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No.

I used a vertical belt sander to soften and thin the edges. It doesn't dig in now. I've run a bunch of matches with mine and the screws never loosened. I do not use Loctite on them.

Just an observation based on how much guns move when shot. I don't what loads people were shooting, so that may account for some of it. I only shot a JP once with 124gr factory. It had noticeable recoil. They get rave reviews, shoot flat and soft, and are light weight. Everyone praises their build quality. No one has anything bad to say about them. Plus they shoot Atlanta Arms 109PF Steel Challenge ammo without modification or tinkering with springs. I'd love to handle and shoot one in person, but I don't know anyone who has one near me.

That makes more sense. Six 1/8" is the equivalent of 2.8 3/16" poppels. I'd be leery about adding more poppels. You are already at 10.7 for 170PF. If you add more holes you'll need more powder to make 170 again. Since MP is very compressible, you could do it, but the case will be so full you'll spill a lot of powder when the shell plate turns. I get a little at 10.2gr. At 11gr I would get a lot.

W, I shoot CZ TS, 1911 and 2011. I like them all with a caveat. When switching between the TS and a 1911/2011 I have to dry fire first, because of the different grip angle and ergonomics. If I don't I have to look for the sights. You want a gun. You're willing to spend $2k, but you have no idea what you want. The first thing you have to do is be honest with yourself and decide what you really want a new gun for. If you want to shoot bullseye, SS, L10 or IDPA CDP, then get a 1911 in 45. You have lots of first rate options to choose from in your price range. If you pick 45 you pretty much have to reload. 9mm 1911s are problematic. The guns are great, but mags can be difficult. I went through four name brands before I found some that worked. Your choices of first rate guns is also limited. Unless you simply wnat to shoot store bought ammo, I honestly don't see the point of a 9mm 1911. That being said, I did build a custom 1911 9mm Open gun for steel challenge. 2011s: you are not going to find a first rate 2011 in your price range. STI is the last place I would look. Anything new in that price range will require tweaking to get it to run. BTW, you can have a good 2011 built for $2k or slightly more. For 2011 I'd choose 40 S&W. You can shoot Limited major, or minor, and minor for steel challenge.

I dislike nose heavy guns. I went with steel for the weight. Now the gun balances right over my left index finger. It is softer and faster in every way.

I've been on the fence about PCC for quite a while. I have retina issues, so I want a soft shooting gun. I also want one that shoots flat and quick and is 100% reliable. I will probably only use it for SCSA, only because I love Open pistols for USPSA. I have been paying particular attention to PCC shooters for the past month or so when I am not ROing. The guys running the best in USPSA have tuned their guns and loads so the muzzle does not lift. Recoil is straight back. The difference in splits is astonishing compared to someone who has to wait for the sights to settle for the second shot. I used to think that would not matter for SCSA because the dot should settle while you are making the transition, but the flat shooting guns are faster there as well. Because I see so much junk out there (jamomatics, mags don't seat well, etc.) I've come to the conclusion I should buy one already assembled. It won't be a JP for no other reason than they recoil more than others. I think I'll be going with a Lead Star Prime.

I used some of the Everglades 124 major ammo when I first started loading 9mm major. It runs fine at 173PF, but it did not work the comp as well as my 115 load with a much slower powder. I'd use it again in a heartbeat if I was running low on my reloads, or couldn't keep up.

The left hand version is quite new. SC evidently doesn't have them yet. If you are a lefty, order it from Everglades, or ask SC to get you one.

I doubt there will be any pressure signs at 10.75. I run 10.2 under a 115 HAP for 168PF with no signs at all. I've gone as high as 10.5 and still no pressure signs. I only have two 3/16" poppels. I'm surprised that Max only needed .4gr more powder with six 3/16" poppels. BTW, the 115s run softer and flatter than 124s in my pistol.

Yes. They are hand specific. You specify which hand when ordering.

Both of those chronos are idiosyncratic. The Caldwell is very sensitive to muzzle blast. The CED likes the bullets to pass close above the ports. I've used both, and now use neither. I prefer the ProDigital Chrono. It is more accurate, very forgiving and easy to set up and use. Unless the bullet path is perfectly aligned with the long axis of the chrono, and parallel to the plane of the ports, you will get erroneous readings. They will be slower than actual. The CED will read slower than the Caldwell simply because it measures over a 2' span rather than I. That compounds the effect of an off axis bullet. CED M2s are what is used in chrono stations at USPSA matches. So use the number yours provides when determining PF.

I buy fully processed brass from Ammobrass. I 8,000 so far I've found only one stepped case. They do sort but they missed that one. Every one of them worked perfectly. I don't sort at all.

I shoot RFPO and Open. I bring six cased mags to the table for each. The Open gun is a 1911 Custom Open gun. On those occasions where I have a USPSA match the day after an SCSA match, I shoot Open with my 2011 shooting minor rounds. I have six mags for it, but not all of them are the same. So I run two identical mags loaded to 24. I find I am generally better on the second, third and fifth strings, because there was no break in the cadence. Usually the scorer has trouble keeping up. When I start shooting PCC, I'll probably do the same. Two 33 rounders loaded with 24.

This varies from club to club. No one bends any rules, but some clubs add them. For example, all three clubs I shoot SCSA at require you to bring your gun (of any kind) to the table in a zipped case. You cannot unzip the case until Make Ready. For USPSA, it is slightly more varied. One club uses orange cones placed to the side of the berm up-range from the COF. When you are on deck you may remove your gun from a 3-gun cart or uncase it while the PCC muzzle is pointed at the cone. You still have to observe the 180 rule. Then carry it vertically to the shooting box. Reverse when done shooting. They also mandate all PCC shooters are in the same squad. A second club allows you to bring your carted, naked, chamber flagged gun or case up to the box and uncart or uncase it while pointed down range. Both clubs are very good at explaining the correct procedures at the Match Briefing. Both clubs require 'reasonably vertically UPWARDS'. I've never understood why downwards was permitted, because of the possibility of sweeping your foot.

I'd stay away from Federal Syntech. A buddy uses them and he gets an average of one squib every other match. Also, it is not a good idea to shoot poly coated or jacketed bullets in an Open gun. They lead up the comp. You should only use heavy copper platted or JHPs.

If your FP is Ti, put a new, heavier mainspring in or change to an SS one. Clean the FP channel and do not lube. Some slides require longer firing pins. Dawson is the longest. Cheely and some others are next. I generally use an EGW SS FP. I have one gun that absolutely will not work with a standard length pin. If Series 80, remove all the parts and clean out the channels and holes. It is surprising how much gunk can collect. Polish all the parts before you put them back in.

Bullseye shooters want the LSW to be just touching the lands for the best accuracy. With jacketed bullets, that is a no no. It will spike pressures. If your 2011 will reliably feed 1.135", load that for everything. My CZ TS liked 1.126" best and both 2011 would feed that length. So that is what I loaded. You also need less powder for major. Powder needs a certain pressure to burn completely. If it doesn't get that pressure, large SDs are the result. As you inch up the pressure curve your SDs get better. Also be aware that SDs go up and down as you move up the ladder. For example, at 3.4gr of my powder under a LSWC returns an SD 04.97. Bump to 3.6 and the SD drops to 11.85. Bump to 3.7 and SDs are 9.42. I'll assume you are shooting Limited. None of this matters for accuracy in run gun. The difference are too small, and the A zone is big.

The holster is not adjustable for trigger guard fit. Rounded trigger guards will not work. Square ones do. My 1911 JEM Guns frame has a square trigger guard and it work fine. I'm pretty sure the Caspian HiCap would as well. However, it's worth a phone call to ask.

As far as I'm concerned, the Everglades required the optional thigh rest. I increase the radii on my thigh pad so it doesn't dig in anymore.

No. The 165, 155 and 135gr PFs were with a 3.3gr charge of e3. 3.7gr under a 180 made 172PF. 3.7 under a 155 made 140PF. I tried a 165 over 3.7gr but didn't like the recoil. I didn't chrono, but estimate 155PF.

165s just adds more recoil and slower slide action. Here are the results from testing light bullet weights with the same powder charge. 165 - 140 PF. 155 - 131 PF. 135 - 109 PF. Had I substituted a 165 for the 180 in my major load, I'd have been around 155 PF. There is no point in shooting a 155 PF minor load. I stayed with a 155 at 140-144 PF (depending on powder) because it shot to the same POI as my major load, and I didn't have to change recoil springs. When I stopped shooting Limited I lowered the powder charge (and recoil spring) and shot the 155gr load above. At 131 PF it is a great load.

You would, and even the new DAA Evo block has problems. Same with the SVI steel block for Cheely e2. I was fine with the DAAs when I had one set up for my CZ TS Limited gun and another for Open. That was fine when all my Open guns had STI poly grips. Then I started changing. Now no two Open guns have the same grip, and the Everglades works with all of them.

Not me. I don't give a hoot. Winning my Class does nothing for me. What gives me a thrill is being the highest placed pistol shooter in the overall match standings (or second or third). Yes, I'm behind some PCCO and RFRO shooters, but I'm ahead of others. As far as I'm concerned, I'm shooting against everyone, not just my Class or Division.

If you are happy with your DAA, keep it. You are not going to pick up much time. To give an example, I dry fire with an AMG timer that is sensitive enough to pick up the hammer fall. For a surrender draw to a variable par time beep, I'm .05 to .1 seconds faster with the Everglades. That's not enough to notice if you weren't timing yourself. I can't tell whether it is the holster or the additional practice. The main reason I went to an Everglades was it worked with all my Open guns, including a custom 1911 Open for SCSA. With both DAAs every time I wanted to shoot a different gun I'd have to change out blocks. It got to be a PITA.