TRUBL

As for ramped barrels.....I believe that TACCOM and Shooting Innovations are the only ones that make a ramped barrel. There are a few companies that make lowers with built in ramps.....Lead Star being one of them. TACCOM is the only company that makes the upper 'hood' on the barrel. We all know that round nose bullets are king as a rule for reliable feeding......yes, the relationship between the mag and barrel is key as well as spring pressure for a good bullet presentation. The bad news is tolerance can make for bad things to happen. Due to the fact that there is a .200" gap between the back of the barrel and the front of the magazine allows for the rounds to most commonly nose drive into the back of the barrel......and sometimes over shoot the chamber and jam up either in the charge handle or again, into the back of the barrel. What TACCOM did (and others) by doing the feed ramp is to eliminate the possibility for the round to nose dive into the back of the barrel.....increasing reliability. And with adding the 'hood', TACCOm took it one step farther.......is it all needed? mmmmmmaybe, maybe not.....if your AR9 is running 100%.....why change? Can you get a none ramped barrel to function, absolutely!! It may or may not take a little more, but there are plenty of people out there to help. You can even retro fit a feed ramp in to most AR9 uppers if you have a problem child. Addressing the hood question.....1911's all have a hood and it is the for one reason.....to keep the round from over shooting the chamber, it is not there to align the barrel.....that is done in frame, not the slide. There are also other semi-auto pistols that have the hood as well.....you may even have some examples in your safe. Like I mentioned earlier......the Ruger PC Carbine even has a hood and they are pretty well known in those circles to feed just about any bullet style. the Ar9, for the most part is pretty reliable.....adding a feed ramp and a hood do nothing but increase the reliability. Little side testimony, When I got in to the game, I bought an NFA lower and for the life of me I could not get that thing to feed at all, the mags were way to loose.......so I set it aside. It was that lower (as well as QC10, Spikes, etc.), with a crappy South Korean drum (another POS that didn't function right), that we used it testing the reliability of the super feed option on the TACCOM barrels.....that lower is now being used (with 100% reliability) in competition today.

So a couple of things..... Since we've come out with the lead cutter.......you can run poly coated bullets with no issues and it negates the need for a cleaning port. The super feed option on the TACCOM barrels replicate the 'hood' on the popular 1911 pistols....even the Ruger PC carbine has that feature on their rifles.....this pretty much eliminates the round over shooting the top of the chamber. The super feed option in the barrels is an insert and does not have to be put in, so you can run the barrel with any standard bolt. If you do wish to take advantage of the super feed option, you have a few choices....All TACCOM bolts come with the super feed cut which can still be used with any barrel on the market as well as the super feed barrels. Or, you can send in your bolt to TACCOM to have your bolt modified free of charge and yes, again, the modified bolt will still work with any standard 9mm barrel on the market. I'll come clean....in the beginning, when we made the original ULW barrels......some shrouds (very few) had a lighter press fit and came off.....we've pretty much replaced all those, but there still may be a couple out there. as for numbers.....we ship almost 75 ULW barrels monthly and in the 4 years of manufacture we've had 10 (so far) come back for shroud replacement. All new barrels now have not had the issue, but I suspect there are still a handfull of the older barrels still out there and we do still service them when the issue comes up. As a rule, they have been the silver anodized barrel shrouds. If you feel that you have one of those barrels and suspect that it may be loose.....send it in, and it will be taken care of.

3/32" dia x 5/8" long no need to solder or crimp.......when it is in the mag tube, it will hold itself together

Unless you know what you are doing.......and from what I've seen so far.....no one has done it right. Modifying your VR80 to remove the bolt from the back will not only void the factory warranty (duh).....not dome correctly, it's down right dangerous. That aluminum tail ends up taking all the force at the end of the stroke and it was not designed to do that. The bolt was designed to stop on the rubber pad in the upper. Even with the TACCOM buffer system.....you should allow for the bolt the stop on the rubber pad (done by turning out the buffer tube a turn or two).......You can consider this a PSA

yes sir

I always had that feeling as well.......till we started doing extension prototypes that we had intended to be made from aluminum.....on the 3d printer. The prototype would work great, but once we went to the mill with aluminum.....we found that brass and aluminum don't play well together....even if you anodized the aluminum. We saw a tremendous amount of drag. So, one day we happen to have some thicker delrin (for another project).......and get basically a hold my beer and watch this thing. WOW......the inherent properties of the delrin as far as friction goes was next to nothing!!! We decided at that point all new extension designs would be delrin. Now our first one.....we kinda when overboard on the bulky side for the MPX and that thing has been flawless. The new Glock was slimmed down, just a little bigger than the aluminum design....but boy oh boy.....they feed well!! We are going back to re-design the exterior of the MPX and coming out with one for the AKV as well. Yeah, we will probably never do another mega capacity extension out of aluminum again. The bonus of doing delrin from a manufacturing point is tool wear is practically zero, no post surface process and faster machine times.......what this means is we can offer a better feeding product for less cost.

Delrin only......friction free. Afraid of polymer magazines? like magpul, lancer, etc, MPX, etc?

And they are in stock.....and made out of delrin now

two words: spring life Just because you have the ability to run 56 rounds......don't make a habit of it, you'll wear out springs in no time. Same is true with 33's and a plus 10 base pad......run it at 40 rounds and you will wear the spring out fast. BUT.....take a 56 round mag and put 35 to 40 in it and your spring will last for a very long long time.

There's a lot more out there like you........45ACp is awesome!!! I run one with the TACCOm 45acp ULW barrel as you only need 5.25 for 45acp. I can help you getting parts.....call me at the shop sometime

OAL don't mean a thing for our extension......if it runs in the parent mag, it will run in our extension. The extension will add about 5.8" to the OAL of the magazine Tim We are presently out of stock.......and I believe this makes for a good opportunity for us to redesign them, using delrin over aluminum as we've found that is a much slippery material to use for these extreme length extensions. Tim

When we get a customer that has a problem child like that......we spot weld both sides. It's rare.....but sometimes it happens.

I would have to say that our barrels are not short throated, we do use a Manson reamer and they are known to have longer throat. I do know that a lot of reloaders use some pretty interesting bullet ogives and that may cause issues but we can't ream for those, we need to keep on the high end of SAAMI spec. This is pretty normal for 9mm barrels. The good news is, you can throat ream them with ease, should you feel the need to. We do set up our barrels so that any factory round that can be loaded into a Glock magazine will chamber with ease into our barrels. One thing we do not do in house is to polish the entire chamber and I suspect that if you were to polish the chamber and break any sharp edges that mmmmmmay have be left behind, you will be good to go......we do inspect every chamber so I'd have to put a stake in the ground and say we do not have those burrs......but we are human and you know how that goes. I am happy to say that we now have thousands of barrels out there. the biggest issue I've seen is reloaded being to fat......make sure that you have your crimp die set properly. First thing I tell customers that have that issue is to measure the case mouth and compare it to 'factory' ammo.....if it's bigger.....there's an issue. I know a lot of people here use dillon dies and they are top notch!! But the savoy people use a Lee Factory Crimp die, if you aren't using one, consider going that route. Unless you are actually having issues with bullets getting stuck in the rifling, you may have an issue with your crimp die. Just my two pennies from what I've been seeing out there. Lastly......as a reloader, you are loading for the barrel at hand.....it's a bad idea in general to make a round fit in every 9mm you have, unless you are mmmmmmmaybe duplicating factory ammo.

it's ok......you don't really know is what your saying.....cool

wait for our feed ramp, don't f#ck up your barrel

SO what is it........your comp or your crown......don't compare apples to oranges......you mentioned crown, NOW you say comp? You do know there is a difference, right?

The reason for that is the system moves faster and is lighter, which you can do because of the delay.

never had the need to clean the crown on mine, and if I did have to......cotton ball on the end of a wooden dowel does the trick with ease.

no such thing as a 1911 style trigger for the AR9 style PCC......if you mean flat trigger, that's different. But flat triggers for the Ar platform rotate on a pivot point.....they are NOT straight pull back like a 1911. Anyone that thinks it is.....well, is just plain wrong. Hyperfire does a cool pad that is adjustable, CMC and JP have a flat trigger. I'm not saying flat triggers are bad or anything like that......but on a flat trigger, unless you have something to key off of, your weight and/or travel is different depending on where you place your finger on the trigger. Curved triggers, for the most part pretty much take care of that as you comfortably gravitate to the same point every time. I do like flat triggers that have a 'bulb' on the end as that is where I key in my booger hook. But no, there is no trigger on the market that mimics the straight pull back of a 1911 trigger.

They are sexy......

FYI....probably the strongest set up out there to go prone on.......shells will not "V". These are your absolute best chance of any shell holder for shells NOT to fall out going prone. ALSO, I did a video on the TACCOM FB page.....I literally strapped an 8up on each foot and walked around the shop......needless to say, nothing broke.

The idea behind the 3 stage for the 223 is that you can run a little more gas, rather than almost shutting it off.....to have a more reliable system when the rifle starts to get a little dirty. AND.....you still get a soft shooting rifle.

Good tips in that video for sure......those tips work for any extended magazine. Josh mentioned about a certain extension that just clips on the bottom lips (yeah, we all know it's the MBX)......they easy fix for that is one of two things. 1) tape the joint with electrical tape or duct tape OR 2) use electrical shrink wrap to seal the joint. In both cases.....once the extension is on the magazine.....it should never have to come off again as the bottom plate is removable for cleaning. This was never really a big surprise, when I designed the original PMAG extension while at Nordic, we saw the same issue and brought the extension up over the mag for more support (but being polymer, we still recommended taping up the joint). Knowing that, I design the TACCOM extension overlapping the parent mag as well.....but this time, being aluminum....not tape was required.

Been thinking about milling the factory irons off

no sir