TRUBL

+1 ON TRIANGLE!!!Benny knows his stuff and is reasonable too. And his turn around can be measured in days.

Now you are being silly.

Exactly......I just posted a video to the TACCOM fb page......our brake, top potted barrel. Flat, low recoil and shot pattern is not affected.......and not hanging 3/4 pound off the end

The RIA is no SJC

I still submit that the only reason why the RIA long brake seems to be softer and less rise is due to the fact that you are hanging the equivalent of 3 McDonald's quarter pounders on the end of your barrel....that beast weighs in at 3/4 pound. I understand that you put a 19 round mag in or 20 round drum in and you say that negates the extra weight......but you are still hanging 3/4 pound in an area that you should NOT be hanging 3/4 pound. Even taking the RIA short brake and modifying it is a better solution than the 'pig' brake.

I've not had an issue with mine on firing, but I can see where it ccccould be an issue......I personally do not think that the hammer goes far enough forward. So some surgery on either the hammer of hammer stop (IE Receiver) may be in order........I will say that I've not really looked into it hard, more of an observation at this point as mine has fired with every trigger pull so far. So take that with a grain of salt.

the factory forearm (not tube hand guard) weighs about 8 ounces......so you would be losing 4 ounces with the TACCOM Hand Guard.

check for dirt.....possible bent hammer? Broken firing pin? all factory on the trigger set up?

Daku did some testing on the TACCOM brake and the shot pattern was not affected at all. In my testing......recoil was reduced better than the RIA short brake and about the same as the long brake.....the rise was minimally more than the long brake, but I believe that had all to do with hanging that 3/4 pound monster on the end of the barrel than anything. On one of my VR80's I also drilled holes in the top of the barrel and coupled with the TACCOM brake it was super linear.

It is not.......ever since we went to the new patent pending ramp, we've stopped do that. It is not needed for our new barrels, but you will need to clearance that out for any other ramped barrel.

Short Stroking is edgy at best.....from a trigger view point. The relation between the bottom of the bolt and hammer comes in to play big time.....sometimes, if you are short stroked too much, the hammer is still on the ramp of bolt and not the flat......works with some triggers and bolts, not with others. That's the main reason we came out with our ESSB bolt.....the hammer on the trigger will always be on the very bottom of the bolt when short stroking the lengths we normally do.

hmmmmm.....why don't you send back that TACCOM buffer and let me preform a little magic on it. Tim

squirreldaddy.com.......cheap and stainless steel

And this is why our short stroke bolt is different than others.

Absolutely not!!! We designed the brake so that the hand guard slips over it. And we have designed retainers that replace the factory ones, that are split.....it’s really innovative and easy. The brake is very effective too!! I am sending the brakes off for anodize on Monday and we will be shipping the week after next

problem there is that to make it fit these new forearms out there.....it's got to be higher and I am not willing to go down that shopping aisle. We have our own forearm that has been doing well and is lighter than the others. My suggestion it that if you want low.....you will need to mod their hand guards to fit our product.

Brass set screw......nope, you will not mar the threads. We will suggest a locktite as well. The thread is a #8-32 and the set screw is 3/16” long.....you can tighten it enough to lock, but it you really bear down on it.....you be needing with the second brass screw provided or a re-tap to 10-32......in any event, you’ll not bugger up the threads on the barrel or crush anything on the barrel.

We are making them, there is a video on one of the VR80 Facebook pages.....about 3/4” rise and mmmmmaybe 1 1/2” pushback.....I was pretty much able to stay right on target with Remington game loads 1 ounce 1290fps. And that load really seems to make the brake work well

3.5" long......8 ports......3 ounces. Yeah baby!!!

doubt it......breaking pins? yup, use solid pins without the j hook groove. But you should be doing that with any blowback set up anyways.

So this is something that the ESSB address's.......we've known about this and been testing for months, nothing new....but insightful. If you have a welder and a mill.....it's easy. If not....well.....we got it done already and ready to rock.

So the DBRS is designed to run as is......it is already short stroked about .600", basically....those limiters that come with the ESSB is for the more conventional recoil systems. We've not come up with a solution to shorten the JP SCS as of yet, but I am sure people know how to do that already.

Not a problem......so everyone thinks that the hot thing about the ESSB is the cross cut for LRBHO. However, I will submit that the really hot thing about the ESSB is the cocking ramp for the hammer. I did a lot of development at another company for what is probably one the most reliable 22RF uppers on the market today and that bolt, does not have a feed ramp......it has a radius to the flat on the bottom.....what that does is allows for the hammer to completely cock sooner and in the case of the 9mm AR......allows for even a shorter stroke than any other bolt on the market today. Try to shorten the stroke of any bolt out there by 1"......you'll not reset the trigger. With the ESSB, you can. In the case of the DBRS.....now you are talking about disconnector dwell time and the ESSB will give you the max dwell time of any bolt on the market today. So really......for people that compete and could care less about the LRBHO.......the ESSB offers something much more significant than LRBHO alone. Tim

SO we are just now shipping the ESSB and people will be getting those this week........but the DBRS was actually designed with the ESSB in mind. And here's the kicker......you know how everyone says that 115's are not really your best choice for ammo (factory)? Well......if you ever get a hold of an ESSB and DBRS......factory 115's may just blow your socks off and rethink the whole lighter bullet thing.

On Friday.......I had this JP trigger laying around and thought.....hmmmmmm.....I wonder. So I proceeded to remove the factory trigger and dropped the JP trigger in...and first thing I saw is that you need to shim to eliminate side play. Second thing I saw is that the 4-40 set screws are never going to reach the floor of the receiver so they need to be longer and I'll be taking care of that on Monday. Now I also happen to have an old Akdal 1919 laying around that is in pieces....more on that later. SO using ONLY the JP trigger and re-using the factory disconnector, hammer and springs; I was able to get a MUCH nicer trigger. Now back to the Akdal......I noticed that the hammers on both shotgun were similar only that the Akdal hammer actually had a hole that fit the VR80 hammer pin much nicer than the VR80 hammer.....so I swapped that out and the trigger was even nicer!! Once I get the longer set screws I am pretty sure that I will have a trigger that will be pretty nice and not some custom set up........BY THE WAY.....I used the standard original JP trigger that they have on their website for $90 or so.