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tacomandood

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About tacomandood

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    Finally read the FAQs

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  • Location
    Reno, NV
  • Real Name
    Daniel Garibay

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  1. Kinda reviving an old thread here, but how did the Hero 7 work for you? I'm considering getting one for the higher framerate recording (slow-motion review) and the built-in image stabilization. Figured one of those Smatree caps would work well for getting video that way. And for everyone saying it's not worth it getting first person view... I'd argue that it's still pretty useful to see how fast/smooth transitions are, how quickly you're moving eyes to a new target on those transitions, presentation to targets on entry/exit, how and why you might have had mikes or pulled shots, recoil management, etc. that you just can't get from somebody following you in third person (assuming they don't record a s#!tty video). Though a $300-$400 GoPro might not be the solution for everyone, you can still get some good information from a first person view with another camera.
  2. Found on DAAs website here. Was just about to buy it but had to buy a couple cases of bullets after Gallant finally got some .40 in stock. Heads up too, shipping from PA to me (NV) is like $30 for UPS Ground, so be ready for that if you decide to buy. Either way, I'm picking one up for sure when I get paid on the 15th. Did the tarp scooping thing one last time this week and I'm pretty well sick of it lol. Will update here with a sort of update/review after taking it out a couple times.
  3. About how big would you say it is packed up on the case? Like length and such? I've already always got targets and stands in the back of my Jeep for when I got shooting, don't know how much room I'll have for it to stay back there if it's too big lol. Still though, I definitely plan on buying the CED one at this point. You pointing out that your buddy immediately bought one after trying it vs. his self-made one was just the push I needed.
  4. Man, wish I would’ve seen this sooner. Unfortunately, I’ve had some unexpected emergency expenses and couldn’t pick it up anyway. As far as looking for a suitable substitute, it’s been almost constantly snowing this last ~month now, and I’ve barely been able to even go out and shoot. Go figure it’s gotta snow Wednesday-Friday when I can only take time to shoot Friday-Sunday lol. This is after buying a new gun and targets, and I’m stuck at home dryfiring because of the weather lol. I’m thinking they might be dropping the brass catcher to that $135 for a little while, and may just end up buying one once this weather clears up a little better. The few times I did go out after my original post, I just threw down a tarp and did it the old-fashioned way. Still, I know for a fact it’d save time buying the CED brass chute since setup is so quick and it automatically dumps it into a collection container for you. Since most of my live fire practice the last few months has been doubles/standards drills, I stand in the same spot 90% of the time or at least end in the same spot on entry/exit drills.
  5. .10 x 1000 = $100 If you’re worried about saving money on plinking ammo, $100 becomes a far more material cost. Even if you only shoot 200 rounds per outing, you’re saving $20 each time. It really adds up long-term when you get into thousands of rounds loaded. Agree with you on the 650 vs. 1050 though. The 1050 is great for volume, and is why I chose to go with it when I’ve got limited time available. I’m lucky to get out once a week to go shoot, and finding a few hours a week for reloading and brass processing is also what pushed me more toward the 1050. Otherwise, a 650 will get you nearly the same results (so long as you don’t have crimped brass) at only maybe 10-20% slower rate.
  6. Update: After everyone's suggestions, I picked one up about a month ago now and this thing is awesome! I can get so many more reps in for dryfire now with only having to reach across my wrist to start the timer. Setting par times is super easy once you figure it out, and the volume control and sensitivity adjustments have worked great for me both indoors and out. I've used it for dryfire roughly 4 days a week and live fire about 4 times now and the battery is still reading at 50%. Obviously, that's plus or minus 25%, but still damn good considering I haven't had to charge it once since buying yet. Dryfire sessions are usually about 40-50 minutes, and live fire between an hour to an hour and a half, for reference of use. I also love the 3 and 5-minute timers while dryfiring. They keep me from sticking to one drill too long, and also help me keep a good pace when dryfiring as I have a better idea of how long I've actually been practicing and how many drills I'm going through. Me and @Nevadazielmeister were showing ours off at a club match at the beginning of this month. I haven't had a chance to try it in "Spy Mode" yet, but he was saying that it was showing splits and times pretty accurately. Only gripes I have is that it can sometimes record bumps as shots when I'm either reloading or even drawing, though it's easy to spot those weird shot times and pick out the real ones. As far as using it to time someone else, I've had to crank up the sensitivity significantly if I'm not following close behind them. Regardless, I bought the thing primarily for myself, so the other guys I've shot with can go buy their own shot timers lol. The last kinda "eh" thing, is that, say I set a par time of 1.3s, and I take a shot at almost exactly 1.3, it won't record the shot. I think it has something to do with momentarily turning off the mic so it doesn't confuse the beep with a shot (since they're so close), but I still am able to tell whether or not I'm hitting the par time. I've seen shots recorded as close as .03s from the set par time, though, so I'm guessing it's only unable to record shots right at that window. This has only happened maybe 3 or 4 times in live fire so far, so I'm not too concerned about it. If anyone else is debating, you should definitely buy it if you want to get the most out of your dryfire in the shortest amount of time. $150 may seem steep, but most other timers are pretty close to price and don't have quite as many features in such a small and portable package. Having something right on your wrist during live fire is nice too, especially when working on moving drills or high-rep/low round count drills (doubles, bill drill, etc.) where you're constantly starting the timer. Also, I recommend buying the hard carry case. It'll keep buttons from accidentally getting pushed while in your bag and needlessly draining the battery, plus it fits much better and it's easier to find when sitting inside your range bag.
  7. Uh, what? You can easily load .223/5.56 for $.10/rd less than you can buy even in bulk. Cheapest I've seen is about $.26/round shipped if you can combine some sort of promos and rebates, but I'm more commonly seeing it at $.27-$.29 on sale. Unless you're buying that steel-cased stuff? If you reload, depending on your powder and projectiles, you can easily load it for about $.16-$.18/round, especially if you're just going for stockpile/plinking ammo. That's what most people buying the $.26-$.30/round cases are doing anyway. If you wanna load with like Hornady hunting/SP bullets then you're looking at maybe $.25/round, but still way better than the factory stuff that's around $.50-$.60/round. Hell, I've seen some of that Hornady Black .223 stuff going for as much as like $1/round! Maybe I'm missing something here, but reloading is a bit cheaper than buying the stuff, at least in my neck of the woods. ANYWAY, getting back on topic to OP's question.. A 650 is probably best if you plan on doing that many calibers, unless you have the money to blow on a 1050 and all the conversions. Don't get me wrong, I love my 1050 and am glad it's the first press I ever bought, but I only have conversions for 9mm and .40 and I'm already into the press like $2400. If you can get a military discount, Bobcat has great prices and helps with the overall costs, but I'm still looking at around $190 per other conversion I want to do. Plus, switching to large primer calibers alone is gonna be like another $120. The quick-change toolheads for the 1050 are like $275 each too! I haven't even purchased one yet, so it still takes me about 30-45 minutes to completely switch calibers. Still though, I'm able to crank out around 800-900 rounds in an hour without breaking a sweat, which is near pushing the limit of a 650. My buddy that owns a 650 came over and tried my 1050, and instantly wished he had bought one for all the .223 he loads, especially since it includes the primer pocket swage in station 3. Hell, the swage has even helped me out tremendously in knocking out all the crimped 9mm I've shot and reloaded in the past. To really pass that 1k rounds/hour though, you're gonna need a bullet feeder, which is what I plan on buying next now that I finally got an RF 100 to keep up with me. Plus, you can always look to automate a 1050 in the future. One bit of advice, if you decide to go the 1050 route, is that Dillon just announced a newer, "improved" model called the RL1100 (I think?) at SHOT Show this week that's supposed to have a couple better upgrades and features. Expected release around April. They haven't given out too many specifics yet, but the price was also announced to be at about $2000. Basically, you can either go for the new press, or keep an eye out for a lot of used 1050s going up for sale in the next few months. With a 650, the nice thing is that people are always selling conversions, quick-change toolheads, and extras like dies and upgrades for cheap. You could probably find someone selling a 650 with several conversions pretty cheap on any of the Facebook or MeWe Dillon groups. Really, price is the only benefit though. If you're only shooting 10-15k per year, a 650 will be plenty machine for you. However, you may end up loading and shooting more with a faster press too. I've easily gone through about 9k rounds in just the last 4 months with my 1050, and probably about 14k cycles including the brass I've processed on there. Only reason I haven't loaded more is because I keep running out of bullets and my college kid budget can only afford about a case per month lol. Dillon has a neato little "Which press is right for me?" guide on their website that could really help you out on deciding as well. I was on the line between a 650 and 1050, and decided I would need the 1050 for continuing to shoot competition and eventually for automation. Of course, you could always start with a 650, and buy a 1050 if you really need the extra capacity in the future, which is what I know a lot of people do. I've considered it myself, and will probably end up doing that in the future when I've got a more disposable income. Again, money and the amount you need to load are going to be your major determining factors here.
  8. Yeah that’s a dumb reason to give a reshoot. If a guy slipped and fell should they get a reshoot? If my shoe fell off in the stage do I get a reshoot? This all comes down to subjective opinion that could vary from person to person. RO should’ve kept the clock running. I get trying to be friendly or understanding, but as everyone else has said, rules are rules. The issue comes from ensuring competitive equity. What happens when he reshoots and gets 100% on the stage? Even in just division or class, that raises the question for every else competing. Can you imagine the shitstorm USPSA would have to deal with if someone was allowed a reshoot for that reason at a Level 2 or higher match? Lol
  9. Aaaaaand out come the personal attacks.. [emoji849] Still though, a fair point. Even $25/month is not a lot when you think about it like that. Hell, I spend easily over $150/month eating out when the wife and I don’t feel like making dinner lol. If I made dinner even one night more often a month it’s paid for. Easy.
  10. If you’re looking for something to hold paper targets you’re most likely better off just buying some stands from Midway. Unless you already have materials sitting around, the cost of using either wood or PVC/ABS ends up being about the same as just buying some, and you don’t have to spend the time making them. As far as steel target stands, there’s a guy on Etsy who has awesome prices and pretty good quality from what I’ve used so far. Let me know if you want more info.
  11. Just the type of modifications on the gun and placement of pouches and holster on the belt. For example, you can have a magwell or thumbrest in Limited, but almost no external modification in Production. Also, all mag pouches and gun must be behind the front of the hip bone in Production and no further than about 2.1” from the inside of the belt, with no limitations in Limited except that the pouches or gun can be no further than about 3.3” from the belt.
  12. Hehe a shooter from good ol’ Ferntucky Nevada! I’m from Reno myself lol. Luckily, there’s a couple matches a month you can check out. There’s gonna be a USPSA Club Match in Fallon on Saturday the 19th. Think it’s $20 to come out and shoot. Look up “Stillwater Firearms Association” or “SFA” on PractiScore to find the registration page. Also, up by Pyramid, there’s WNPL. USPSA Matches are usually the first Sunday of the month, but if you’re trying to get in on some multigun they do their UML matches on the second Saturday of the month. “wnpl.org” is the website for there. They’ve just started doing NRL22 matches at WNPL as well, on the third Sunday of the month (I think, not 100% sure). Come out whenever you get a chance. Everyone is pretty friendly and we’ll help a new shooter as best we can. Hope to see you out there soon!
  13. Probably so they wear out over time and you have to buy new ones to replace them lol. I haven’t had issues with about 6000 loaded in mine, but I also have like 12 different tubes so thats not many through each.
  14. I’m gonna have to strongly disagree with you on that one. The whole thing just runs so much smoother when you have lubed cases. I tried to run my 9mm without lube for a few hundred rounds and the issue I had is that I couldn’t tell when something else was wrong with the press when I’m exerting all this force to resize a case. It’s easier to catch a jam, bad case, or bad primer seat when the whole press is running smoothly. Maybe it’s different with a 650, but on my 1050 I’m cranking out 800-900 rounds per hour, and any extra energy wasted on sizing adds up quick. Residual case lube on pistol brass isn’t supposed to be a big deal anyway, but I do the same of running my loaded rounds in some corncob for about 10-15 minutes after. Gives everything a nice polish and definitely helps keep my hundo cleaner.
  15. This is exactly what I meant. And this is what I meant also lol. So yeah, I'm not discounting the fact that there are a lot of great Production shooters out there, but I was more interested in Limited because there were more shooters in total, ergo more "competitive"; a larger talent pool and more people to compare myself to. Where I'm at, everyone in Production is either B-class and below, or the one random GM that shows up every once in a while. Though I haven't shot any major matches yet nor received a classification in Limited, I'm hoping I can get a better idea of my skill level this shooting season since there will be more than 6 other shooters in my division showing up to matches I go to and almost always beat out lol. Thinking of shooting a level 2 match, if my schedule permits, so I guess we'll see how I feel after that.
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