Glk21C

Yes, I've been doing this for a few years myself, works like a champ. In searching the topic I found an obscure mention about this here on enos. The main part was it was something that came from Brandon at SVI. I contacted Brandon and he gladly filled in the blanks. It's so much more economical and IMO better alternative than roll-sizing

I was going to say the same thing, call him.

Grams because his are the best, IMO

I know, there are many on here who run 9x19 without spacers in STI mags; glad it's working for them. This is "why" you shouldn't be able to run 9x19 reliably in an STI 9/38 mag. The STI .38 mag tube has 2 spacing ribs going down each side. The forward rib is located too far forward to make contact with the case of the 9x19 cartridge and does not control the double stack correctly. Loading the round longer does nothing to prevent this as the front edge of the case is still in the same location. The front edge of the case can actually get jammed along the inner surface of the forward control rib. This is why the spacer is needed up the back of the tube, (to push the case forward, and make the forward rib work). A shorter OAL on the cartridge will have to be used, 9x19 at 1.175"OAL works with a spacer.

What bamboo said. When I had my small frame 9x21 open gun I used 1.160 oal. Good luck

It's possible with the jhp 1.235 might be a smidge too long when the round is feeding up the tube. Might be. Try first some at 1.225, might help. There is also the chance the double stack to single stack transition inside the tube is not to spec. Does the tuning guide from Dawson cover that? Good luck, hopefully it's just an oal adjustment.

Better chk your extractor tension. A little to loose will not show up with 140 mags but will definitely rear it's ugly head with a big stick. Good luck.

Fyi, Beven's springs and followers are designed to ride the inner right side of the tube. Start taking material off the right side of the follower and you'll start messing with the intended design that works. Give Beven a call with your question.

I was taught whatever you misplace or lose will be found exactly where you last left it.

try doing some searches, you will find many do.

This is what I did not feel like looking up, the oal of 9x19 because Oal for 9x21 is the same as 9x19. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/9%C3%9719mm_Parabellum

1.160 is what I loaded my 9x21's to with 124rn. I don't load it anymore but I think that is in the range of factory 9x19 oal? I don't feel like Google'ing that right now.....

Bamboo, that is exactly what I did when I had my small frame open gun.

1.253 is a little long for 2011 double stacks. 1.225 is best for 38s, 1.235 for 38sc. They need a little room to move back and forth in the magazine for smoother feeding. His recommendation was not out of line.

Grams crack when installed on a tube where the u-pin does not slide freely. If it does not slide freely it puts undue stress on the rest of the pad. A little squeezing at the bottom of the tube or filing and smoothing is what typically needs to happen. It's almost impossible to get the dimensions/tolerances needed for a tube by welding together the metal.

Grams crack when installed on a tube where the u-pin does not slide freely.

The one tube you mention "could" be a hair out of spec when it comes to the internal width. You need to measure the inside of the tube between the control ribs. The ideal width between the control ribs is 0.740 for typ. Reloaded ammo, no narrower than 0.730, no wider than 0.765 and keep tube square. Too narrow left to right and there is less capacity. Too wide left to right and the rounds can start to stack incorrectly and bind on each other. If needing to squeeze it you have to go further than what is needed for the metal to take a new shape. Need to be very careful to keep it square and take mind of not letting the front and rear bulge out. Good luck

right on the home page of their website. http://www.mbxextreme.com/index.php?page=home

Pin that grip safety ....

Aftec's are NOT drop in parts. Time to time they require "adjustments" that are beyond playing with the included springs. Under the assumption the extractor tunnel is NOT boogered up try tuning a normal extractor (if you have one) first, before messing with the Aftec since the Aftec costs a lot more than a std. extractor. Or buy a std. extractor and adjust as needed as they are not expensive. https://dawsonprecision.com/hand-gun-parts/1911-2011-hicap-all-makes/new-category/?search_query=&page=1&limit=100&sort=featured&page_context=category&caliber=9mm∂=Extractors%2FParts&category=439&is_category_page=1 Good luck

Whatever happened to the OP?

What does reasonable mean to you? Sounds like you've convinced yourself to buy a Caspian you've seen but depending what your definition of reasonable is there might be other choices. Good luck with whatever you find and have fun.

^^^^^

38 Super RL is Armscor brass. If it is truly a 1911 you are building just stick with 38 super instead of super comp. Good luck with your builds.

It might be this https://spspistols.eagleimportsinc.com/spspistols/firearms/sps-pantera-series