SouperMan

There’s a company that makes a close second called Lava Grips. https://shop.coppergungrips.com/main.sc

I found that a vise helps to create the gap needed to hammer out the old pins. You could use a punch block as well, but I found it too soft to make any effort to drive the pins out. Installation wise, the Cajun Hammer Pins are slightly oversized and require a little effort to hammer but it went in, IIRC one side of the pin was tapered to aid in installation.

You might need to take a look and possibly clean or replace your Slide Stop Pin Spring.

1) Tanfoglio is the Italian manufacturer of the Stock 2. European American Armory (EAA) is the importer of the Stock 2, but they call it “EAA Witness Stock 2”. I think to meet import requirements the roll mark of the importer needs to be on the frame, hence “EAA Witness.” EAA should use their own stock photos with their own roll mark. 2 & 3) Rockledge, FL used to be the old location of EAA. Cocoa, FL is the present location. This should help date the Tanfoglio a little better. The best way to find out when a Tanfoglio was imported (and possibly get a age on the gun) is to visit http://batf.eaacorp.com/eaalookup/. This website not only tells you the mags you will need to get (Small vs Large Frame), but when the Tanfoglio was imported. There’s about 3 or 4 (maybe more) Stock 2 variations; changes on the frame or slide.

@PatriotDefense had the Unica thin safeties a few months back; I reckon they’ll get more Unica stuff soon.

Even with the use of a roll pin holder punch (it’s a punch that’s hollow but just the right size to hold the pin in place), theres a slight deformation of the Cajun Pin, but so far there are no issues.

Looks like a Tanfoglio T95. There’s a wiki page about it: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tanfoglio_T95

What issues do you speak of? Make sure you get the Mecgar 10rd mags with the blue followers. They are made from the same 17rd bodies but have a permenant indentation preventing you from loading more than 10rds. This also means that you can use the same basepads for the 17rds.

Those are some pretty tight tolerances! How many rounds have you shot through the new bushing?

I wonder if this will be USPSA Production Legal. Begin arguments...now.

Just curious, how did you remove the bushing? I used the socket method and whacked the Bushing out; when my bushing came out it was deformed because of the removal.

Can you take video of the sear assembly in the gun and the safety on? It seems as if the safety isn’t engaging the tab on the sear which is causing the safety to not work. Since you changed out the stuff to Xtreme parts, do you recall having to fit the safety or filing down the sear for things to work?

Very cool project! Curious, how do you rework the beaver tail to make it longer? Does it require brazing on and blending another piece of metal or ?

Check the trigger bar lifter spring to make sure that it’s not caught on the side or out of place on the trigger bar.

While mounted on my Stock 2: -The EGDs measure roughly 1.131”. -The LOK grips measure roughly 1.182” Personally, because of the aggressiveness of the LOK grips they “feel” thinner because of the “bite.”

The LOKs available now are flat. I think they may release some swells in the near future; their CZ Bogies are really nice.

If you like the stock grips, there’s a person on eBay that sells to be what looks like grips molded in some sort of resin based on the stock grips. If you are looking for aftermarket grips, I went with LOK grips and never went back. The LOK grips easily replaced my EGDs.

I’ve had bad luck fixing things on chromed finishes that I’ve given up. I’d leave it; it adds character. Kydex isn’t suppose to mar the “Wonderfinish” but I got faint lines already.

Take a picture of the firing pin, perhaps you might have the wrong extended firing pin? Cajun Gun Works makes 2 different firing pins. One is for the SP-01 with Firing Pin Block and uses a firing pin stop pin, and the other is for The Shadow which uses a plate.

1) No* *If you have the Manual Safety, you must drop it completely. If you have the Decocker, it may be brought to the Half-Cock position. I tried pulling the NROI ruling that explained this but the new website doesn’t have it. 2) Yes

You did this by hand in a apartment, and you made a slide racker from a Dawson Sight Installation Tool; by no means are you a amateur! That’s some good old ingenuity right there! You should drop Dawson Precision a line with your little mod; I’m sure they would get a kick out of it!

Fitting the barrel should go something like this: https://imgur.com/gallery/TMIXx Just take it nice and slow.

That sir, looks like a well loved and enjoyed gun! How close is your slide stop release to the front edge of the mount? It looks super close that you have to cut the mount a little to fit (or it’s just the angle of the photo.)

I always thought and felt that palmswells were the way to go until I held a Tanfo with EGD thin grips. Like most folks; the EGDs felt slippery and I went to LOK as soon as they came out. I was also considering the Henning Thins which has a mag release cut (or is it called a thumb cut out?) but I found that the LOKs were perfect and almost not needed for me. If you are shooting Production, try out the Unica safety since you rarely have to use the safety anyway. I have a friend who kept bumping the safety and it stopped with the Unica. Personally; I always ride my safety with my thumb like a 1911 so it isn’t a problem for me. On another note, to increase friction (which is very apparent when I was using the EGD Grips) I used ProGrip makes the hand chalky for my sweaty palms when I had the EGDs. Now with the LOK; I find that I don’t have to use it as often.

Curious, did your gun come with a one piece sear or a two piece sear before you modified it? If your gun came with a one piece sear from the factory , there shouldn’t be a need to get a extended firing pin block as you should already have one. Not to add to any potential confusion but my frame of reference was from folks still having to deal with two piece sears but Memphis Mechanic is correct, but you have to make sure of the very specific changes that were done by the factory.