SouperMan

The extreme firing pin safety block will work on any extended firing pin, regardless of manufacture. Generally, you will change the firing pin block to the extended version if you are using a one piece sear. To test the function of the firing pin block, pull the trigger (with the overtravel screw off so you don’t get a weird results) and thumb the hammer back. Use a punch to depress the firing pin; it should go in all the way. Next, try to push the firing pin with the hammer at Single Action with no finger in the trigger, it should not move really far. Because of the longer length of the extended firing pin; the extended firing pin block offers a different timing than the standard block (by length of the firing pin block) to get it out of the way. Have you function tested the safety on the gun yet?

I have some numbers for you: Stock Firing Pin: 99.538 Grains, 2.6011 Inches Xtreme Firing Pin: 101.128 Grains, 2.6070 Inches

Frame or internals? I count 3 distinct frame changes (feel free to correct me if anyone finds a error.) Frame one: checkering is aggressive, protruding barrel, beaver tail is larger, trigger guard is thinner. Magazine brake area isn’t milled out. Engraving on slide is cursive. LPA sights. Frame two: checkering is less aggressive, no protruding barrel, beaver tail is smaller, trigger guard is fatter, magazine brake is milled out. Engraving on slide is cursive. LPA sights. Frame three: same as frame two except engraving on slide is in block characters. The sights aren’t LPA anymore, they have are kinda angled. In between the 3 frames, you get changes internally; from the two piece sear to one piece, extended/firing pin block, firing pin (same characteristics as the Xtreme firing pin), and trigger bar (notch/no notch). Lots of stuff to keep track of

Sounds like typical Patriot Defense awesomeness! What were the weird issues you were experiencing on your Stock 2?

@Djp55 How are the fixes coming along? Hopefully you were able to get the info you need to fix up your Stock 2.

I chose the Pro Chrono because the person who taught me to reload used a Pro Chrono. One of the clubs that I shoot at uses a Pro Chrono for Power Factor check. Also, many of the clubs I shoot at use a Competition Electronics Shot Timer (whom make the Pro Chrono; we’ll save the shot timer debate for next time) and I figured I wrong with a Pro Chrono. Many of my friends rely on “use this recipe, and this is the average power factor” but for true peace of mind, especially before a major match I like the confidence and peace of mind of being able to Chrono my own rounds...and being able to get the Chrono to work the first time. So my buddy and I both got Chronos about the same time, I got the Pro Chrono and he got the Caldwell. My buddy had to return his Caldwell Chrono 2 or 3 times; it was getting inconsistent readings or didn’t function at all. He got so desperate that he ended up borrowing my Pro Chrono and returned his Caldwell while waiting for shipping for his own Pro Chrono to be fulfilled. The only issue that I had with my Pro Chrono is making sure the shot lists are correct before I start the testing. I wish that the app allowed you to take a picture of the targets in conjunction with the results. I don’t shoot indoors anymore, but I wish the IR Light kit was a little more battery friendly (you gotta cut wiring and splice stuff). Otherwise, the Pro Chrono has been a rock solid investment.

I do the same thing! The FCD helps rescue a few rounds here and there, but I don’t like using it too much because it can cold swage the bullet.

If you have any doubts, I suggest that you contact Patriot Defense about the Bolo. From what you are describing, you don’t need to make the cut since you have a Gen 1 Trigger bar and should not have a issue. As far as I can tell @PatriotDefense hasn’t made/sent out Gen 2 Bolos yet. I believe when you order you can request the cut if you have a Gen 2 Trigger Bar from them. You don’t need to do all Xtreme parts, more of you can accomplish some good results by following @MemphisMechanic’s disassembly and polish guide. As for the safety not working in what I assume is Double Action, you will need to fit the safety since you changed out to a one piece sear. This involves grinding the leg of the sear which is cheaper to replace than the safety.

Do you notice this happening on a particular mag or is it consistent with all you mags? Also, check to see if you have the K series of mags; earlier initiations of the Tanfoglio mags weren’t so good.

The new LOK Grips are pretty aggressive, thin, and very light.

Did it happen with a particular mag or was it all of your mags? Your OAL isn’t too long to cause a hang up, so I’m thinking it’s the mag.

Break in the gun and have fun! Don’t forget mags and ammo!

There are different grades/viscosities of Slide Glide that should be matched to your climate; make sure you pick the one that is closest to the conditions you normally shoot in and you should be okay. I personally use Brownells Action Lube Plus on the slide rail and sear; anything where there’s tight metal to metal contact.

That crushed silver with metallic blue looks really nice! Almost like a periwinkle. Most USPSA folks I see shoot a Stock 2.

The new trigger bars are causing reset issues with Gen 2 Bolos. Relieving the .020" accounts for the height/dimensions of the new trigger bar which should help reset for Tanfos with the newer trigger bar and a Gen 2 Bolo.

I wonder if the set screw for the trigger overtravel has worn down a bit that it's not allowing for a reset with the magazine pushing up on the trigger bar.

Can you make sure that the 9mm case you are using is the correct length? If it's been loaded for a few times it might stretch out. 9mm headspaces on the case mouth resting on the ledge in the chamber. The length of the case should be .754

Yeah, you should be okay. Just send some rounds down range. It probably needs some rounds and wear on it. I highly doubt you have a worn slide release wire spring or a mag release Spring to be exhibiting these issues. A empty mag and cycling the gun manually almost always has a weird quirk that almost never exists on live fire.

Shoot it and break it. What color is the follower on your Mecgar mags? And the stock CZ? There were issues with older guns with older slidestops and blue Mecgar mags awhile back, but since you said it’s a newer gun you shouldn’t have this particular issue.

That catch screw is normally staked, at least for the SP-01. I believe you can use a low grade loctite on it (purple) because if it's too stuck it will be almost impossible to remove if you strip the head. Edit: CTS has a different spring setup than a regular CZ75. D'oh. Be careful tightening this screw as it can affect the trigger bar support spring; if it's too tight or too loose you will get weird issues with trigger bar function such as failing to reset and stuff.

I also recommend the LOK Palmswell Bogies, they come in a few different colors and replicate the OEM grip widths. Some folks get the CZ RAMI Thin Safties fitted, but what I found that worked with me was getting a extra power thumb safety spring. This increases the amount of force needed to engage the safety, and no external safety change was needed.

Is there a pre-travel screw on the trigger? I had one where if I set it to have zero pre-travel, the hammer would not reset at all. I had to back it out just enough for it to reset, but it left a lot of pre-travel. Another thing to check is to make sure that your trigger bar springs are lined up in the trigger bar channel and is providing enough lift.

Is your intention on converting the gun into Single Action Only? It would involve primarily removing the disconnector. There's already some good info on a similar question in regards to a P-01 in this same forum; I'll see if I can link it. http://forums.brianenos.com/topic/251958-single-action-po1-shopping-list/

I just wrote this yesterday on another post. I feel that the hammer is worth changing specifically to the hammer cuts, changing out the sear and the trigger isn’t going to do much if you want a better trigger pull, either in DA or SA.

If I were you, I’d get the Production Legal Kit and replace the hammer and everything in one fell swoop. Are you trying to go Single Action with the flat trigger? If so, you don’t need the T2 disconnector as this is a Double Action part. The T2 disconnector essentially pulls the hammer into the cocked position when you squeeze the trigger in Double Action. I helped a friend convert his SP-01 to Single action, but we could not get rid of the pretravel as the sear refused to reset in Single Action reliably, so there’s a bit of take-up that honestly should have been left with both DA/SA functionality. Haven’t worked on a decocker model, but perhaps someone can chime in on that functionality.