Dranoel

This was one of the reasons I never adopted the high, canted support hand grip. Between the tip of my trigger finger rubbing the palm of my left hand, accidentally popping mags and the mechanics of it just being wrong, I gave it up after a very short trial.

Folgers original. Though on the road I find Pilot Colombian to be a pretty close match.

Briley makes a cone adapter that works well. I believe Clark does as well.

Honestly, I was expecting just the opposite of what I heard, for the most part. And what I heard was pretty much what I've been saying for a long time: Relax, grip the gun firmly but neutral. The gun is going to move. You're going to get muzzle flip. I don't want to stop the flip, I just want to keep it from flipping the gun out of my hands. I don't care if the muzzle raises 4 inches and does a figure 8. What's important to me is that when the slide cycles and locks into battery the sights are where they were when I fired the shot. You will only get that with a neutral grip. If you are pushing harder with your right hand or pulling harder with your left the sights won't return to where they were and you have to adjust. Also if you grip it all too hard then your whole body tends to tense up and that not only throws everything off, it makes it harder to move quickly.

Most of the guns I got rid of were because I built something better, not because of switching divisions. Most of the ones I got rid of were either worn out (as competition guns) or just not good enough for me. I quit shooting IHMSA when my father's eyes started going bad, but I still have my Dan Wesson revolvers.

There is no such thing as common sense when it comes to guns. People do stupid things with them every day. We ALL learn gun safety one of two ways: Either someone (like my grandfather) drilled it into your head until you were terrified if you screwed up you were gonna get a heavy hand to the back of the head. Or you learned the hard way from doing something stupid.

I did it years ago. I'll let him figure it out for himself.

Making up misses will NEVER be faster than making sure you don't miss.

If you are calling your shots after the bullet has left the barrel, all you are doing is watching for misses. If you have your fundamentals down and you are indexing properly, sight confirmation takes 1/1000 sec. If the shot isn't good and I adjust, it takes 1/10th of a sec. How much time does your miss cost? It's not about "aiming hard". It's about the sights being on target when the gun stops on it. KNOWING the shot was good when you SQUEEZED it, not when it's TOO LATE to do anything about it. From Steel and Bowling pin experience: (and yes, I know you're talking USPSA but it's the same principal) If I draw on the first pin and fire before I see a good sight picture and miss, it will take me at least 3/10 sec to shoot it again and now I'm hurrying the shot and more likely to miss the second shot on it. If I take the 1/10 sec to adjust if needed, I don't need to make a second or third shot. I've seen even the Pros fall into that trap. Miss one target and then fire 3 shots at the last pin or stop plate. I'd be willing to bet you, if you take the time to call your shot AS you fire it instead of AFTER, you'll find yourself scoring better.

It's not on the north side but The Royal Range is one of the best ranges in the country as well as one of the best training facilities I have ever seen. A true 5 star range. It's just on the west edge of Nashville, right off I-40.

While looking for 185 gr .45ACP ammo at Cabela's: Me: Is 230 gr the only thing you stock for .45ACP? Employee: Real men only shoot the heaviest loads. 'Sides your gun won't cycle properly with the lighter stuff. Me:?

My Grandfather and I did a lot of shooting when I was a boy, Later my Father and I went to the range together most of the time and shot matches together. When he got glaucoma and couldn't shoot anymore, I lost a lot of my interest in it for a while. Now he's gone and I want to get back to competing but my job prevents it. So when I get a chance I go shoot with my Son and I feel better about it. And right now, I'm just hoping I live long enough to teach my Grandson how to shoot.

I had about three til you made me think about it. ?

My guns get field stripped and cleaned after every range visit. Complete strip down and cleaning every 3-4 mo or if I feel anything odd in the lockworks. Case lube? Never used it on straight wall cases. I use carbide dies.

This. Absolutely. Practice strong hand only and do it while moving. If you can keep a steady sight picture walking strong hand only, it will be that much easier when you have two hands again. Start slow, focus on the sights and keep them straight as you move. Start going three or four steps, forward, backward, right, left, with one target. Keep the sights straight and centered on the target. And be honest with yourself, that's the only way you improve. If you are seeing the sight go out of alignment, call it a fail and start again. When you get good with it, add two more targets and transition targets as you are moving. And keep speeding it up. You'll be surprised at just how well you do when you have two hands again. Meanwhile, get some large Nerf balls and squeeze them alternating fingers. Not so much to build strength, but to keep the muscles from atrophy and keep them limber. This makes it easier to get the strength back once you lose the plaster sleeve.

If you are running a comp, it relies on gas pressure to operate effectively. The higher the pressure, the better it works. So why bleed off pressure before the comp where it's most effective?

So, you actually learned to use the mill for doing it? For me, that would be worth the money all on its own. Still, good to know how to fit one up by hand as well.

I'd say 4 days of hands on instruction from a top pro is well worth $1200. Though truthfully I would rather do Piatt's class as I know what frame and slide I'd be starting with.

I went the opposite direction. Been a 1911 man since I was 12. Just bought a CZ75 TS .40. Already had it all apart making it better. But now you own the top two pistols in the world, How could you go wrong? Welcome to Club.

I have a slide ride J-Point on my .38 super. Dot moving with the slide was never a problem for me. Stop watching the dot when the gun is cycling. You should be looking at the target at that point.

The way we learn best is by doing. Carry on with your studies.

The trigger on my .45 (my build, not a professional GS) is 22oz. and 3/32 pull length (1/32 take-up, 1/16 sear). It is nearly 5 yrs old and has somewhere around 4500-5000 rounds through it without a single part replacement. I'll make a video of this if you like, but I just slingshotted the slide 30 times with the trigger pulled back, then did it another 30 times without my finger on the trigger. Anyone want to guess which way had the most hammer follows? I won't keep you in suspense. It was a tie. At ZERO. Again, I'm not a pro gunsmith. I've built a couple dozen 1911s over the past 30 years. And I won't claim to be a supreme authority on the workings of them. But if an amateur like me can build a 1911 that will take 60 slide drops with no magazine in the way, let alone stripping ammo, without a single hammer follow, I would expect a pro to do at least as well.

No one is getting personal, here. And I am unsure of just what truth it is we don't want to hear.

If that was the case then what would be holding the hammer back until you released the trigger? When the disconnector drops it disengages from the sear. That allows the sear's leaf on the sear spring to push the sear back into engagement with the hammer. The sear is ready to catch the hammer hooks before the slide is even fully rearward. But because the disconnector is still down nothing is able to engage the sear on the trigger side. On a standard sear spring there are three leaves. The left is for the sear only, the middle acts on the disconnector and the trigger, the right is for the grip safety.

The difference in slide velocity stripping a round is minimal. It is not going to be the difference between your sear being damaged or not.