M1A4ME

Doesn't look like hand/finger print rust. Looks like it's been stored in a damp back/pocket. Look how uniform the runs is. No heavy finger print type spots. I've used 3n1 oil (now using Mobil 1, too) on a rag to wipe down my guns after handling (whether fired or not) and before putting them away for the night or for weeks or months (sometimes for years). I've not had a rust issue, even when stored in zip up cases (the old hunting/shotgun/rifle style cases used everywhere) or when stored on a shelf in the safe or in the S&W wood boxes. No rust. Not on stored guns. I sweat like a pig. Here's a picture of my P07 at the end of the day (a hot/humid central VA day). The moisture beaded up on the metal is sweat. I just dry it off, wipe it down with my oily rag and let the holster dry out over night before doing it again the next day.

The roll pin in question is a tiny/short little roll pin used as a slave pin to hold the trigger return spring in place while you line the trigger up inside the frame. It is so short the ends are flush with the side of the trigger itself. The only thing holding the little/short roll pin in place is the pressure the trigger return spring puts on it once you press the spring into place in the trigger. We just put another one in my youngest son's CZ 75 SA. It only takes thumb pressure to push the floating trigger pin into place - unless you get it out of alignment. If that happens it stops pushing into place. Don't hammer/smack it, just look in there and get things lined up. When properly aligned your thumb will push the floating trigger pin into place. We saved the old pin as a spare/back up.

The little roll pin is used to hold the trigger return spring in place in the trigger while you set it down into the frame. When you push the floating trigger pin into the hole in the frame and push it on through it will push that little roll pin right out the other side of the frame. The coils of the trigger return spring sit down in the smaller diameter center of the floating trigger pin and hold it in place. I put one in my CZ 85 a few weeks back. Won't know the difference until the next time I tear the frame down for some reason or other. Then I won't have to get a punch and hammer and pound the trigger pin out of the frame to get the trigger out.

The Glock spring will fit and it works fine if that's what's causing your problem. Mine was being caused by something else, at the time, so I still had issues till I got the timing issue fixed (striker block not completely out of the way when the sear released the striker). I did a pencil test comparison of the S&W spring vs. the Glock spring and the Glock spring did seem a bit stouter.

Some did, some didn't. My first gen P07 didn't have one. My 2nd gen P09 9MM didn't have one. My 2nd gen P09 .40 S&W did come with one.

I can't answer that question. I can tell you I bought a lb. of it a couple years ago for .357 SIG and I will never, ever buy another can of it. I have an RCBS uniflow, a couple of Lyman 55's and a Lee powder measure and none of them will meter 800X worth beans. I finally used it up when my wife bought me one of those Hornady electronic measure/scale outfits. That was the only way I got consistent charges.

MIne's in the garage with all my reloading stuff. I put a batch of .45 acp brass in it just before lunch (finished up priming almost 300 .45 acp cases and 200 .223 cases) and was going in to the house to eat. I turned on the cleaner and shut the doors. At around 5 PM I went out to the garage to walk to get the bikes (pedal bikes) out for an evening ride and I turned the cleaner off. In the morning I'll separate the brass from the media and get ready to resize it/bell it. Then I'll add another batch to the cleaner and head into the house again. I seldom run the cleaner when I'm at the bench reloading. I have to turn the radio up too loud to hear it.

The less dirt I introduce to the reloading process and the guns, the longer they last/run. If you bought a box of ammo from a store and brought it home, only to find out it was covered with powder residue, some tarnish on the brass, etc. - would you smile and load it in your magazines and trust it? Or would you take it back to the store and demand a different box, or your money back? I clean my guns, too. And oil them. And sometimes, even when I haven't shot one for awhile I field strip it, wipe it down and lube it before putting it back together. It's amazing how dirty my EDC gets just carrying it around all the time. When I rebuild and engine/transmission I try to make things as clean as possible before putting it back together. I've, not yet anyway, had to tear one down again and go back through it. On the other hand, I used to know a guy who didn't bother to make sure his hands or his parts were clean when he rebuilt engines and transmissions for his cars/trucks. On average his rebuilds would last about 3 years before he had to repeat his work. I only wet tumble the really discolored stuff I pick up at the range. I run the better looking brass through the vibratory cleaner once before resizing. If it's rifle brass I run it through again to remove the case lube. So far I've not done the car polish thing but I think I'm about to try it. Bought an extra vibratory cleaner just for trying that out.

Had to change my post. I didn't look closely at the picture you attached. It looks like a new model. Like a steel framed P01 (rail).

Mine's an RMR on a P09 (got a P07 done, too) done by Primary Machine. They also milled the slide for the rear sight and installed the taller sights as well as cerakoting the slide OD Green. The P07 is done the same but in FDE.

I've loaded on a single stage press for about 40 years now. I recently bought one of the Lee Classics (the cast iron/heavy duty model) and some extra 4 hole "plates" for it. I haven't set it up yet, so I can't say much about it other than I know it'll save me time. The plan is to put 9MM dies in one plate, .40 S&W dies in another plate, .45 acp in another plate and then use the last plate for .223 and 308 dies and disable the mechanism so nothing rotates. I figure that way it'll save me some time on die set up. And that's all I bought it for. I batch load. I may resize 2 or 3 hundred cases, or more, in one sitting. If they're rifle brass I'll toss them back in the cleaner to remove the case lube. I'll use a few minutes some pretty morning or evening after I've walked the dogs (and petted them and fed them treats) to prime 2 or 3 hundred pieces of brass. Some other day I'll sit down and put the powder and bullets in them. I can't tell you how long it takes to load my ammo because I don't sit down and go from just fired case to freshly reloaded case in a single session. I don't begin to load, or shoot, as much ammo as some folks. I shoot enough to get things figured out (reliability, sighting in a new gun/scope/optic and shoot a few groups. Takes time to do that right. We (nephew and I) spent 3 hours at the range Saturday. I put 10 rounds through my old Pre B CZ 85 at 25 yds. (never shot it at 25 yds. before) and I shot twenty rounds, or so, through my AR15 to get it zeroed at 100 yds. and try out a couple different powder types/bullet types, too. I'm not sure how many rounds he shot, but it was probably close to 50 or 60 rounds (I think he likes the smell of burnt gun powder). I've got Lee dies, Hornady dies, RCBS dies and Redding dies. Haven't worn any of them out yet. I do like those RCBS X dies for rifles though. I like my RCBS powder measure better than my Lyman powder measure (more consistent charges). I like my Lee hand priming tools. I use an RCBS scale. I have a Frankford Arsenal vibratory case cleaner (the first one last so long I bought another one when it finally died). I've used the Lee case trimmers, but when you buy more than one in the same caliber you'll find you get different length brass. Evidently the little pilots are not as consistent in length as they need to be. I just can't justify (to myself) spending money on really expensive reloading equipment when spending that money on primers/powder/bullets gives me ammo to shoot. Too each, their own. Or as we used to say in the Army, "whatever trips your trigger." Just make sure you buy some good manuals and follow their advice on working up loads. Stay attentive to what you are doing and what the sounds/feels during the process tell you and you might find an issue at the reloading bench vs. at the shooting bench. Good luck, it's a rewarding hobby.

I sat down one day and loaded up 350 rounds of .357 SIG for my M&P FS. A couple days later I was setting up to do some more reloading. It was s different time of the day and the lighting was different and I saw that I'd set the scale up at 5 more grains that it should have been. I'd zeroed the scale, set it, then adjusted the powder measure to get the right amount of powder. I had to figure out why I'd set the scale up wrong (and of course I wondered it I'd done it wrong before and just not caught it). It was a lighting issue. At a certain time of the day, the sun came through the window and the shadow it threw on the bar on the scale made it look like the weight was set in the right place when it was over one notch. I did two things. I got out the bullet puller and worked through those loads a box or two each day till I got all the bullets out and the AA#5 powder back in the can and I bought a 2 ft. long double row LED light to hand about 2 ft. over the press, scale and powder measure so there were no more shadows. I normally don't go any where near max loads but 5 more grains of AA#5 was 2 or 3 grains over max. It's a learning experience sometimes, and good to pass on to others as sometimes its the simple things that go wrong.

If you don't have an oiler on your air supply line be sure to add a couple/three drops every so often to prolong the life of the "air motor".

So, with the front sight up as far as you can get it you are still hitting higher than your point of aim? I'm not sure you can dial an AR15/M16 in for POA/POI at 100 yds. Maybe you can. We always sighted in at 25 meters and knew the POI was going to be high at 100 and 200 and about dead on at 250 to 275 meters and then low at 300 and 350 meters. I've not actually tried to sight any of mine in at 100 yds.

The top of your front sight should be level with the bottom of the black sighting box (Canadian Half Bull I believe it was called) creating a white box in the center bottom of that black target. Your rounds should strike the bottom X. The top X was the POI for the M14 which is a different rifle/different cartridge.

What distance are you sighting it in at? What type of rear sight do you have now? If sighting in at 25 meters you want the bullet's point of impact to be about 1.5" below your point of aim. I can't post pictures from IE, it locks up my PC. I have a picture of the older style targets we used to use when I was in the Army, I'll have to post it later

Well, I haven't shot it yet. I might get to the range Saturday. I need to take my nephew shooting so he can sight in his new AR15. That'll give me the opportunity to shoot the Colt and my rebuilt CZ 85. I'll probably never wear that spring out anyway as the Colt pretty much stays home these days in favor of the CZ's.

Mirrors the experience in my family with self defense pistols. My wife appropriated my 3.8" XDM 9MM. She was so excited by the groups she was shooting with it. Then, one day, after I'd moved on to CZs, she shot my P09 .40 S&W. Even with my hot 135 grain Nosler hollow point reloads she was shooting better groups than with the XDM and she was so disappointed. I had to buy her a CZ 75 Compact 9MM to keep from losing my P09. I tried to give my XDMs to my oldest son but by then he'd shot my new P01 and now that's what he's looking for.

Do you mean "scary" good, or just plain I wish I was somewhere else "scary?"

Opening up the Pre B mag well for modern magazines ain't too tough. I tore mine (CZ 85 Pre B down to the frame and started filing with a flat file just a little narrower than the mag. well. I'd file awhile, blow out the "dust" with an air gun/compressor and check the fit. The file some more, blow out the "dust" and recheck, repeat, repeat, repeat till you have room for the magazine to lock in and drop free. All you need to file for magazine clearance it the back of the mag. well, near the top, just below the sear cage. I also took a little bit of metal off the front part of the frame where the grip screws thread into, to insure the magazine brake would not be an issue. I cut the tab off the bottom of the magazine brake (it wraps around the hammer spring plug pin and I wanted to be able to flatten out the magazine brake so it wouldn't interfere with the magazines dropping free. I can use the 16 round Mecgars, the 16 round Mecgars with the +2 base or the Mecgar 19 round magazines. Not everyone is willing to do this but I was having mine refinished anyway so I figured prior to refinishing was the time to make things work the way I wanted.

Is your intent to save an old pistol or just to have a nice pistol to shoot? I ask because (after my recent experiences reworking a Pre B CZ 85) you might be better off money wise to just buy a new pistol. A new CZ 85 would not have cost as much as what I have in my Pre B after buying/installing new springs, pins, barrel, sights and having it refinished. After seeing what it cost me for mine (not even a competition gun, just a nice looking, nice shooting old CZ that I did all the work except the refinishing) I found a brand new CZ 75 SA that cost $600 taxes and all. And some of the Pre B guns have a staked on front sight, like a 1911, so you'd have to have the slide milled in order to use modern sights. And remember, on the CZ 75/85 guns the bushing has to be held in place by something (with my Pre B it's the front sight tenon sticking down through the bushing and being staked in place, with the newer Pre B's some of them have a similar set up to the current CZ 75/85 pistol models.) If that's what you want to do, good luck with it. If you check costs of a new pistol plus the custom parts you want you may find out it's cheaper than buying an old pistol, replacing worn parts, having it refinished, any mill/machine work required to use the new parts (some Pre B parts aren't available anymore - there's a guy on the CZ forum looking for a Pre B CZ 75 safety and not having much luck).

I can't post pictures from IE, the computer just locks up on me. I got Google Chrome to post pictures and this time it locked up on me. Pictures don't post here like they do in most forums and I'd forgot that and was correcting it when the computer locked up on me. I had to just shut google chrome down to get moving again and didn't realize the post even made it into the thread. I'll have to go to google chrome to try to fix it. Well, can't edit the original post. No edit button visible in it. Sorry. Looks like the pics were posted by Silver Dragon.

I got out of the Army in 1979 and started college. The first half of the 80's I was in college. The second half I was working down here in VA. Pretty good time. After I got out of college I bought a 73 Laguna with a 350 4 barrel and I used to enjoy spanking the Monte Carlo SS guys who thought they had a hot car. Lucky, never got a ticket in it. Miami Vice was the big TV show and I got to watch it a couple times a month when I wasn't working nights/evenings. There was a shooting range right across the field from my house that I joined. Too bad it didn't last longer. It took me longer to load my stuff in the K5 Blazer than it did to drive to the range.

My only project CZ. I'm pretty happy with it so far. You could call it my latest CZ, too. Pre B CZ 85 with some frame modifications done by me, sights installed by me, threaded barrel fitted (with some slide modifications to allow the use of a new style barrel) by me. Refinished by Primary Machine. [URL=http://s307.photobucket.com/user/zsrbest/media/IMG_01771_zpse23ofxtm.jpg.html][IMG]http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn298/zsrbest/IMG_01771_zpse23ofxtm.jpg[/IMG][/URL] A CZ P01 Urban Gray I got a couple months ago. Not as accurate as my P07 and P09, but okay, so far. [URL=http://s307.photobucket.com/user/zsrbest/media/IMG_0113_zpskipooeh4.jpg.html][IMG]http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn298/zsrbest/IMG_0113_zpskipooeh4.jpg[/IMG][/URL] My two RMR'd CZ's. The P07 .40 S&W is my EDC and the P09 9MM is a fun range gun and stays by the bed most of the time. Primary Machine did the slide milling, RMR installation, BUIS installation and cerakoting on both of these.

I guess I got lucky when I replaced that spring in my Pre B CZ 85. I put the mag. release spring in place, put the trigger bar lifter spring in place and put the screw in that holds them in place. I tightened the screw down till it pulled the right side leg out away from the frame and then slightly let up on the screw and the leg went back to almost touching the frame. No issues at all. Then again, I have not firing pin block to worry about. I checked the spring legs under the trigger bar and they are sitting in the grooves.