Jfitz427

Hey guys. So my wife and I just moved into a new house on 15 acres and finally I have a decent size room for reloading/home gun smithing. So I’d to see some pics of your guys setups to get some ideas for mine. I pretty much know what I want to do, but I love to look at pics of nice setups. At our old house I had very humble setup. A 4ft bench in our living room. Super small, but I made it work but now I have an entire room in the basement, it’s probably 10x18 or so would be my guess. I think I’m going to do an L shaped bench, run a bench across the whole back 10ft wall, then 12 or so feet down the other wall. Mount my lee turret, my Lee loadmaster in 40 and my new 1050 in 9 when it arrives, and my singe stage for push though sizing. And then leave another 4-5ft space specially for cleaning and working on guns. Won’t even get into the range im going to build our back, that’s for another thread. But I’m gonna be able to shoot a lot more rounds. I don’t have any pics yet, but I’ll take some tomorrow. In the mean time let’s see some pics of your setups.

I have one of Eric is also. Very happy with it. I haven’t tried shooting minor out of it yet though. I have a few hundred rounds of hotish minor loaded up (7g hs-6 115g). I’ll have to give it a try with a 7lb spring and report back. It’s a good comp so I imagine it’ll shoot well.

Hmm, that’s interesting. I found the fix to be making sure the double to single transition approx 1 inch down is between .560-570. They come from the factory around .630 or bigger. Atlas details this in one of their recent videos. I couldn’t believe how well it worked. Prior to doing this you see a big gap between the first and second round in the mag, but once you bring it in they all stack up perfectly on top of one another with no gap. Now I have no more nosedives.

I had this same problem. Clipping coils doesn’t really work because then the plunger tube will no longer be attached to the sprIng. I tried it. It’ll just kinda float and can bind up if it’s not attached. I also tried putting like a radius/relief cut on the plunger where it contacts the safety. Clipping coils helped a lot more then this did. But overall the fix was a new softer spring. I wish I could tell you which brand is softer, but my gunsmith did this for me. You could probably find a reduced power sprIng or something if you searched google.

That’s really cool. I’d like to pick one of these up in the future. Even the DC model is pretty reasonable.

I’ve been using a combo seat and crimp ever since moving from my turret to a progressive. And this allows me to use a powder check which I think is well worth it. The problem with the combo that I’ve found is the oal fluctuates a lot more. But I’ve found that the caliber matters too, with 40 the brass is much more consistent in my experience. I can set for 1.180 and have all rounds be almost dead on that oal. But with 9mm mixed brass and shooting for say 1.165, my oal was all over the place. It still didn’t seem to effect function or accuracy though. And it’s not a problem when loading my wife’s 9 minor ammo. But for my 9 major I just went back to separating the two steps for better consistency. I figure 8g of hs-6 fills the case so much it’s east to verify. Unlike 3g of titegroup. I need my powder check for that. I’m not sure if I can say my loads are more accurate after separating the two steps. I think it was basically the same as when I combine them

I agree that height is more important. I’m not big on the lack of height with my Romeo 1. One of the shortest, but also the widest at 30mm. I’d rather those dimensions be flipped.

I cant resist posting one of mine. Took an old trubor, and made this piece of art. Only parts that was kept was the frame and slide. Everything else is new. Even with all this work, essentially building a new gun minus slide to frame fitting, it was still only like 1/5th the cost of a new gun.

I just made the switch. I did love the huge glass of the cmore, but my Romeo is super wide, just not that tall. The Romeo is as bright, if not brighter then my cmore was. That was my one worry. I had some other micro dots in the past and they just weren’t bright enough for sunny days. That’s not a problem with the Romeo. I never really had problems with ejection. Once in a while a FTE. I’ve put around 1000rds though my gun with the micro dot and didn’t have a single malfunction. I’d say go for it.

No problems here with range brass. I do sort out the lesser know brands, and use that for minor loads, and I toss the stepped stuff. For major i use blazer, FC, win, and those are usually the bulk of what I pick up. But I also will use PMC, Speer, and I’m probably forgetting a few other brands.

Don at venom customs. I was talking to him yesterday and he’s fitting a new KKM sland barrel on a customs old Sti competitor. His prices are very reasonable and turn around times are fast. Check out the very last page of the venom customs thread to see before and after a of my old trubor. It looks like a completely different gun now. https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/268578-venom-customs/page/9/

Mine used to do that once in a while, not often, Maybe once ever 150rds or so. So I ditched the slide ride and went to to a micro dot and mount (Romeo 1 6 moa) and now it’s 100% reliable. The Romeo is as bright, if not brighter then the c more. Windows a bit smaller, but it’s big enough. I did love the huge window on the cmore. But I like reliability better. Not that my gun was unreliable, because it wasn’t, I think it ran about as good as it can with that setup. I just figured it would be much easier and I’d have less problems long term with the small dot and mount. So far I’ve ran 800rds though the gun and the only malfunctions I’ve had was due to my sti mags causing a few nose dives. Mbx ran 100%, sti about 95%. No FTE or anything gun related.

I like having the barrel support. But I’ve since realized it’s not necessary. Next holster of mine I probably won’t be getting it. But it is nice to have that extra bit of support.,

I did not lol. I thought I had heard it was about 1000 bucks, which I already thought was expensive. Something I could buy later on though. Now way for 2200 bucks. But this is all just theoretical as I can’t pay 4400 just for the press in the first place.

You ordered one? Was it cheaper then we’ve been talking about? Man I really do want one, but I can’t justify double the price. I’d love to buy a manual evo and eventually upgrade to the primer collator. Not having to deal with tubes would be great.

I wish i would have done a hybrid barrel on mine. But when I bought the new barrel right after buying the gun I knew knowing about 2011s and the various options. That’s going to be so sweet.

Looking good. Can’t wait to see the magic he works on the slide cuts and design. At the pace he works at it’ll probably be done in 3 days. Is that a hybrid barrel? I like the comp. for my next build I’d like to use the same comp, same grip, kkm hybrid barrel. 5 inch gun.

I’ve noticed the same thing. Never really thought about it until now. But my oals are much more consistent with my 40 loads. Even with a combo seater and crimper my 40 loads will all come in around say 1.180 +- .002. I just started loading 9 again after a few months off and had to ditch my powder check to seat and crimp separate because my oals were all over the place. Even with doing those in different steps at best my oal was +-.005. So some would come in a 1.165, others 1.170. Then I’d still randomly get one with big variances at like 1.157, 1.179.

Brazos is extreme engineering. He just takes the parts and cuts the angles on the sear and hammer hooks and then puts it in a gun to make sure it works. It’s good for all us people who don’t know how to do it.

Load development was done. Montana gold shot like s#!t. Plain and simple. Please don’t try and explain to me that I don’t know how to work up loads. This is my gun and my barrel. They make good bullets that I’m sure work great for tons of other people. But not in this particular gun. And that’s how specific barrels and loads work. Good for some, bad for others. Hell they shot pretty damn good in my S3F barreled Glock. But not in my trubor barrel.

I tested a few bullets last weekend. Everglades 124g JHPs, with those the accuracy was great. Then second and third was s tie between Berry’s 124g plated rn and 124g blue bullets. They were pretty accurate, nothing to complain about for practical shooting. Definitely not bullseye accurate though. Then last was the 115g Montana gold CMJ. Accuracy was poor to say the least. 6 or so inches from a rest at 15 yards. It may have even been worse then that. It was bad. Montana gold puts our quality bullet, so idk why these were so bad.

Blazer is one of the main brands i use for 9 major. Blazer, win, and FC are the 3 I mostly stick with. Also RP, then some pmc, and Speer. But my indoor range sells blazer so that’s usually the bulk of what I pick up. It’s good stuff. Never had a problem.

How the barrel locks up seems like a solid idea. Definitely a cool concept.

All I could find was the triglide bow when building my gun. The little ball bearing causes problems from what I’ve heard. So my smith just took it out. Should last forever now. I really like My SV trigger. I started with the large flat, but I may try a medium flat to see if it fits me better. The interchange inserts are great. No need to buy and install a whole new shoe if it doesn’t fit or feel good.

I’ve kept my g34 open gun around and bring it as back up to my 2011. Its not a bad backup. Needs a slightly different load though. At some point I’m gonna buy a new primary open gun, and my current will become backup. Maybe one day I’ll have enough money to have 2 of the exact same guns. But right now I can hardly afford one.