SouperMan

Only benefit I can remember with the Small Frame is the ability to use CZ mags Large Frames dominate the market because it’s been around/imported by EAA for so long, but now that we have IFG bringing all kinds of goodies from Tanfoglio, it probably won’t really matter. We should see equal amounts of parts availability for Large and Small Frames.

Have you tried using roll pin holder punch? It’s a hollow punch that holds the pin while it starts, and once it goes in just enough, you can finish it with a regular punch. This should prevent the pin from unraveling; it just needs to make it in a little past that point so that it won’t unravel. I’ve used this method to install about 4 Cajun 10X Bushings.

Some folks like the “security” of a firing pin block. I don’t really care, nor am I a pro enough shooter to feel the difference in the trigger. CZ has always had a eye on the SP-01 but it wasn’t for the competition market. When they made the SP-01 Shadow, the competition hammer that comes with it is wider than a regular SP-01. I’d say right after, CZ started making a thin hammer for the regular SP-01s. It’s been awhile since the SP-01 got a refresh, anyways.

Hah. Here’s a question for you: If you are the RO, the shooter in question has shot 2 stages in that start condition. What does the RO do, if anything, about the previous stages? Ponder it, and read the NROI Blog Post here.

The TRS is responsible for some of the resistance you feel when you pull the trigger back (Hammer Spring + Trigger Return Spring). It is also responsible for pushing the trigger back into position (TRS + to a certain extent the Trigger Bar Return Spring). The only way I can describe it is the crispness of the trigger through its whole pull. A trigger can feel too soft, but this boils down to personal preference. Before, I was chasing the lightest trigger possible, and this required the use of Federal primers. I started tuning for Winchester/CCI, and while increasing the hammer spring weight I really enjoyed the heavier trigger pull (went from like 5-6# to like 7-8#) and it was something that I could live with.

Speaking from experience when my Cajun TRS broke at a club match, it was right up there with @Racinready300ex at a little over a year, but I offer this: Consider replacing it before a major match (get a few rounds in though), or as part of a routine consumable part like in a oil and oil filter change for a car. Just my thought, but I grew tired of a mushy trigger, so I went back to the stock TRS.

No experience with them, but I just perused their parts, the McCarbo parts looks very similar to Cajun Gun Works parts; at least the SP-01 metal guide rod, the floating trigger pin, and the firing pin stop pin.

Do you have a P-01 with a Manual Safety, or a P-01 with a Decocker? If you are comfortable doing it yourself, Cajun Gun Works parts can be done at home. The Decocker seems intimidating, but it’s not. Otherwise, apologies in advance but in no particular order Cajun and CZ Custom both do amazing jobs.

I’d check the the pre-travel screw in the trigger, too. From there, I’d check the trigger bar and trigger bar spring, followed bythe trigger bar screw, making sure the screw isn’t too tightened down that it’s not lifting or the trigger bar is actually lifting. I’d also check the trigger return spring, just in case.

Check your Sear Spring. It might be too weak to reset the seat. Next, I would check your hammer and sear itself to ensure there’s no rounding of the material. Should almost be a sharp edge.

Henning Extended Basepads, Grams Spring and Follower is what most USPSA shooters use. Works really well, and make sure you test for reliability. I ended up just getting the Mec-Gar with baked in extended +3 basepads for my SP-01 because it looks OEM, but that’s more of a aesthetic than anything.

How many rounds do you have? Check the Sear Spring; that can also lead to hammer follow if it’s not lifting the sear in time/properly.

It might be the Sear Spring. It might be too weak. Also, I also want to say it might be the triggerbar spring, but you say it’s ok in Double Action so the triggerbar spring might not be the issue.

The "Auto-Forward" feature is not a guaranteed function, but it's a nice thing to have. I believe it has to do with houw the slide stop interacts with a loaded mag versus a empty mag on insertion. It doesn't take a lot of force to insert the mag to have the slide into battery; I mean if you baby handle the reload it won't go into battery. As for the ejection of brass, as long as it's not dribbling out and not clearing or stovepiping, you are ok. Based on your description, your gun is ejecting brass OK.

You need a Large Frame Slide for a Large Frame Tanfoglio. Unfortunately you can’t fit a Small Frame Slide on a Large Frame.

Check the Sear Spring, it's the cheapest fix. I've had this exact thing happen before and thought it was the Hammer and Sear, but after going through each part with a magnifying glass, my friend recommended the Sear Spring, and sure enough it was.

I set both for reliability. No sub-2 pound triggers, in both but I replaced the firing pin stop pin with the CGW roll pin, extended firing pin, and short reset trigger. I went with a comp hammer on the SP-01, and kept the stock hammer on the P-01.

Yep. I like to maintain a consistent platform. CZ 75 SP-01 and P-01

That’s pretty cool! Thank you for sharing! I can’t tell, but does it have a import mark from “Oakhurst, California”? CZ USA started of in all places California before they moved to Kansas City.

What model CZ? What’s the mileage on the hammer spring? Usually if everything works, it might be the overlooked parts. Springs are usually the first to go.

What screws are you using? I had issues with the stock screws that came with the wood grips with no matter how much loctite I applied. I got the EGD Xtreme Grip Screws which work really well and doesn’t back out out a small blob of loctite. They work great on both LOK grips and Henning.

Did you replace the firing pin block lifter? Maybe I’m confusing parts, but I thought you had to do this if you replace the firing pin because of the extended length. The firing pin block lifter needs that additional extra time to lift to clear. Maybe it’s old guidance, but I’ve remember piecemealing the parts when Cajun didn’t have a complete set ready to go

Check the sear assembly, firing pin block lifter, and the sear cage pin to see if it’s moving freely. My firing pin block lifter in my CGW Kit was half a hair too thick, and it had the hardest time fitting in the sear cage pin; and when you pulled the trigger, the block lifter stayed up. The parts in the sear cage shouldn’t be binding to that pin holding everything together. Also, check the hammer strut for any burrs that might cause the hammer spring to bind.

The SP-01 Tactical has a decocker that lowers it to half cocked position. There are no additional rules to lower the hammer further if you have are using a decocker.

That’s a spicy looking Hammer from Cajun Gun Works!