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The most accurate 115 JHP I've shot so far is the Hornady HAP. I've shot a lot of Everglades bullets, but will not be using more after the 2000 I have left are gone. For some reason I cannot get my Mr. Bulletfeeder adjusted so they all feed base down. PD bullets are much better in this regard, but I still get an occasional nose down feed. The HAPs feed 100% base down and OAL is much more consistent than the other two. I plan to try Montana Gold next unless I get another good deal on the HAPs.

Whatever you get her, make sure it has enough of an adjustment range. The 30 MOA rail is a handicap, because you'll have to dial it down at least that far to zero it for 18 yards. The RTS2 does have enough range, but there are battery issues. All three of mine had 6 MOA dots. I had to crank them up to max brightness to see the dot on white steel in sunlight. One of them would not last an entire 8 stage match without dimming noticeably. C-More and a lot of other shooters tell me that going to an 8, 10 or 12 MOA dot saves the battery and is easier to pick up on steel. One custom builder has C-More bore them out to a 15 MOA dot. Aside from battery life and brightness issues, the RTS2 is a nice sight.

I currently reload 9mm, 40sw and 45ACP. 40 and 45 major and because I want to tailor the loads. Three loads for 45- bullseye, major and competition. Major and minor in 40. The only reason I reload major and minor in 9mm is I have to shoot JHPs to keep the comp clean. I have a PCC on the way, so I'll be buying minor ammo for that. At 17 cents shipped it doesn't make sense to reload. It costs me 21 cents to reload major, mostly because of the large amounts of slow powder and the expense of good JHPs. It costs about 1/2 cent less to load JHPs for minor.

Yes.

MBX mags require a break in period with new springs. I leave mine fully loaded for two weeks to let the springs take a set. After that, no problems. With your 170s, you may only be able to get 28 in at first. That's fine. A week later you can get the 29th in. Eventually you can get a 30th in, but it won't be reloadable.

I shoot with a GM who runs a Keltec. No jams. No misfeeds. It just runs.

I fine tune my dot zero from a rest, then adjust my grip and trigger pull to hit the same POI. Doing it this way shows you what you are/were doing wrong.

Use it for minor steel challenge loads.

100% reliability and a quick return of the sights. Too light and the slide loiters at the rear of the stroke. Too heavy and you risk stove pipe jams. As a general rule, if the brass gets tossed 3' away, your in good shape.

Sport Pistol is like N320, which about a bazillion people use for 9mm and 40. It burn clean and cool, costs way less and isn't so fast you risk a caboom with light bullets. American Select, Solo 1000 and e3 work well also. e3 will require lower charge weights than the other three. I have very little AS left. I'm hording my remaining Solo 1000 for 45ACP major. Until recently, I used e3 for all things minor, including my 45 bullseye load. I started using the SP for 9mm minor in my compensated 1911 steel challenge gun. It make just enough gas to work the poppels (but not the comp) and it shoots soft and flat. I like it, especially with the coated bullets I'm required to use at one range.

I have 10 and 11, but don't need them. The 12 works fine in my CZ TS.

Good move. You'll have smoother chamber walls that way.

Two 3/16" poppels dropped my major load from 172PF to 168. The poppels make the gun run flatter, but rob the comp of gas. I went with a much slower powder than WAC and ended up getting flatter AND softer.

I count and reload before empty. Going to slide lock is slower. Even slower is having no slide lock, hearing the click, reloading and racking. When in doubt, reload early. Four mags will get you through any monster stage I've ever seen. So far the longest stage has been 64 falling steel targets.

Are you sure you didn't get Heavy Pistol instead of Major Pistol? That is the only thing I can think of. My major load is fully processed mixed headstamp brass, CCI 500, 10.2gr MP, 115 HAP at 1.161". This makes 168PF, SD 4.9 out of a 5" barrel with two 3/16" poppels and a 3-chamber comp. I also got my powder from Graf's & Sons.

If you want more gas, switch to Major Pistol powder. It is denser and slower than 3N38, and the higher charge weight makes more gas. 10.2 gr under a 115 isn't even compressed if seated to 1.161".

12 lb. I used a 13 lb. spring when I was shooting major and minor out of the gun. PFs were 172 and 144.

There is absolutely no difference between chambering for a straight walled (or tapered) pistol cartridge and reaming a set of holes with a two diameter reamer (or three for that matter). In fact, that is exactly what a pistol cartridge is, a two diameter (or three) reamer. If you want the best finish, rough and then finish ream. a doesn't want to deepen a short chamber. He wants to enlarge a large portion of a 9mm chamber to 40. I think your definition of a good finish differs from mine.

Nonsense. Only use 3N38 for 9 major if you enjoy cleaning up spilled powder on the shell plate, struggling with compressing the powder and watching your rounds grow in OAL after a bit.

The sweet spot for 40sw and Steel Challenge is around 130PF. My SC load is mixed HS brass, CCI500, 3.2ge Alliant e3, 155gr Precision RNFP coated bullet. Awesomely accurate, consistent and clean. You can use your major load, but you will be slower on several stages because of the extra recoil and muzzle rise. Following the conventional wisdom of just using a lighter bullet with the same charge as your major load only works with some powders. Slower powders tend to be smokey and inconsistent with light bullets and low velocity. You need to keep chamber pressure up to get a complete burn.

I'm basing that on years of tool & die making experience.

I looked at the Magnum Research Switchbolt but decide to go with the Tactical Innovations Left charging Receiver and bolt instead.

My take is if you get your brass at the range, or worse yet buy LEO brass, go for the 1050. You will still need another press, because it is expensive and time consuming to change calibers on the 1050. I currently load everything on a Hornady LnL with case feeder and Mr. Bulletfeeder bullet feeder. Everything works great as long as I buy fully processed bras. The machine does not handle crimped LEO brass well at all. I reload so many 9mm major a year it is crowding out the other calibers. I considering buying a 1050 just for 9mm and using the LnL for 40 and 45. That alone will save me $500/yr, because I can get all the 9mm brass I want for free, as long as I'm willing to process it.

I have no Ghost experience, but I do with an Everglades holster. The problem was the fatness at the front of the trigger guard hit the top of the block and would not let the gun in enough to get it to lock. Removing a little material from the block cured that. See pic.

If a club is USPSA/SCSA sanctioned, they will shoot mainly SCSA classifiers. Some mix and match. One club I shoot at only has six bays available, and only four can support an SCSA classifier. So the run four standard and two outlaw. My home club is not affiliated with any sanctioning body, so all our matches are outlaw. Even if I put in a real SCSA stage, it was still outlaw.