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Hundreds of shooters have, including me. I like it better than my Alpha-X and Race Master holsters. I'll keep one of them for my CZ TS. Everything else work perfectly in the Everglades. Tip: if you shoot a heavy gun you WILL need the optional thigh pad.

My last case of CCI AR Tactical is not as reliable as the previous ones. Now I get a FtF at least once a match. Previously it had been once a thousand or so. So I tried a bunch of new ammo. Eley ammo always goes bang in all three of my 22s. So I bought a bunch of Force and Contact. I also tried the new CCI Clean ammo. The Clean ammo did not work at all in two of my guns (both 1911 45s with conversions). Both had match chambers and the thick coating prevented the round from chambering completely. I could cock the hammer and fire again, but it mostly took 2 or 3 tries before the hammer strikes push the bullet in far enough to fire. They worked 9 times out of 10 in my race Buckmark. I gave the rest away. The Eley Force is one hot round. If your conversion is a Marvel Unit One or a Nelson, you definitely do not want to use Force in them. Slide action, even with the red spring is so violent, you batter them. Force works fine with the HD spring and buffer in my Chet Whistle custom upper, but the rough case causes extraction problems when the gun gets dirty. Using the old bullseye trick of putting a line of oil on the top round in the mag cures that. Contact works perfectly. Aguila is unreliable. SH Standard + works perfectly in the Marvel.

I only shoot 115 JHPs for major. I bought 2000 124 JHPs to try them out, but didn't manage to develop a load I liked. My gun runs two 3/16" poppels and a 4-chamber, 5-port comp, so I need a lot of gas. I run 10.2gr Major Pistol under my 115s. Whether you will like 115s is an open question. It depends on your gun, your load, and how you want the gun to feel when shooting. If you already have a lot of gas jetting out the front of the comp, you will definitely not like 115s. If your comp is not being 'worked' fully, 115s will be softer and flatter. Powder choice is a big factor. If you are currently using fast (for Open) powders like WAC and Silhouette, you can make more gas by going to HS-6 (dirty), AA7 or Major Pistol. Stay away from VV powders. You'll have capacity problems with 115s in a 9mm case.

Rainier (no longer available), X-Treme, Montana Gold and a couple of poly coated options. I really liked the Gen 1 Precision bullets. The Gen 2 are also good. Rainier, MG and Precision were the most accurate in my gun.

Of the four brands I have used, I strongly prefer the ProChrono Digital, with a Bluetooth adapter, or built in. It is by far the most forgiving chrono, and even works well for shotshells if you are 8' away. Calipers are a different story. You can get by with a good $30 set from China. Just be aware that the rack teeth are not as precisely machined as the quality ones. So you may be off by .002" or .003" at a particular measurement, unless you have calibrated them for a specific measurement. Dial calipers have an additional source of error by up to .001" per rotation of the hand. If you are interested in accuracy to .001", spend the $90~$150 it takes to get it.

Sorry. My Everglade holster functions identically to the Universal Gen 2 in the video. I think your info is out of date.

No, it isn't. Neither the Universal or the Eveglades looks like that. The only thing similar is the block. The first fraction of an inch should be straight up. After that, no restriction.

This ^^^^. My major load was 3.7gr e3 under a 180 for 172PF at 1.126" OAL. I used a 155 for minor. 140PF. Same POI. Same recoil spring.

If you run your gun wet, you get a lot. With the proper amount of lube it is barely noticeable, if at all.

No. The Universal came before. Everglades was asked to copy it when no longer available. There are differences. For example, the Everglades requires modification for use with Cheely e2 grips. The Universal does not.

About a middle sensitivity works best for me. It picks up mouse fart and uncompensated 22 rimfire pistols and rifles just fine, without requiring you to hold the timer close to or in front of the shooter. When I RO I count shots. So far I haven't gotten any false positives from echos.

I think it depends on what you use. Springs are cheap, so condition them and replace at will. That being said, I've used the same MBX mag springs and followers for two seasons and they still work like new. Change you mainspring when your trigger pull weight starts to drop. Change your plunger tube spring when operating the safety gets easier. I'll note the ISMI plunger tube springs don't last as long as Wolff. Change the FP spring every time you do a full breakdown for a thorough cleaning. I break mine down to individual parts every 5000-6000 rounds. Change recoil springs when you feel like it. Change Aftec springs when the case don't get thrown as far (about 15,000 rounds). Sear springs don't seem to wear out. Just retension them, or replace every major tear down. Springs are cheap. At every major tear down examine every part closely and under magnification. Repair or replace any deficiencies.

Az, the best, most consistent bullets you can shoot are almost always JHPs, not FMJs. They don't lead and are generally more accurate. Your next decision will be bullet weight. For minor you want 135 or 155gr. I prefer 155s. For major you have more choices. I started out loading 180s for major, only because that was what almost everyone else was using. A friend swore by 155s so I tried some. I finally settled on 165s as being the best compromise between softness and slide action. The sights return more quickly with the 165s. They are even faster with the 155s, but it hits your hand harder. Have fun experimenting.

ink, the deal with H Clays is it is seriously spikey when near max. Since you have a lot of it, load low pressure and see if you like it. Use it for practice loads. A very similar powder, a touch slower with none of the spikey characteristics of Clays is e3. It also has no temp sensitivity. If you load 45 ACP, I'd save the Clays for that and use something else for 9mm. BTW, you cannot just go by the burn speed of a powder. For instance, Bullseye is a fast powder that works well in 9mm, with no kabooms. It's the burn characteristics you have to worry about.

I'm a single action guy, and everyone I shoot with knows it. I rib them a lot for shooting plastic guns. Well, I drew an XD-9 4" from the prize table at the East Coast Steel Championship match. I was not excited and assumed I'd sell it. A friend who owned one said the gun was great, but I would hate the trigger. The gunsmith who was going to ship it to my FFL suggested a PRP Ultimate Match Trigger kit. He said all of his were great. So I told him to put it in. He did and shipped the gun to my FFL. It had a note in it that read 6.5 lb. factory, 3.5 lb. with kit. It is smooth and can be drawn back for the first shot without disturbing the sights. The reset is short, extremely positive and the second shot is a dream. I'll probably keep the pistol now. I'm not suggesting it is 1911 good, but for a striker fired gun, it is easily the best I've tried. The closest was a custom trigger job done by Dave Olhasso on a friend's M&P. All the drop in kits for Glocks and M&Ps my friends tried were junk IMO.

a, I thought you were sticking with CZ for everything.

I started with a DAA RaceMaster and moved to an Alpha-X. It is a comfortable holster with compromises. I got tired customizing or changing blocks to accomodate different grips. I went with an Everglades holster. I had to make a very simple and quick mod to accommodate one of my guns, and now one holster works perfectly with my poly grip guns, all steel grip guns and my custom 1911 Open gun for SCSA.

Atlas has their slides made by others, supposedly to their specs.

Warwick Tactical is another if you want a bald or tri-topped slide with or without serrations.

chgo, here is the scoop. The fastest powder you want to use is CFE or Autocomp. That is about the speed powder that Everglades uses for their major load. Next down the speed chart is HS-6. It's really dirty. You can use N350, 3N37 or 3N38, but you will have capacity problems. Plus, powder will spill out of the case when it rotates to the next station. They are also expensive, so I'd simply forget them. Last comes AA& and Major Pistol powder. They are as slow as Blue Dot or Longshot, but meter and shoot better. Major Pistol is dense and doesn't fill the case up. Plus it is compressible. My major load is CCI 500, 10.2gr Major Pistol under a 115gr Hap/PD/Everglades @ 1.161" OAL for 168PF. It is not even a compressed load. Bullets: most Open shooters shoot 124s because they don't want to put up with powder spilling on the press. If you stay with AA& or MP, that is greatly reduced. I shoot 115s because I have two poppels and an efficient comp. So I want enough gas to work them. There is not enough powder under a 124 to work my gun properly. Heavy plated or JHPs will not lead up your comp. FMJs and poly coated will. Pressure: with the faster powders (CFE, WAC) you are way over SAAMI specs. If you are loading long and don't get any setback, it is safe. Using slower powders and loading long gets you back under, or only a little over SAAMI spec. That, plus I need a lot of gas is why I use the slower powders.

No it isn't. I shot 40 major for years and never had a setback problem. The Lee Carbide crimp die does an outstanding job of crimping the bullet. So much so that when you need to pull one it's a PITA. Just ask the guys at the chrono station.

I don't understand this. If the hood is .008" short and the sides have clearance, the hood never touches the slide. How could it beat it?

When I bought my TS, friends who had them told me that if I loaded to 1.126" OAL I'd never have any problems. They were right. Take to N320 load you got for 1.180" and drop it my 0.5gr to start. VV has N320 data for a 180 lead bullet at 1.126". 3.5gr starting load, 4.1 max. You should make major at about 3.8-3.9gr with the Everglades.

First of all, MBX mags have never been buy and use immediately mags. The instructions that come with tell you to condition the springs by loading the mags fully and let them sit for a week or two. I use two. If you try to use them straight away, the follower stick up too high and causes problems, and possibly damage. Same thing goes for any new mag spring. Another thing to watch out for is Gen 1 and 2 followers. While you can use Gen 1 followers in any MBX mag, Gen 2 will not work in Gen 1 mags. I bend my Gen 2 follower a little bit so they sit a little more horizontally in the mag. Nose dives are caused by too strong a spring, too tight front feed lips and/or too short ammo. I use an Uplula with no problems. One thing I always do it with the rear of a loaded mag against the heel of my hand until I hear a dull thud. That means all the rounds are touching the rear of the mag. Lastly, never drop an almost full MBX mag on the ground. If you do you risk a round slipping under the follower, or cocking in the mag. I use partially loaded STI Gen 2 mags for Classifiers or when I have to drop a mag in mud or dirt. I'll also use on if my stage plan requires shooting 6 shots and reloading on the run. Otherwise I use my 155s and 170s. BTW, the same advice goes for SVI Gen 1 tubes and TTI everything else.

I use Hornady dies with a MBF funnel and feeder, plus a Lee Factory Carbide crimp die for 40sw. Set the MBF funnel to full depth. A bell is not necessary. If you insist on one make it miniscule. The MBF drops a bullet in straight up and down. It doesn't move or wiggle when moving to the next station. I seat the bullet without crimping, then crimp only with the Lee FCCD. It resizes the case going up and down. Almost 100% drop into and out of the Shockbottle chamber checkers. The ones that don't have an extractor cut on the rim. After I file that off the drop in just fine. The Lee die is for .400" diameter bullets. If you use .401" it will size the portion of the bullet in the case to .400". It doesn't seem to hurt accuracy at all.