Jakobi

Pull it. Throw brass in scrap bucket. Carry on.

You probably won't notice a difference if using jacketed or plated bullets (I do this with a 38 S&W and .357 bullets). Shoot undersized lead and long term you might see excessive leading due to a poor seal.

I use a LEE universal decapping die in a LEE hand press. I've never broken or bent a pin but I have pulled pins out because of tight flash holes. Push the pin back in and kept trucking.

Go read this for a good explanation of ladder loading and the mechanics of what it is accomplishing. I shoot at 300 yards/meters when I'm ladder testing.

I use a Bear Creek 200gr RNHB over 5gr of Titegroup. I never been able to get SWC to feed reliabily in my 1911. For the most part I prefer the midweight bullets in my handguns.

I will never understand not looking at my holster while putting a gun in it. As an RO I see people do this all the time and it never makes any sense to me.

The point at which two curves or arcs meet is called an intersection.

Nice!

I use Federal American Eagle. Works great and can be found for $.30-.35/round pretty easily.

Egg sinkers are the best/cheapest things I've found for slugging barrels. Buy ones close to the size you need or smash them to fit. Drive them through from the chamber end using wood dowells slightly smaller than your bore and your hammer of choice.

I've never trimmed pistol brass. No reason to.

I have a cheap set of needle files that work well. Go slow and use a marking medium (I use a sharpie) to help keep track of where you're removing and need to remove material.

I'm using 5gr of Titegroup under a Bear Creek 200gr HBRN. Prior to that I was using 5.1gr of Bullseye (same bullet) and 5.9gr Titegroup under a Berry's 185gr HBRN.

I use the Hornady cam lock. It works but I have issues with it and .45 ball type rounds, too. As you noted, if the bullet is seated too deep it's difficult to remove with a collet type puller.

Is is possible to get a .40 minor gun with 10 round magazines to fit in the box?

I use a lanolin/alcohol mix and remove with Simple Green and tumble in walnut to make sure cases are dry. No issues to date.

Nice. Thanks for posting this.

Mostly sights but I did have a barrel link break once.

Stuff both at once. Left hand to position 2, right to position 1.

All of my presses are mounted to 3/4" plywood using carriage bolts and washers and clamped to my work bench. There's a bit of flex in the board but only when I'm forming brass.

I use a plated 165gr in my 40 S&W load but I have some 180gr coated bullets I want to try. When I shot factory 165gr and 180gr side-by-side, I preferred the 165gr.

Don't let a chrono keep you from shooting a match with your reloads. Just don't take your reloads to a major match without chronographing them first.

Power Factor = (bullet weight in grains X velocity in fps)/1000 At a match with a chrony they will shoot three rounds to get an average velocity and will pull one bullet to get a weight. There's more detail in the rule book, which I recommend you download and read. I load so that my minimum PF is 5 over the minimum for Major or Minor given a bullet weight that is a full grain under what is listed.

Assuming a USPSA type ruleset, you could try to call a malfunction and argue that it was a shot through the barrel (hard cover) but only if the target is completely obsecured. If it's partly exposed then how do you prove that it was the shot through the barrel that cause the popper to fall? I've also never seen bird shot go through two sides of a barrel. This sounds like a case where the RO got pissy about people gaming a stage.

Generally this means that you're anticipating recoil and pushing with the heel of your strong hand when you break the shot. Dry practice is the only cure I know of.