. Current two are at ~2k and <500 rounds.

I’ve been using the Lok palm swell brass grips on my Czechmates. The short cut version for factory magwell adds about 6.5oz and balances quite well. I also recently got an Eamann Tech brass magwell to test out which adds another 3.5oz and the balance feels amazing with that, but it’s quite a lot of weight to add.

I measured mine to need about 0.012", 0.3mm of material removed. I'm also not very confident that I can remove that from the compensator face without damaging the cone so I think I'll copy your method of grinding the slide face. I don't think it will make any substantial visual difference with the factory comp.

My August 20th order just changed to "awaiting shipment".

Still waiting on an order from August 20th, now over 3 months.

How much material did you have to remove? Hoping I don't have to do the same with mine...

That's standard, mine did as well from several years ago; most folks I've seen running TSOs run the pins in place of the slide stop.

How have the slides held up that you've modified for popples? Any cracking issues? I saw at least one where you milled it all the way forward without leaving a bridge a the front of the slide; do you think that's as structurally sound as milling a slot a little bit further back?

Any particular reason you prefer them closer to the muzzle? I was thinking of both under the slide with the first right at the cone. My compensator has a little bit of wobble so any hole through it would need to be even more oversized compared to the hole in the barrel.

And as a second comment for better visibility; for those who have added popples to the Czechmate, did you add them behind the comp cone or did you mill a slot/hole in the cone too?

Has anyone experimented with opening up/removing a baffle in the factory CM compensator? Specifically I was thinking of having the third baffle removed so it's two small chambers followed by a larger chamber, similar to the binary engineering comp. I found an older thread where @kneelingatlasmentioned opening up the first chamber but the image was dead so I don't know what was actually done. I want to do some experimentation with my backup CM this offseason, I'm planning on sending it off to have popple holes added (thinking 2x3/16") and I'm considering asking the shop to modify the comp at the same time. Another option would be to chop the final chamber off totally and then remove the 2nd baffle to make it similar to the 2-chamber binary engineering comp, which seems to be the general trend on 9Major 2011s with popples currently. That's obviously a riskier modification but would have a nice benefit of reducing the front heaviness even more.

What I found with electronic ear pro is that if your plugs are doing a good job you don't hear much better with muffs on. I switched to the Howard Leight MAX ear plugs and HL Impact Pro muffs when I started shooting Open because I was getting headaches by the end of matches with my HL Impact Sports + whatever reusable plugs I had at the time. I was very surprised to find that I no longer could hear clearly when doubled up; it's slightly better because there is some amount of sound coming through via bone induction, but it's not a huge difference. I took that as a sign that I was getting a pretty poor seal before and while I've tried a couple other plug options I have not found any to give me nearly the same seal as the MAX plugs as assessed by the amount of hearing I get back when putting on electronic muffs.

Who has tried out the Sebo back side optics mount on their Czechmate? I'm curious if folks have found it causes any ejection issues or any other changes of note + general impressions of the mount. I like the idea of shifting the balance towards the rear more and this seems like a decent option to move a couple ounces back. I saw they have a 510c option available, which I wasn't previously aware of and is the only 510c mounting option available to my knowledge (besides milling the factory mount yourself, which I tried and I found made the gun even more front heavy).

I can't really speak to how well the mount holds zero, I don't ever switch back and forth and the only time I've taken it off is to mount a different optic. With respect to the crowded controls, the factory slide racker is meant to be run on the right side, as you found out. There are plenty of aftermarket options for angled or curved rackers that work well on the left side for the Czechmate (I use a Shooter's Connection Sidewinder). Most folks run the pins that come in the case instead of the slide stop, which frees up some space on the side. There are extended safety options from CZC as well if you want to change up the safety configuration.

I have shot and handled guns with both CZC and CGW internals and don't think there is any major difference. I installed CGW kits in my SP-01 Tactical and P-01, it is a little tricky getting the sear cage back together on the decocker models but it is useful to know how in case you get any parts breakage in the future.

The CZC magwell attaches differently and actually creates more room on the grip than the factory magwell. If you leave the factory grips on you will have a ~1/4" gap between the bottom of the grip and top of the magwell.

Do the 170s hold 29?

On of my Czechmates was like this; I figured out the general area of the rails that was too tight and polished it up, checking for fit frequently until it cycled smoothly.

I would suggest switching to a round nose projectile. I tried the everglades jhp v2 and even with lots of tuning could not get them to reliably feed past 27 rounds in the magazine; the hollowpoint snags on the bottom of the feedramp. Anything over ~1.165 may start to have friction inside the mag body that can make the issues worse. 1.17 is about the max OAL you can run in the CZ/TSO mags. I run the springer 170mm extensions with CZC 13-coil springs and OEM springs and get 29+1 in each, 28 rounds reloadable. I need to change springs every 9 months to stay ahead FTF in the first few rounds. I also clean and brush mags roughly ever 3-4 matches and brush them out at matches whenever they get dropped in dusty areas. They can be very reliable if you stay ahead of tuning and maintenance.