Jfitz427

I’ve read thd description for this extractor a few times talking about how the metal available when the 1911 came out is inferior to what we have today etc etc. and thought it sounded legit. But Adam from atlas has a new video out on extractors and says the opposite. Spring steel is much more stout, capable of holding tension for a lot longer then the new ones that are all made out of tool steel. He said the aftec is the only one still made of spring steel, and that’s part of the reason it works so well. He had to beat the spring steel extractor with a hammer in a vise to bend it, compared to the tool steel extractor he could bend by hand with it just hanging it out of the extractor tunnel. He was saying that they are in the process of coming out with a spring steel extractor in the next year, and also said a few other companies also are. So idk what to believe. Adam is usually spot on with his videos. Not saying the EGW extractor is bad at all. I’m thinking about replacing the one in my limited gun with the EGW HD soon. Lots of good reviews. But what EGW says and what Adam says are the exact opposite. I run an aftec in my open gun.

I’m in the same boat now. We just moved 10 days ago or so. Moving is just the worst. So you waited 6 months or so to rebuild your bench? My wife would have liked me to do the same and focused on unpacking and all the stuff we had to do to the house. We moved in on a Thursday, and I build the first part of my bench on that Sunday. She wasn’t to happy. Now 10 days later my reloading Room is about 75% unpacked and setup. Just need to build another 12-15ft or bench on the other wall. At our old house all I had was a 4ft wide bench in the corner of our living room. Now at our new house I have a 12ft x 21ft room. So I’m super excited. After having to pack and unpack everything I can’t believe I was able to fit all my stuff on and under my little 4ft bench. As I’ve almost filled up this entire new room. Also added a dillion 1050 with a bullet feeder. I’m really excited to start loading on it. Here’s a progress pic of my new reloading/gun room

Almost ordered some win primers when I saw the no hazmat, and they which cane out to 32.99 per brick when you order 5k. Then I called my local shop down the road and asked how much their win primers are. 29.99. And no shipping and obviously no hazmat. So I held off. Midway never has great prices on reloading stuff. Lots of great prices on gun parts and such though.

So it tried it out. Mounted it and it clears the bullet feeder dropper tube no prob, but it hits the blue thing that sits on the primer tube. I think that’s the low primer sensor? Not sure, as I’ve only owned my 1050 for 24hrs. But I believe with the riser it will work. Anyone used both the Dillion and the Lee and can comment on which is more accurate? I just got my bare press and I want to set it up right. Don’t mind paying 90 bucks for the Dillion measure if that’s the best way to go. But like I said I’ve been very happy with the accuracy of my Lee. So if that works then great. Picture isn’t great. I’ll take another tomorrow that shows where it’s comtacting,

Ya that looks like it’ll work. Tonight I’m gonna set mine up with the auto drum and see if it works without it.

From all I’ve read with people comparing them to Dillion’s and others they say the auto drum is the most accurate. I’ve only used the auto drum, but I’ve been very happy with it. With powders like titegroup or hs-6 basically every throw is spot on. I’m gonna try setting it up later and see if it’ll work and clear my bullet feeder for assembly.

2 reasons for me, cost is a big one . And second, for open guns PVD or any of those type of finishes really isn’t necessary. They don’t go in and out of kydex or any holster material constantly rubbing and wearing the finish where you’ll need some type of crazy finish. Cerakote has been really durable in my experience, even when using a Kydex holster. I have an open Glock with cerakote that started its life as a carry optics type gun with no comp and I used a kydex holster for over a year, then I converted it to an open gun and ran it out of a safari land 014, which holds just the trigger guard and muzzle for another year or so, and the finish is literally as perfect as the day I had it done.

Thanks. I’ve read that thread and nobody actually says ya I’m running it on a 1050 and this is what you need. There’s 4-5 threads on here about Lee powder measures but none on if people are making them work on a 1050. So that’s why I started a new one.

That’s what mine was also, either 1 part titanium 3 parts sniper or vise versa. Great color.

I never used any of the old sti mags, but I would venture to guess the mbx and new sti are better seeing as how multiple people build businesses strictly tuning those old mags, not so much anymore with these new options. The mbx don’t need any tuning in my experience, I have 2 170s in 9 and 2 140s in 40. Both have been great. I really like the mbx for 9mm. They just work. The new sti work great in 40, and about 99.9% in 9. Little tuning needed at the area where it goes double to single stack. 1 inch down from the top of the mag they come from the factory around .620, and they need to be brought down to .560-.570, and then they stack neatly in that transition and work great. Honestly though working on mags and tuning them to spec is pretty easy. I’m sure If I bought some old sti first gen mags I could get them working 100%. But if you have old ones and need some new ones I’d get either new sti or mbx. And id say mbx for 9, and sti for 40. No problems with mbx in 40, but they just aren’t necessary and the new sti will work perfectly for quite a bit cheaper. 50 for the tube, 30 for the basepad and 18 for guts gets you the complete mag for 100 bucks.

Hey guys, I’m the proud new owner of a Dillion 1050 that I picked up from a guy on here locally and I have a few questions. It didn’t come with a caliber conversion or powder measure, so I’m weighing my options on what to buy. I already ordered a 9mm conversion and some primer pickup tubes. But as for the powder measure, it’s 90 bucks, and I already have 4 Lee auto drums that I’m very happy with. They throw incredibly accurate charges so I’d like to know if it’s possible to use one of the Lees on my 1050? The 1050 will have a bullet feeder if that makes a difference. Other question is, are there any specific mods I should do right away for better operation? The guy I bought it from suggested the bearing kit for under the shell plate. That seems like a solid upgrade for smoother indexing. Really excited to start cranking out some rounds on this thing. Everything I’ve read says with a case feeder and bullet feeder on a 1050 you can easily do 1000+ rds an hour.

Wow, that looks awesome! I love it. Is that the same color as mine and a few others? The custom color 1 part of one gray and 3 parts another gray? I love the various grays. Love those slide cuts too.

So did you end up with both a 1050 and a mk7? I just picked up a 1050 tonight from a guy on here that actually lived a few towns over. Got to see an automated 1050 in action too which was really cool. He had a mk 7 pro auto drive. Down the line I’m gonna automate for sure. Probably when I have kids and have less free time. Will see how my new 1050 compares to my loadmaster. The stroke already seems so much smoother. 7 stations and the built in swage is so nice. And being able to run either s bullet feeder plus powder check and seat crimp combo, or nix the powder check and run seat and crimp separately. Anyway I’m super excited about it. It didn’t come with the caliber conversion so I can’t use it until I get the 9mm conversion delivered which will probably be like Wednesday.

You’ll love it. I came down here from New York 6 years ago and man, what a difference. New York is as bad as Ca. So I know your pain. Gun control laws passed that target law abiding citizens with surgical precision. Promoting illegals and criminals lives over citizens. Taxing you to death. Were planninng on getting some chickens soon, we have tons of deer roaming to hunt, and soon will start building some big vegetable gardens. Coming from the city , it’s just so nice and peaceful out here. So quiet which I love after living in an area with hundreds of barking dogs all night. But we are still less then 15 mins from downtown Greensboro, a decently sized city. It’s a great location.

We live in North Carolina. A good free state.

Great looking gun B_RAD. How do you like the full dust cover open gun? I want to do that only next build. I bet the eXtra weight really keeps the muzzle down. On another note My wife and I just moved into our dream house on 15 acres, so I’ve been shooting everyday. And the icing on the cake, we just met our neighbors who really aren’t that close to us, but still close enough to hear the blasts of my open gun. We went over to introduce ourselves and they’re gun people too, and already have a range build on their property. They said everyone shoots around here. It couldn’t be a more perfect situation. Prior to moving I got to shoot 2 times a week at best, most only once. So now being able to walk out my back door, my gun is racking up the round count. I hope I can get 30-50k out of this slide before it cracks, preferably even longer. Gonna start slowly saving up parts for my next build so it’s not such a shock to my wallet buying them all at once.

If your 9 major gun is build by a reputable gun builder it will have no reliability problems. Mine was build by Don at venom customs, and it runs 100%. Especially nowadays with the micro dots like the RTS2 or DPP etc instead of a big cmore it really makes reliability easy. So my vote would be for 9 major.

Lol ya pro shooters do not get paid like any baseball basketball football player gets paid. Hell I think the min in football is like 400k. That’s probably more then the best shooter in the world gets. The guy I know was never world champ. He placed 6th at the 96 ipsc in Brazil individual and 1st for the US team. He always told me the goal was top 16 in the international events. So he got about 10k per sponsorship. I bet the world champs get a decent amount more then that.

Personally, my next build I’m going with a hybrid barrel. I like how they shoot vs a traditional bull barrel and comp. so that would be my suggestion.

That’s not bad at all. I’ll have to look around for used salvage places. Although I just build a part of my bench yesterday and it’s pretty rigid. This part I’m not planning to mount any of the big presses, maybe my single stage for push though sizing but I doubled up on 22/32nd plywood and it’s very very sturdy. And I’m going to add 2 2x4s between the middle of the cabinets for increased support in the opening their. But this part of the bench I imagine it as mostly working on guns, trimming brass etc. so my vise, and trimmer will be setup here. Then on the right side wall I’ll build another bench and this is where the big press’s will be mounted.

Ya it doesn’t make sense, just use the most common mounting pattern. Don’t make up a unique one that no one makes mounts for. On another note I really like Nikon products. I have 2 Nikon scopes, a p223 4-16 on a SPR and a p308 on my AR10. Both a great scopes especially for the money. I’d like to give this new dot a try at some point.

I’m friends what a guy who was a top shooter in the late 80s though the 90s into the mid 2000s and he said each sponsorship was worth about 10k. Sti would give him enough parts to build like 3 guns each year. Montana gold would give him 100k bullets plus set him as a distributor for them so he could make extra money. All the guys make most of their money doing classes at 1000 bucks a day plus expenses.

This is what will be my reloading room. It’s a pretty good size room. There’s another similar unfinished room right next to it that’s about double the size that I really wanted but the boss said no, that one has to be our gym..but this room is fine size for a reloading /gun room. It’s like dungeon now, with just that one light. And there’s no electrical outlets yet. So that’s one of the first things I’ll be doing. Running new lights and outlets. I’m going to finish the room somewhat, gonna do beadboard panel on the walls and some type of floating floor. Then a drop ceiling eventually. The next picture is the the view of the 15 acres out back of the house. It’s heavily wooded now, but 95% are all small trees, 3-6 inch diameter. But there’s thousands of them. That’s where the range will be goijg. It looks like I’ll be able to have a rifle range go out to roughly 400 yards, and then a pit for shooting pistols. The house and yard need a ton of work. If I had it my way the first projects would be the range and my reloading room. But the wife says no, we have to unpack and fix the interior first. And she’s the boss.

Wow, that is a great looking setup. This is what I’m leaning towards. I wish I could afford a thick butchers block type countertop, but the ones I’ve seen are over 800 bucks when buying 12+ feet of it. I’m debating between buying some cabinets and a countertop for my bench, which will look the best imo and the cabinets will be great for storage. Or build a typical work bench out of 2x4s and plywood. I’d like a really rigid bench top. Are 4x4s all gluded together overkill? And how did you mount the top to the cabinets? I’ve build a few kitchens and there isn’t really any good spots to put some big bolts though. Most people use caulk or some type of adhesive to secure the countertop to the base cabinets. Which works fine in a kitchen. But in a shop with these presses mounted and the force that’s put on it, I’d like to bolt it to the base.

Ya I’ve looked though that thread, but the problem is it’s from 2003, so most of the pictures no longer work. It would be good to do an updated thread.