techj

I’m new to CZ’s and have a recently purchases (new) CZ75B and now have almost 800 rounds through it. At about 500 rounds the trigger pin starting walking out and I replaced it with a CGW floating trigger pin and also changed the trigger return spring to their reduced power version (to make it easier for me during dry fire). What I’m running into is that on occasion the trigger does not seem to reset fully and pushing it forward doesn’t help. If I pull on the trigger again (after fully releasing) it will fire properly on the next trigger pull. This is without doing anything else. My last range session it happened 4 times out of 114 shots (total of 6 different mags, each a 19 rounder) with a different mag each time and it was never the first or last round. Any ideas as to what to look for? Did I mangle the TRS when I replaced it (it was a pain to get in) or push something out of alignment? Or ??? Appreciate you folks helping a CZ newbie (although experienced with other firearms).

OAL consistency? Are you riding the slide when loading the 1st round thereby slowing it too much?

For 9 & 45 Blues are all I have used for the past few years...very happy with them even when I get smurf fingers ? during loading.

I use the tube (holds shot shells on the outside) that has a place for a hand warmer - I use the zippo (lighter fluid) powered warmers as I find they are hotter and stay hot for an entire day if I load it up.

Wait 'till you get to 60...last couple of times I had surgeries I switched to .22 and as I started to heal bunny fart loads in 9 & 38 all shooting WHO. Also, lots of dryfire WHO with some laser ammo.

I have a rubber mat that is about 3/8" thick that I cut and glued to the outside surfaces of the collator. In addition I have a lid that I fabricated from some cardboard that has the same rubber mat glued to it and the mat cut to fit the inside of collator. Those 2 - especially the lid - help the most. When I get around to fabricating some form of a switch system I'll post the details.

Only time I broke collets was when I was adjusting them to feed coated (Blue Bullets) bullets. Other than that I loaded upwards of 10k jacketed through them before I adjusted them for coated and have run probably twice that in coated with no problems. The collator is very noisy and although I have a lid and rubber around it I will probably eventually rig up a switch to auto shut off when full much like the case feeder.

I was hoping to use a CZ75B or a 1911...worst case a Glock 17 but I was hoping to sell the Glock so it isn't a viable long term option. I also have a Desert Eagle XIX in 44 that only has a top rail that I would love to be able to chrono with the Magneto Speed.

Question for those who are using ShootOff - how (or can) does it work using a TV as a projector? Right now I have it working with my Desktop PC OK but was thinking of getting a Surface tablet which can display to my TV via WiDi (which hopefully would register as a projector with the App) but didn't want to take that route if it wouldn't work with my Samsung LED TV (Aquos, 55"). Any response/help would be appreciated....and yes, I'm aware that ShootOff App developers won't provide support for a TV.

I lost interest a few seasons ago when they started to do back stories on 3rd & 4th level characters...the main plot just became too repetitive.

I like and use the PPii - it's also what we use @ our club for matches. But...if I were to buy another it would be a Shotmaxx so that it would work when I shoot indoors.

I use RX inserts with my Wiley-X Sabers...allows me to have dominant eye focus on front sight and other eye focus for distance.

I use the bullet feeder dies (and their collator) on my Hornady LNL press and they work fine...BUT...the dies are shipped setup for jacketed bullets. I run Blue Bullets in 9 & 45 and to get them to work properly had to very slightly open up the top collet and also had to spread the fingers on the lower collet. The dies do work fine but if you are going to mix and match between jacketed, plated and coated you will probably have issues with them. Just my 2 cents.

Pull it - why take any chances for a single piece of brass?

My 2 cents are that you don't have the expansion set to the right amount of flare - too much and you will get brass shavings on some seating dies and definitely on the crimping die, not enough and you'll get shavings from a plated bullet (cutting through the plating). With separate seating & crimping, definitely make sure that your seating die is NOT doing any crimping. On your FCD (I use them for all of my handgun loads) only crimp enough to let you pass the plunk test. Since you have range brass, I would take brass that is in "good" shape and run it through the sizing die. Confirm that the brass you sized will pass the gauge. Run the case through the expansion die and verify the opening size vs your bullet diameter. Even if you know what they should be recheck as you will get some variances in both cases and bullets...57K had the right info for what the measurements should be. Then after seating, setup your FCD so that there is no crimp and run it through the die. After that slowly increase the crimp into you get the correct diameter at the case mouth and it passes your gauge and the plunk test. If that works and it looks good you should be good-to-go. When I find a round that doesn't pass the gauge it put it into my practice only ammo pile as I have not found any yet that would not still run in my firearms...but I don't want to find out during a match.

Wanting to get people's actual experience with using the Magnetospeed on their handguns. Before folks start talking about the Labradar it is not an option at my indoor range as I am not allowed to have my muzzle back far enough to align itself with the LR at the shooting position. I already contacted LR re the use of the Doppler trigger and they said it would probably not work in my application. Also, due to physical problems outdoor ranges are not practical for me. So...I am interested in getting some real-world feedback. The handguns that I am most interested in using it with are 1) RIA 1911 with rail; 2) CZ Sp-01; 3) Glock 17; 4) Desert Eagle that only has a top rail (Mark XIX-44mag); 5) Ruger GP100 (no rail). Thanks in advance!

+ on the blue bullets - it's all I use in 45 & 9

Only if I'm going to do 1,000+ to make it worth my while to clean the case feeder et al. FWIW I use isopropyl alcohol to clean everything afterwards and it does take some time.

I've got the KMS on my LNL and it's great. While I don't load 40's I do load 9, 45, 38/357 and 44 and it works well to get the light into the cases for all of these cases.

I had my ophthalmologist get me an RX for dominate eye @ front focus and other eye for distance. Then had some RX inserts made up for my Wiley-X Saber glasses. They work well for me (limited competition, mostly range fun) but I do end up closing my non-dominant eye while shooting. What I like about the inserts is that I can move them to different sets of glasses (shades) and only need 1 insert.

Ballistol - you'll be clean and smell "fresh" all day long. Then, if you need to add lube to your firearm you can just use your flop sweat.

I used double 3/4" plywood sheets with wood glue between them on a 2x6 frame and 4x4 legs. Used a pine wood strip around the exposed edge and coated with polyurethane.

That's a hammer style I believe. After each rap of the hammer on a hard surface make sure that you check that case hasn't loosened. It should have come with instructions. You may need several really good raps with a loose grip on the hammer to work a bullet loose. Hard to describe in words. but it's more important to have the hammer move than how much force you use. Even a way over crimped bullet will eventually come loose - I know this from personal experience .

You are using a bullet puller - either kinetic or collet type -- aren't you? It shouldn't be very difficult with the correct tool. No offense but it sounds like you don't have much experience in reloading. I would strongly suggest finding someone in your area with some experience and working with them. While not impossible, it is harder and potentially very dangerous to rely on forums, youtubes, etc. when first starting out.

Always Glad to hear that you have the bullet feed/flare working. Re the seat & crimp, you should always adjust the seat depth first with no crimp. Then slowly adjust the crimp until it just removes the flare. Unless you are roll crimping for a revolver you will be taper crimping - more a removal of flare than anything else. You are not trying to compress or push the brass into the bullet. If your bullet is plated or coated lead then make sure that you are not cutting or deforming the coating - you will need to pull a bullet to check. Easiest way to check is to use a case gauge or better yet your barrel - REMOVED from your firearm and perform a "plunk test" which will also allow you to confirm that your seating depth is not too long for your firearm. There are lots of posts on doing a plunk test that you can find. You should also be checking the seating depth with your calipers to make sure that you are in spec per your reloading guide for your powder charge. Also, please note that when you crimp & seat with the same die that as you increase the crimp it may push the bullet deeper so your seating may require fine tuning as you go.