bountyhunter

This is one of my pet peeves: the state of california conspires with banks to steal your money if the account goes "inactive"..... well, if it really was an account that sat dormant for years, maybe it would make sense. But out here, if you buy a time CD the state can start the process to confiscate it after one year.... even if it is a five year CD. Make sense? The only saving grace is they have to send you a letter saying you have to claim it within 30 days, pray that letter doesn't get lost. So I had a five year CD at US Bank, and I just got the letter. I went over to the bank and asked: did the account mature? Of course not, I can't touch the money for another four years without severe penalties. Exactly what "activity" am I supposed to be doing on this account then? Well, you have to come in regularly, show your driver's license and sign a paper that proves your still alive. Living in california, I have had to learn to accept what it's like when the lunatics run the asylum. But this is too much.

I run the Chip McCormick .45 ten round mags in my .40 Trojan and they work OK. I don't reload ammo so the .40 rounds are a bit shorter than .45 ACP. Not sure if they fit in "the box".

Increasing sear spring tension will usually stop hammer follow but it may be masking the real problem. The sear face cuts have to be the correct angles (and square), the hammer hooks have to be square. If you have a gun that was OK and gradually starts to follow, it's typically from wear (rounding) on the sear face cuts or the hammer hook or both. Any gunsmith can fix this with a light stoning.

If you look really closely at the sight picture as the shot fires and use the muzzle flash as a backlight, you will likely see the sight move as the trigger breaks.

I had to really fight with that on my .40 1911 open gun. I had to increase the size of the cutout and move the dot forward so I could cut the end of the bracket off some. Stronger mag springs will sometimes fix this. If it's a Glock, extractors are dirt cheap. I would replace it just to make sure.

I notice liquid oil seems to dissolve powder residue and darken up more than grease. Clean up time is about the same but grease stays put longer.

I guess it's possible but I haven't heard it before. Seeing primer wipe on the fired brass? Did the trigger pull weight change with the lighter hammer spring?

I had posted one at the top of the thread, but I have another one. I had not looked at this one previously in any depth as the focus is not great, but I think it shows the source of the problem. It looks to me like there is an indentation on the bottom of the barrel where it appears the link has been smashing into the barrel. I would guess that is what caused the failure. does look like it.

Well I discussed sending the gun in and they did not seem to think that was warranted. I guess if it happens again then maybe the gun will have to go back. Surprises me. I thought that the links were not supposed to be stressed unless there was a barrel fit problem (?) Interesting. I would have a really close look at the "mating surfaces" and see if anything looks like it's not fitting well. Let us know what the gunsmiths at STI decide on it.

The curved area shown looks wierd. Makes me wonder if there is a problem with the cylinder stop. It should be peening a nice straight edge not curving. That is definitely where it is jumping the slot. I would fit a new stop and spring and see what gives after that.

I would run away from that price. You could get a new STI Trojan in .40 for that money. I might spend $700 tops for the springfield.

The calls we get also threaten to arrest you if you don't send them money. I love the fact they are giving you a call back number.... because I make a game of seeing how angry I can make the guy by continuously calling him back. ME: "I think there's something wrong with your phone, we got disconnected." SCAMMER: "I HUNG UP ON YOU!" ME: "Oh, that wasn't very nice of you."

Interesting. I didn't know it was legal to do that.

Wow. I can kick rocks better than that.

That's even worse, quality control on ammo now is non existent..... I saw lots of oversized reload ammo that would jam guns.

Or maybe a weak case decided to let go. From an engineer's perspective, looks like only two possibilities: Either the case had a weak spot or it was subject to excessive pressure.

My Para 1640 had severe problems when new. I ended up having to recut the feed ramp. On yours: Won't eject spent round: first thing to check is extractor. Barrel throat may be tight. Do you "size check" the reload ammo in the barrel before shooting? Try dropping it in and check for the "plunk" sound. If the ammo is tight, it will jam. If you are getting a 3-point jam on the new round loading up, it can be a combination of things. The barrel throat may be tight, may need to "round over" the top of the feed ramp, and the magazine may be riding low in the frame. Also make sure the overall length of the round is in spec.

How do you get the empty cases out without an extractor that the plunger was holding in? Push every one out with a rod? Must be different than mine. The FP safety plunger doesn't hold the extractor in on my G35. I shot the thing for years without it. Really? What retains the extractor on your G35? I believe it is the long spring loaded rod that runs longitudinally through the slide and is retained by the rear plate in the slide. That also provides the spring load to the extractor.

Me too but I always get yelled at for suggesting removing safeties..... In the case of Glocks, it is a fast way to find out if the striker is dragging on the safety and causing lights strikes (like it was on my G35).

or make your own by duct-taping a ziploc bag to a plastic coat hanger. I just keep putting bullets in the bag until the trigger breaks, repeat a couple times, then weight the whole mess (coat hangar included). It gets repeatable accurate results on the cheap for folks that only do this sort of thing once or twice. Or use a luggage scale with a hook if you got one handy. My luggage scale was accurate enough to measure the 6 lb pull on my stock Rock Island .45 and the lightened 4.25 lb pull after I installed the C&S drop-in kit. From what I read on the S&W E-Series, it was supposed to have a stock 4 lb trigger pull. What happened to the OP's E-series gun? Way back in the day, I calibrated a plastic milk jug with lines showing pound and half pound increments where I added water until the trigger broke. You can use dental floss for a "loop" to put around the trigger.

+1 Definitely worth the money.

How do you get the empty cases out without an extractor that the plunger was holding in? Push every one out with a rod? Must be different than mine. The FP safety plunger doesn't hold the extractor in on my G35. I shot the thing for years without it.

It may be the light striker spring, but more likely the striker is dinging into the firing pin blocking plunger safety. Take the striker out and look very closely near the front and see if there are dings. The screwed up (IMHO) design relies on a bump on the trigger bar to lift the safety plunger up so the striker goes by. Doing ANYTHING to customize or alter the trigger bar/disconnector/striker can change where the striker releases so the trigger bar may not be fully lifting the plunger out of the way and the striker can be dragging or bumping the plunger. Guess how much time I wasted learning that. A quick test is to remove the safety plunger and see if the light strikes go away. Then you know where the problem is.

I think that is totally cosmetic only. I have a CZ-85 that came new with some serious gouges in the breech face (much worse than yours) and has never had a problem. I see small dings in breech faces a lot, never causes problems.

From the Brownells article (which also has pictures) on how to adjust a sear spring accurately: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=10297/GunTechdetail/2-lb-Trigger-Pull?avad=avant&aid=41227&cm_mmc=affiliate-_-Itwine-_-Avantlink-_-Custom+Link