Dranoel

I understand what you are saying. Yes, the trigger is disconnected when the slide goes back. But it's not the trigger itself we are worried about damaging. It's the sear tip and hammer hook and their interfacing surfaces. But the disconnector has no bearing on that. The disconnector disconnects the trigger from the sear so the sear can engage the hammer when the slide clears it and the hammer starts to drop. At that point the trigger AND disconnector stay in their respective positions until the trigger is released. The disconnector doesn't reset until the trigger does because they are on the same leaf of the sear spring. So the only time the disconnector has ANY effect on the sear is when you squeeze the trigger. Once the disconnector is pushed down that's it. The sear is not effected by it. And if you are using a Clark 4 finger sear spring, the disconnector WILL reset but it still has no effect on the sear until you release the trigger that IT resets. All that said, leaving your finger off the trigger when the slide slams forward is not going to effect the sear/hammer engagement unless we are talking about a Gov't issue M1911A1 with an all steel trigger that weighs half an ounce. I can see that potentially bouncing at hitting the sear with enough force, especially with a 2lb trigger to trip the sear and let the hammer fall to half cock. But how many of those are you going to find in a modern 1911/2011? Modern triggers, even with an full aluminum, unskeletonized trigger pad don't weigh 1/4 what an all steel one does. Trigger forward or back, the sear still engages the hammer the same way and THAT is what takes the beating when the slide hits home.

Thing is, the trigger is disconnected from the sear, but the sear is NOT disengaged. After the round fires, the slide starts rearward and the trigger disconnected before the empty case is clear of the chamber. That allows the sear to reset end engage the hammer hooks. Same as racking the slide and locking it or slingshotting it. At that point the trigger has no bearing on that engagement whether all the back or all the way forward. The sear/hammer engagement is going to take the exact same hit whether firing or dropping and regardless of the trigger position. As for light trigger setups being more susceptible, Yes, I can see that, especially knowing how some smiths achieve it. I just got rid of a Kimber Custom TLE II that had a trigger job done by a "certified" gunsmith. Trigger pull was still above 3lbs and I still got hammer follow with it. The reason for that was that he had ground the hammer hooks off until there was barely any engagement at all. I'll admit, it felt pretty damn nice. But the hammer followed dropping the slide every time and it followed 1 out 5 times firing it. Wrong way to do a trigger job. I've also seen some pretty nice triggers done with stock parts. But when those parts are inferior, they damage easier. I know who you are and I respect your work and I respect your opinion. In this case, however, I don't think you are fully considering what is where at all points of the slide cycle. Consider for a moment what happens in the lockwork when the slide goes back, I think you will see that whether under recoil or hand pulled, it's all the same. And when the slide slams closed, empty, loaded, dropped or recovering from fired rounds, trigger forward or back, there is no difference in the engagement of the sear and hammer or the hit they take in the process.

BINGO!!

Was at the range about a year ago shooting next to an Aux. Police officer with a Glock .45 (whatever that model is) and was shooting 230gr ball. He asked me about my 1911 and what I was shooting, because it didn't seem to recoil as badly. I showed him my box of 155gr LSWCs and he asked if he could try some. I said sure. He loaded a mag and the first one jammed on the feed ramp. So did the second. And every one after. Only way he could get them to chamber was to drop the round into the chamber and drop the slide. Then he couldn't believe that my 1911 would feed them because Glocks are so much more reliable. I loaded a mag and fired them all without a hitch. Then just to drive my point home, Ioaded another mag with empties off the floor and cycled the slide. Fed and ejected all of them without a hitch. He didn't want to talk to me anymore. ?

And "It's a slide LOCK not a release." If it wasn't meant to release the slide, why is there a thumb pad on it? If it was just supposed to be a lock, they could have made it entirely internal. Honestly, if I ever bought a firearm that I had to baby and treat gently, it wouldn't be in my possession very long.

Machine to interference fit, finish by hand.

When you fire, the slide goes back, cocking the hammer and holding it until the slide moves forward. Once the slide clears the hammer, the hammer will fall and be caught by the sear. Same as dropping the slide on an empty chamber. As I said, there is no function you can perform manually that will hurt it more than firing it.

There is NOTHING that you can do, functionally, that is more stressful or harmful to your pistol.... Than FIRING it.

And it takes 10 minutes while everyone is rolling on the floor laughing before you realize it.

LOL "It's a trick. Get an axe."

Those toes require sandals.

Where your sights were when you squeezed the trigger is what you need to learn to see. Knowing where the bullet went after it left the barrel isn't going to help you. Know where it is going before you squeeze and don't squeeze til you KNOW it's going where you want.

I'd be worried that is contagious and I might get from just touching that gun. ?

Grip firm as a respectful handshake, arms enough to hold the gun up and steady on target. Anything more than that and you pull the out of position under recoil and have to adjust on your next shot. Get tensed and all your movements will be slower.

Looks like a Hercules can. That's about all I can see.

I've had two Kimbers now. Wasn't impressed with either of them. Action felt like rubbing two bricks together and the triggers were horrible. Maybe I'm spoiled by my own builds, but I just found them unacceptable for the money I paid for them. Just traded my Custom TLE II 10mm for a CZ75 TS .40.

This is something I have talked about here before. Basic Shooting Fundamentals. Stance, grip, trigger control, sight picture. In THAT order. Your stance dictates your grip to a large extent, and your grip dictates your trigger control to a large extent. When I find my accuracy slipping, 9 times out of 10 I can trace it back to getting lazy with my stance. I work on that for a few mags and my groups tighten up. As someone else said it is the prerequisite to the more advanced techniques. You really do have to master those before you can move on successfully. And there will be times even when you reach master level that you need to go back and revisit those fundamentals. So how do you find the perfect grip? It ain't an easy process and it can take years. One thing I will tell you right off the bat is stick to the same platform. If you are shooting 1911s, Glocks, CZs, M&Ps and everything under the sun every time you go to the range you are NEVER going to get comfortable with any of them and they will all start to feel weird. Pick one that feels good to you and stick with it. Then practice with it. A LOT. Especially dry fire. Dry fire. Put a target paster on the wall, step back 10 feet, and draw to that paster. When the gun comes between your eye and the target, freeze. don't adjust where the gun is aimed just freeze and look. Look at where the gun is aimed. Are the sights dead on? If not pay very close attention to how and how far they are off. Now adjust your grip til the sights are aligned perfectly. Don't just bend your wrists to get there, that's what we're trying to eliminate. What will it take to get to that every time on the draw? Is it just a matter of how you wrap your fingers around the grip? Where you position the heel of your strong hand? And your weak hand. Or do you need to relieve part of the grip? Or fill in?See if you can find grips or other parts that do that. But the ultimate goal is to get to where anytime you bring your gun between your eye and the target, the sights are already aligned when it gets there. No adjustments. Gun stops on target and you fire the shot. It has to be natural and automatic.

Terrence Hill and Henry Fonda in one of the best westerns ever made.

No worries. I just laugh at the irony of the title every time I see it.

Ok. So looks like I'm stuck with it for the next 20 yrs. If I live that long.?

Is there a way to change my "Title"? Almost seems insulting when you consider that I have stated several times here that I don't wait to see the sights lift.

I like mine aggressive enough that it won't slip in sweaty hands but not so much so that chews my hands up in the process. On 1911s I prefer Pachmayr Grippers with the wrap-around replaced by grip tape and a checkered MSH. On others I experiment with different combos till I find something that works.

Really? I had a '76 Ford Elite with a 460 4bbl and a 4/11 rear that averaged around 14. You had a 350 and only got 8-9? ?