Jakobi

A scrap yard might give you a mixed price. Your best be would be to find a caster to sell to. Save up a 2-5 gallon buckets worth and I'm sure someone would be interested.

Toss 'em in my range bag.

I shoot both. I run a Gen 3 Grip Force adapter on a Gen 4 G35. Between the adapter and my own grip modifications, the two guns feel and point very similarly for me. The biggest thing for me is the difference in the triggers.

Midway has the puller for $22.99 and collets for $10.99.

The only real success I've had pulling cast bullets is with the kinetic type. I hate pulling cast bullets.

The Hornady is fast once you get it set up. It's a tiny bit more expensive than the RCBS but the collets are cheaper.

I use the Hornady Cam-Lock bullet puller. Works great. Using a wrench to tighten a collet or clamp every time you pull a bullet seems like a lot of unnesessary work to me.

Ask for the discount and if they say no, stop ROing. If the ROs that are there and getting the discount are slacking then call them on it. All you're doing now is enabling their slacking.

What are you looking for when you look at the other target? Trying to confirm the competitors caliber?

I would buy a clamp on railed gas block and put it as far out on the end of the barrel as possible. At that point you can mount whatever front sight you want. The reason I wouldn't mount something to the rail is that the rail or barrel can flex and cause your POI to vary. Mounting the front sight to the barrel can help mitigate this.

Sporting clays is fun. My first time out, when my only shotgunning experience was trap and screwing around, I hit just over 30. It's probably some of the best practice you can get.

Buy a 550 or 65O. You won't regret it.

Seems like we just talked about this... http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=200759&page=1 It all boils down to how much you value your time.

I used a Cylinder and Slide kit on my 1911. I had to do some sear/hammer fitting but otherwise it was a great kit. The safety also required fitting to the new sear but I would expect that with any kit.

USPSA 3-gun popper calibration procedures are the same as the handgun only rules (i.e. poppers are calibrated with sub minor 9mm regardless of which type of gun they are to be shot with). Makes sense to me as it's easier to define the variables. That said, I like to play with distances and target sizes to make it more challenging. Rewards the shooters that know how to use their shotgun rather than turning it into a hose fest. I determine choke size by knowing the range to my targets, the shot pattern for a given choke/load, and proximity to other targets and no-shoots. Then I go with the most open choke possible. Sometimes targets barely fall over but the extra forgiveness the pattern size gives you is generally worth it. Some of this boils down to experience and some boils down to reading articles like P.E.'s.

I have an 18" barrel with the Noveske 16.7" handguard and a mid length gas system. I built a hex driver using a long shank screw driver and a hex key from sets I bought at Harbor Freight. Wound up being cheaper than anything I could buy on Amazon or from SLR and I got a few extra tools for other stuff out of the deal.

P.E., how were the poppers calibrated for your article?

SK & IC mostly. I'll choke up to M for long or tight shots. Thinking about a Diffusion but the jury is still out. I also have F & XF but I've never used them in 3-gun. Shooting a 28" Nova Pump that started out as my field/trap gun.

I use the Lyman Cast Bullet handbook and Lyman reloading manual mostly. I've also found lead data in my Honady manuals. Some bullet manufacturers (e.g. Oregon Laser Cast) have their own manuals available.

SLR Sentry 7.

Buy a LEE crimp die and seat and crimp in separate steps. I've seen too many screwed up rounds from seating and crimping in the same step that I've never bothered with the practice.

Have you measured the expander?

Used and going unconventional are probably your best bets. A used mini-14 can be had for less than an AR and will work fine for a beginner. Any striker fired pistol will work (Glock, XDm, M&P Pro). These can easily be used for USPSA (one gun, two or more disciplines). Throw in a pump shotgun (Benelli or 870 are probably your best bet) and you're set. Look for deals and you can get all these for $1000-1200. Budget $200-300 for other miscellaneous gear and you're done. Replace gear/guns as funds allow and/or you outgrow it. Or just find someone that has extra stuff you can borrow.

I run Chip Shooting Stars and I'm in the process of switching to Power Mags. Best bang for the buck that I could find.

I use a Nova pump. Others use the Super Nova. If you like your 870 then go with that. Nordic springs are cheap. Buy one to experiment with and see how long it really needs to be to get reliable feeding of the last round.