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I have MBX 140 and 170 in 40, and 155 and 170 in 9mm. All run 100%. I also have some STI Gen 2 mags. They required tuning. I also replaced everything but the tubes with TTI parts. I use them for Classifiers, and any time I have to drop a mag in mud or dust. If you drop them a lot you'll have to tune the lips every now and then. After three years of being dropped on rocks, gravel and dirt I imagine my MBX mags will require tuning at some point. So far so good.

A well regarded bullet maker, now retired, once told me you never can tell. He said that with lead bullets, generally .001" over bore diameter was the most accurate. He also said that sometimes bore diameter was the best. You don't know until you try. Some coated bullet makers size first then coat. So there nominally .356" bullets are actually larger than that. Most size after coating. I don't expect you will see any problems with .356" in the Legion. An overly large diameter coated bullet can cause leading if some of the coating is scraped off when it is squashed to bore diameter. My suggestion is to order .356" and .357 bullets and test. Then decide. BTW, you have to measure the slug at various points around the diameter. Many barrels are not perfectly round.

Generally speaking, a lead or poly coated bullet should be .001"in diameter larger than the bore. Since 9mm barrels range from .355" to .359", you have to slug your barrel to determine size. Autocomp is not unduly smokey. It is the coated bullets. I don't know anyone loaded coated for Open that doesn't smoke. Plus it leaves lead and crud in the comp. I'll only shoot heavy copper plated or JHPs through my Open guns. I have 8000 rounds of major through my newest Open gun and I can still see the machining marks in the bottoms of the ports.

The TSO just feels clunky and square. There is a high spot on the backstrap where, in 1911 terms, the grip safety and the main spring housing meet. That digs into my hand and feels uncomfortable. My TS grip reduction is much smoother and rounder in that area. With LOK thin Boogies I'm up high on the gun and can still release the mag without altering my grip. That is exactly why I did the grip reduction.

The Evo grip does not feel like a CZ to me. Cheely's e2 grip is way closer. I have a full race CZ TS with grip reduction, slide lightening and CWG internals. I'm tempted to put it up for sale to buy one of these. I build my own 1911s and 2011s so this would be easy to mod, or repair.

Agreed. At one club two matches ago the MD specifically called that out in the match briefing. Someone had been DQ'd at a match he attended for just that. He told everyone to be careful about that, because some ROs don't know that. There are no cases in USPSA, so the issue doesn't come up. We now tell everyone using those triangular cases not to unzip them all the way. You can still easily get the gun out or put it in. Then when you go to zip it, your fingers are not near the muzzle. Once at a Level II match I was shooting RFPO with a 1911 and a conversion, holstered. On one stage I was told 'hammer down and holster. I dropped the hammer manually and the RO objected. He told me I had to point it at the berm and pull the trigger. I told him that was not required for rimfire. He said because I was wearing it in a holster I had to do it that way. He went and got the MD, who agreed with him. Now I carry a copy of the rule book with me to every match. Right now the most common infraction is ROs not requiring hammer down before flagging a PC. I've had to correct several, including at a Level II match. When I RO I get a lot of guff about that. I say so what, it's a rule, do it.

Yes, and just as big a bummer is getting DQ'd while zipping it. SCSA Rule 8.1.1.6 is pretty clear. DO NOT touch the gun when zipping the case, or you risk sweeping yourself. That problem is mostly with pistols and triangular cases.

To find out if it is the thumb safety or not, simply move your thumb out away from the safety and rest it on your other hand. Fire away. If it still happens you know it isn't the TS. So work on your grip, download the mag and try a lighter weight recoil spring. You might also try changing lube. I had one Open gun that required a relube after every two stages, or it acted like yours. I switched to Weapon Shield CLP and that problem vanished.

I mis-spoke above. I should have said all three clubs require you to bring any firearm 'that isn't holstered' to the table in a zipped case.

Personally, I would use your N310 in the 45. It is horribly temperature sensitive, at least in light loads, so be careful when you develop your load. I originally used it for my bullseye load under a 200gr LSWC. In August recoil was harsh. In January it would barely operate the slide. SDs were horrible unless you were at or above the max load in the VV reloaders guide. A much better powder is Aliant e3. It exhibits no spikeyness at max and has no temperature sensitivity. It loads like Clays. I use it for 45 and 40. I haven't tried it yet in 9, but others swear by it for 9. I just acquired my first 9mm that isn't an Open gun, so I'll try it in that.

Yes. The disadvantage of the CZ hinged trigger is the pull weight varies depending on where your finger is on the trigger bar. Also, if you are slapping the trigger as in run gun, there is a tendency to pull the gun down. Every time I shoot my TS I have to make an adjustment. I'm the opposite of you. I'm so used to my 1911s and 2011s the TS trigger (a straight CGW bar) feels weird.

My hand size is evidently the same as jmac's. The S2 grip is the smaller of the three, but I find it comfortable. I do not like the TSO grip. It does not fit my hand. It is uncomfortable. My TS grip was too large for me, even with thin grips. It was the front to back distance I didn't like. So I did a grip reduction. I sanded off the checkering, undercut the trigger guard and deepened the beavertail. Strips of very thin grip tape on the front and back straps and LOK thin Boogies lock the gun in even with sweaty hands. Every TSO user who tries my gun prefers the grip.

If I were running a short barrel with four poppels, I'd be looking at a lot slower powder. IMO poppels are great for flatness, but I want the comp to work to. I like flat AND soft.

I think this has a lot to do with where you shoot. Every club I shoot as has restrictions. At one club, firing a shot one second after 4 PM results in a $1000 fine and a trip before the Board. Termination is the typical result. Most clubs have a no shooting after dusk policy. So in Nov thru Feb you really have to hustle to finish before dusk.

Yes. However, some don't seem to get enough and they stick a little in the neck expander. Not a big deal. When I was buying them from another source that did not apply wax I had to put them in my vibratory cleaner and run them for 30 minutes.

I solved that problem by buying fully processed once-fired brass from Ammobrass. All stepped and crushed cases are removed. They are then resizes, primer pocket swaged, roll sized, cleaned in SS media, dried and a light coating of wax is applied. I buy them in lots of 6000 and they cost under 4 cents each including shipping. 40 S&W is even less. I have had zero failures of any type in the last 8000. It really saves your arm, because the hardest station is decapping/resizing. BTW, 100% of the finished rounds drop into and out of the Shockbottle gauge. I won't go any other way now, except for 45 ACP. I have a lifetime supply of once-fired, same head stamp brass for bullseye.

Absolutely.

GMP, you bought a 2-port comp, so that is going to limit what you can do. The ideal load is to make enough gas to work all the comp ports/baffles with almost none of it exiting the front of the comp. That will be the softest and flattest. Any more gas than that and it jets out the front and increases recoil. Any less than that and you do not get as much softening as you could. It will hit your hand harder. You can start out with a mid range PF, but I think you will end up going lower. Bullet choice plays a part. For minor and a 115, the slow powders like Major Pistol, AA7 and 3N38 are too slow unless you want to be up around 150+PF. They may be perfect for a 124, just because you need less powder, so less gas. For 115s I'd go with something like AutoComp, Silhouette or CFE. Power Pistol is around AutoComp burn rate, so start with that. BE-86 is a little faster. Load up a ladder with each weight bullet and powder. Hold the muzzle a couple of inches away front of a no shoot target and fire. When you start to get more than a little splattering of debris on the white, the load is a little too hot. Back off the powder charge a tad and you'll be right where you want to be.

And it fits in a regular holster, unlike the Max. Maxes are all Series 80 and need trigger work (not hard to do). PMs are all Series 70, so for the same money I'd go PM9 or 45.

You just answered your question. You like 9mm, so buy a Dan Wesson PM9. They are currently running $1375 to $1400+ depending on who is selling them. Then experiment with 10 round mags to see what works. Second choice would be a 1911 in 40 S&W or 45 ACP. You can buy remanufacrured minor and major 40 quite reasonably. Tripp makes 10 round mags that work. I love 45 ACP. Store bought ammo will be more expensive than 9mm, but you get to shoot major. This is what I'd buy if I didn't reload. https://www.laxammo.com/lax-factory-new/handgun-new/45-acp-new/lax-ammunition-factory-new-45-auto-185-gr-flat-point-detail As far as pistols go, and of the Springfield Armoury pistols are nice for the money. You get forged slides and frames and a match barrel. They do use MIM internals, but they are good ones. The DW Pointman 45 is always a good choice. For the extra money your get really good internals.

Make a ladder and try it out. I'm guessing you will need between .6 and .7gr more under a 115. That is based on my pistol.

The Tacsol springs looks just like all the other recoil springs for conversions. Maybe some of your buddies are running other conversions and you can check out their springs. CW Accessories sells 7 and 8 lb springs. https://www.cwaccessories.com/ Marvel Precision sells 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10 lb springs. https://www.marvelprecision.com/compensators second picture down. Nelson Custom sells 9 lb springs. https://www.nelsoncustomguns.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=15 Good luck.

Yes. They shoot quite well. I bought 2000 of the 124s and loaded them minor for steel challenge. Before that I was shooting the same bullet in Everglades remanufactured ammo. I may go back to a 19 and see what that does. I had to go to a 17 to get the slide to cycle with minor loads. Now that the gun is more broken in, I'll try.

The only time I had light strikes was when I bought a used gun as a backup. The owner was running a Ti FP, 15 lb. mainspring and WSPs. I changed out the FP to a SS one and put in a 17 lb. mainspring. Zero issues after that. I run that setup in every 1911 and 2011 I own. Everything goes bang.

I only use CCI 500 primers. I found early on the CCIs returned better SDs than the WSPs. His CCIs are a little flat because he went to 10.7gr. At 10.2, I get no flattening with CCI at all. He is also using Montana Gold bullets. They are slower than the HAPs and PDs I use, so the pressure will be a little higher. True, but you will still need more powder so you'll get more spillage. I don't understand why anyone would put holes way back from the comp. You lessen the flattening effect.