TRUBL

still about a month or two out......

We actually stopped doing that on this version of the UWL, as I just didn't like the way the cuts were coming out. HOWEVER, we are coming out with a next gen UWL that is going to be absolutely drop dead sexy

Don't worry about it.......run it, run it like it owes you money!!

I wish I could say that it's all about shooting.....sadly it is not. Hotels, Restaurants, Travel. The reality is I love to go to a match for all the enjoyments.....but if I have to order out, and not be able to stay at a hotel of my choosing.......I'm less inclinded to attend.

VERY similar to this.......short strokes and very minimal preload, nothing that you would notice

Not ours......the head is only .1" thick.....while the overall length is .5 to .75" long.....do we pre-load? if .1" is preload then yes, but we short stroke up to .75".....if you stack 3/4" of quarters, then you are preloading the spring 3/4"

No sir......quaters will, but a spacer with a head the size of a quarter that can go inside the spring will not

SO what you do not undestand about wave springs is that you need to limit the travel of said springs.....if not, they go flat and break. wave springs, the way they are used in buffer tubes is not they way they were designed to be used, all you are doing by running them in series is increasing preload and overall power of your set up, you'd be better served buying a strong spring. Now, if the secondary spring is seperated, like in the case of MBX, TACCOM or ARMASPEC, that is a true cushion, I only wish that Armaspec would have used a stronger secondary spring.

Spring life!!!......running a 38-40 round mag at 35+ rounds all the time (and we all do it) will shorten the life of your spring. I have 4 56 round mags.....run them typically at no more than 40 rounds, easy no think capacity for a 28-32 round COF and in 2 years, have not replaced the springs.

Using a carbine buffer, and I mean a standard length mil spec style carbine buffer.......the AR15 rifle spring is waaaaay to long and will go to solid upon recoil. Will it work for 9mm? possibly, but sending a spring to solid with dramatically shorten the life of the spring and it will weaken quickly. Like in under 500 rounds. Funny thing.....that fancy new VR80 shotgun, they tell you to break it in for the first 250-500 rounds with high energy rounds. WHY?......well, for a couple reasons, but the main one is people notice that after break in.....the shotgun seems to be a lot easier to charge......hmmmm......well if you dive into it, you find that the factory spring is going solid and when I say solid, I mean.....compress the spring all you can until you can't get it any shorter solid. Basically, you are wearing out the spring. So......can you use a rifle spring in a carbine buffer tube? YES YOU CAN, will it go solid and an wear out faster with a traditiona mil spec length carbine buffer....YES IT WILL. FYI......in case you are wondering, over here at TACCOm, with the 3 stage adjustable buffer system, we did engineer the system so that you can run a rifle spring in the carbine buffer tube......so you may ask.....isn't that spring going solid? NOPE.....our buffer is longer than carbine length so the added benefit is that out of the box you get a shorter stroke as well. and with the included short stroke stop, you even get less compression and longer life......of course we no longer use a rifle spring, rather we use pre-load washers with a carbine spring......but you can use a rifle spring in a taccom 3 stage buffer system.

totally agree with you on that one!!

steel wins every time!!......It'll wear fairly fast, get spares

So buy this, it's on sale right now for $138.00 https://www.midwayusa.com/product/928141815?pid=716391 Remove the 10/22 specific parts (crossed out) The springs??? (circled in red).....may or may not work depending on how hard your primers are. What you get is a trigger as good as the volquartsen drop in and less than half the cost with overtravel.

What you see is what you get.....the 9mm glock extension should work for the 40

Ha!!!.....thats on them.....we name it right.

you mean you like the looks of the old one better.......but you have zero clue as to how much more effective the new design is.....nice

Oh yes we do! New and improved......sexy too! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Not a game changer by anymeans, totally agree there. Lots less inexpensive ways to add weight just where you think it needs to be. Especially, if you have to go out and change a hand guard to use this new 'gizmo'

FMJ's and JHP's should have zero issues shooting thru a shrouded barrel. Lead and polycoated bullets may......as the round just leaves the end of the barrel, the flame trying to get past the back edge of the bullet (under very high pressure) will act as a flame cutter and melt the poly and/or lead just enough to spit that molten mass into the shroud. And yes it will build up over time, but if you keep after it, brush it out, use a hole saw or that fancy PVC tube.....you'll never have an issue with build up in the shroud. Will FMJ's and JHP's build up in the shroud.....absolutely!!! But no wheres near to the extent that lead will, We shoot FMJ's all the time and in many of the barrels we have over 10K rounds thru them.....for the firt time this weekend, I pushed the PVC pipe down a few of them......pretty much zero resistance, meaning.....not very much build up and nothing to the extent of affecting accuracy.

Lead tape Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Picture worth a 1000 words......18" long, serate the end. Works great on TACCOM and JP barrels. Just fits down the ID and cleans them right up.....keep after it with your regular cleaning and you will never have an issue. Cheap too!!.....get it from your local hardware store.

Lube it up.....you may think the bolt can be run dry......but the aluminum upper needs to have a light coat of oil and it's easier to lube the bolt than to lube the inside of the upper.

We don't make the extreme anymore (only in the ESSB).....because we now have the standard bolt in either Black Nitride or Polished SS.....and now either flavour comes with the famous 'dog bone' stainless steel Key. So basically, the standard bolt IS the extreme with out the NiB coating......we've found that the Black Nitride cleans up very well, with out solvent and the same is true with the polished SS. And as everyone runs their bolts with a light coat of oil (or should), the NiB is just a redundant, expensive finish. All that.....and $40 less than the extreme.

Cutting the notch in a CF tube is easy peasy actually........one way to do that is to tape up the area to be cut with masking tape and draw lines for your cut. Then take a drememl tool with a carbine burr and go to town. I'd use a mask (good luck finding one now) so you don't breathe in all the dust, it's not gonna cause cancer, but it's not good to breathe in to your lungs. Or use your GF's bra cup as a mask LOL. Finish up with a small grinding wheel to smooth the edges, then blow it off with compressed air.

I use a 507C on my Steel Challenge carbine.......seems to bracket the plates better. For USPSA, I use the 510C