SouperMan

The Accu Shadow has the special CZ Custom Barrel Bushing akin to a 1911 style bushing for better lockup and accuracy. It also has a different sight cut I believe. I think the Shadow Custom/Target just has a few mods internally but no bushing. You could get a Cajun 10X bushing as well to help with the barrel lockup, it’s a cheap upgrade at $60 or so.

Not a video, but will these photos help? It’s from CZ Forums. Looks like there is a retention pin for a whole triggerbar/sear package.

The most gain you will get for a crisper trigger is the hammer, specifically the cut of the hammer hooks. With a stock ring style hammer, the hammer cuts are in a way where there is a camming action before the shot breaks. Instead of “letting go” and releasing the hammer when you pull the trigger, the hammer actually travels back (towards the beavertail) a bit before it gets released. Competition/Race hammers or even recut ring hammers minimize/eliminate this. In the grand scheme of things, the stock sear is the “cheapest” part to file down and fit ($20) vs the actual safety assembly ($75+). This can be a tedious process to fit; the Cajun Adjustable Sear is really convenient to have. And it looks shinier and nicer, too.

Wow. I hope you aren’t out of action for too long!

Know anyone local to you who is a rockhound? Silicon carbide is used by them to tumble rocks to make them shiny or into a manageable size. Otherwise, you can purchase a 4lb canister on Amazon for about $12. 4lbs goes a very long way for what you are looking for.

Awesome! Earlier today I had issues, but there was a Tapatalk update for iOS that seemed to have assisted in fixing the issue.

That’s really good to hear! I’ve never had to re-stake or loctite the screw, I’ve always made a note at where the position of the screw head as a visual index as to where it’s suppose to be. I haven’t had one bump up or down. Cajun Gun Works recommends staking the screw and to not use loctite, as stripping the screw head renders removal impossible, but I think you would be okay if you used just a small dab of Purple Loctite, which is a super low strength threadlocker. For subsequent removals, as long as you have a good purchase on the screw head, I think you will be just fine.

CZ really stakes them down good. Get a vise and pad the jaws to hold your frame, and use a really good screwdriver to remove the screw. You are fighting the staking which should be easier than trying to move it seized on the threads. I suppose you could try a old school manual impact driver, but I’ve always had luck with it in a vise.

Cajun Gun Works EZ-D 9-40 Sights. The EZ-D sights are made by Dawson Precision.

You should consider doing the Pro Package yourself! You will learn a lot about the functionality of your gun and it can be done in about a day. I’ve helped friends do theirs, and it takes me about 2-3 hours. Ask for the Production Legal Package and you will be okay for IDPA SSP and USPSA Production Legal. You’ll get a CZ-UB Competition Hammer and a 85C Trigger, which are all SSP And Production Legal parts. If you get the 85C Trigger with the pretravel screw, don’t use it/set the pretravel screw as it’s not production Legal. The overtravel is okay to use. Don’t get the Cajun Race Hammer if you intend to shoot in SSP, it’s made by Cajun and isn’t SSP legal (it is ESP legal, and USPSA Production Legal according to the DNROI ruling.) As for the Reduced Reach Kit, the kit is perfectly legal, as it is a all internal mod; with the T2 disconnector and the firing pin block lifter.

DIY with Cajun Gunworks parts. You'll have a great experience putting it back together and a better understanding of how your gun works.

Just FYI, the Harbor Freight model doesn't use a fan to circulate the warm air to dry the cases. It uses a heating element to heat up but there is no air movement, just natural heat air convection. My buddy saw how I was drying my brass in the winter (in the garage on a towel for a few days) and got me a Presto 06300 from Amazon for Christmas. It doesn't have a shut-off timer but it does have a fan that helps circulate the heated air which aides in drying time. You can upgrade to a more expensive model with a built in timer and all and even control the temp, but I am planning on getting a GE MyTouchsmart Indoor Plug-In Digital Timer that offers a minute/hour countdown timer that will shut the dehydrator off after a preset amount of minutes. I typically run mine for about 30 minutes and all the cases come out dry For 9mm or smaller cases, you will want to get the mesh screens since the built in tray's mesh is large enough to let 9mm and 380 cases fall through.

A 5 Gallon paint strainer and a Lyman Turbo Super Sifter is what I use. I sift the brass and pins over the strainer in a 5 gallon bucket and rarely have to use my FA Media Magnet. Now that Freedom Munitions is doing brass coated steel cases, I have to use the magnet...

I got one of the non-anodized ones and a friend of mine got the black anodized one so I have both to compare. Personally, the black anodized looks asthetically pleasing but according to the Shockbottle website the raw aluminum version is said to be of a tighter tolerance.

You can reload all the ammo you want, but you have to wait 10 days to shoot it. You can only swap dies once every 30 days. Dealers can sell powder-coated bullets as long as they're blue or red. The exact same bullet coated in green is unsafe and illegal to sell. Lee turret presses are okay, as long as they have the original handle. Putting a roller handle on a Lee turret press is a felony, UNLESS you run it in single-stage mode. Not allowed to have a Inline Fabrication Ultra Mount as its a evil feature I'm using a Hornady LnL and just reloading 9mm for now.

Howdy all! I've been shooting IDPA for a year now and making the slow progression to USPSA. I was recommended by a friend to join to forum to soak up knowledge and wow, lots and lots of great, knowledgeable info! Edited to add, I shoot a Glock 17 and also started reloading about 7-8 months ago so looking to help contribute my knowledge.