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techj

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  1. After trying a bunch of different brands out a few years ago I settled on the Blue's for everything that I don't need to roll crimp (357, 45 Colt) as they don't have a crimp groove. Been buying case lots from them for at least 5 years now (9 & 45) and have only had a couple (literally 2-3) of bullets over the years with a problem - they were mistakes in production/packaging. FWIW my favorite 9 bullets are their 125 TC's as I can load them long and they run well in my 1911, CZ75, Glock and Ruger Carbine.
  2. Welcome from someone just south of you.
  3. +on 4.0 of BE - used this exclusively with coated bullets and ran like a champ while still using stock springs in my 1911.
  4. Thanks - I use a lot of the Blue's in other calibers...let me know how it goes when you try them for your SAA.
  5. Thanks to all - using 5 of BE under the 250 has so far (less than 100 rounds) proven to be accurate enough for my needs and I haven't seen any sign of leading...just lube & powder residue as expected. Will be trying the same load but with the 200's soon. After I use up the BE that I have I am going to get some Trail Boss to see how that does in comparison.
  6. So, I recently acquired an SAA with a 5 1/2" barrel. A friend of mine gave a substantial quantity of Oregon Trail Laser-Cut 200 & 250 gr RNFP bullets. I am looking for suggestions on a Cowboy/low recoil load using components (aforementioned bullets and powders below) that I already have rather than buying new. The powders that I have are Bullseye, AA#5, Zip, True Blue and Silhouette. The loads will not be for competition but for plinking, limited to a maximum of 25 yards. Any insight or suggestions would be appreciated.
  7. FWIW - I use the Blues exclusively in 9 and when I got a CZ found that the bullet profile (RN) that worked so well in my other 9's wouldn't pass the plunk. So, I went with their TC profile and can now load fairly long and they pass the test - and run well - in all of my 9's. In both cases I use their 125gr.
  8. Sounds like something is binding up - have you checked the linkages on the arms that attach to the rotor? Does the rotor move freely? Is the powder drop loose and shifting in its bushing (Hornady will send you shims - for free- to tighten if you ask) ? Are the linkage arms rubbing/pressing on another die (i.e. bullet feeder)? Is the powder baffle installed? Only times I ever had problems was with extruded rifle powders that would sometimes cause the rotor to hang up a bit. BTW - the best solution I found for ensuring that powder has dropped properly was great lighting - I use this: UFO Reloading press led light … it lights from the side and from above.
  9. IMHO unless you are using bullets that would be a problem with seat/crimp in one station (i.e. some coated & plated) I would combine those two first as there would be fewer adjustments/fine tuning required vs the PTX.
  10. With Blue's 125's and PP 4.6 I was getting 1,040 fps out of a Glock 17.
  11. I use one-shot when I'm done with any given caliber (anywhere from 500 to 5,000 rounds). Haven't disassembled to clean in years.
  12. Finally made it to the range today and no problems with a little over 200 rounds...so it looks fixed. When I get to 500+ then I'll call it actually fixed.
  13. Went to the range yesterday and ran 216 rounds – problem occurred 6 times (different mags, sequence in mag, etc.). After doing some more ‘net research (thanks to the insight Tol36) I came about the info. on false resets related to the trigger bar spring not riding perfectly in the trigger bar. Closely – lots of light and a magnifier with the grips off for a bottom view – I did see where the right side was barely out of the groove whereas the left side was riding perfectly within the groove. So, I bent the right side enough to ride in the groove and dry fired some more – about 100 DA’s and 25 SA’s (racking the slide each time) without a hitch. But based upon the low occurrence rate that may not reflect the real world. Unfortunately, I can only get out to the range about 1xweek so it will have to wait until next week to find out if this fixed the problem or not.
  14. If I get a new or used gun that has a lot of gunk or preservative on it; I will soak/scrub in mineral spirits (removing the grip panels first) and then dry with compressed air. It then gets a spray on coating of Ballistol and more compressed air. To me the only downside of mineral spirits is that it will strip all of the lube off so you really need to dry and lube the firearm ASAP. After that I just use Ballistol as my CLP and it has worked well on all of my firearms. The few that require grease in certain spots I will use tetra. Only time I use anything else is if I suspect that some grit is stuck where I can't get to it without disassembly and don't want to disassemble, I will use some Hornady One-Shot gun cleaner/lube on it.
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