Jakobi

I don't feel like tearing my gun apart every time I want to check rounds so I check with a gauge and the barrel so I can establish a baseline between the two. Once the baseline is established (meaning, I know what the differences in fit between the gauge and barrel are) I only use the gauge. Once I've gauged enough rounds to know that my process is producing ammo in spec (even with bulged brass) I don't continue to check rounds except randomly. I'm finding that even rounds that take a bit of force to seat in the chamber run just fine when I load and shoot them. The key is to know know what your gun will run and what will actually stop it. Regarding bullets keeping the round from seating in the gauge, I've only run into this with .40 long so I had my gunsmith ream the gauge block out. I'm using the EGW four hole checker. Before I bought it for .40 long (only recently started loading that) I'd never checked a round with a gauge or barrel test in my life and I can only think of one instance where I had a stoppage due to a bad round. I had reloded a piece of split brass so now I just pay more attention to my brass when I'm putting it in the press.

Safariland

Walnut media with capful of NuFinish polish for an average sized tumbler. I don't but you can cut the polish with mineral spirits (makes the polish distribute easier in the media). Add more polish when your brass stops coming out as shiny.

I bought a Norinco 1911 because it was cheap and started shooting SS. Upgraded parts as needed over the years and have pretty much replaced everything at this point. Still shoot it 'cause I like the challenge.Swutched to L10 for local matches so I have more people to shoot with. Picked up a Gen 4 G35 for 3gun 'cause single stacks suck for 3gun and safe action pistols are nice for abandoning. Thinking about playing in Production and eyeballing a CZ Shadow 2. We'll see where this goes.

I've noticed the same variation with .45 range brass but accuracy with my reloads is acceptable so I didn't see a reason to explore it further. I'm not surprised at all really.

The best forward fallers I've seen have some kind of overtravel limiter so they don't rotate past vertical and need to be correctly adjusted.

I'm in Oregon, too, and I use New Balanace minimus trail running shoes in the summer and Merrell MOABs the rest of the year. I'll probably try a pair of Keens in the future but I'm really liking my Merrells right now. Both the Merrells and New Balance shoes have been working great for me in all conditions. The soles on the NB minimus aren't super thick or stiff so super rocky areas can wear you out if you're not used to them.

I have a DAA belt and a Black Scorpion belt. Both seem to have the same stiffness/quality. Purchased on the interwebs.

Baldetech holster and Safariland pouches here. Inner/outter belt of your choice.

Run it till is breaks and carry spares.

I stopped drinking beer and funneled my beer money into a gun fund. That's a lie. I have no intention of ever quitting beer. Also I don't own a 2011. Buy a Glock. Same thing. Or find stuff to sell to raise funds and then slowly buy the other stuff back. Assuming you really needed or were using that stuff.

That's the minimum I would want because I tend to use the dot as an aiming point. A short channel would cut off part of the bottom of the dot so if I compensated to where I could see the full dot I'd be aiming high. My opinion is that it just boils down to personal preference. Too short and you can't easily see the light between the sides and blade and at some point I'd imagine there's a diminshing return on height.

I run a Bladetech mounted directly to the TEK-LOK (it's for 3gun and I wanted it close to my body). Use a drop/offset hanger if you want more adjustability in the holster position.

I bought a Bladetech for my G35 (same as G34) and it will fit any smaller sized Glock. Part of the beauty of Glocks.

If it's what you have and want to try Limited then go for it. Long term, there are a couple guys in my section, good shooters, who shoot minor for pretty much everything and it doesn't handicap them in the slightest. I stick with the mantra of "if you can shoot major, do that," mostly because I drop too many points, but there are now divisions where shooting minor comes with a round count advantage (where there didn't used to be one) and that can be a big enough game changer to make the switch to minor.

Deep enough to clear the fiber dot on my front sight. Anything after that is extra. You should still be using to top of the sights as your aiming reference points so the depth of the channel really has no other purpose than to let you see more or less of the front sight.

I started having feeding issues (the slide would stall half way through a magazine) with my G35 with TTI extensions and eventually diagnosed it as bad mag springs. When removed from the magazine the free length was less than that of a stock mag spring. They didn't have a lot of use either and I leave mags unloaded. Replaced with ISMI extra power springs and no more problems. I'm not sure why the springs took a set so quickly.

Put inner belt on normally. Index outer belt on left hip using mag pouch or right hip using holster (holster indexed against Velcro on belt). I'll index using the first mag pouch for my single stack/L10/Limited/producion rigs and with the holster with my 3gun rig. I could default to the holster for everything, because I put my holster in the same place regardless of what I'm shooting, but I don't because the holster is prone to sliding on my SS/L10/L/P stuff and my mag pouches are pretty securely attached.

Nobody wants to pay for stuff made in the USA so they pay for stuff made in China (or other SE Asia country).

I've used climbing chalk. Mostly I don't have an issue with this but I'm not fighting humidity.

When all my stuff was in the non-climate controlled garage I would empty the powder measure every time I was done loading. Now that all my stuff is in the house, I've left powder sitting for over a year and saw no adverse effects. It's also really dry where I live. YMMV.

I clean them every time after I'm done loading but this is typically rifle stuff and I'm pickier with my rifle loading.

Lighter oil maybe? I have always used Remoil and give the ram a quick spray before I start loading.

I knew a guy that used Dillon lube (same as alcohol/lanolin) and I always liked picking up his brass at the range cause it made my hands silky smooth. I don't lube pistol brass but I do use my own alcohol/lanolin brew or One Shot for sizing when it calls for it.

Maybe. I've had them not chamber and stop up the gun and I've been able to chamber and shoot them so YMMV.