bountyhunter

My Para 1640 (5") came stock with a 18# spring. If going lower, I would definitely use a buffer.

When I saw this I thought it was a joke. Both me and my wife swear the dress is gold and white... and some people see it as blue and black. The funny thing is: the dress really is blue and black. http://www.theguardian.com/technology/blog/2015/feb/27/science-thedress-colour-illusion-the-dress-blue-black-gold-white

That was kind of my point. When poor people are getting tried, it's a whole different ball game. As for: Remember the Phil Spector trial? Sometimes knowing who done it actually slows everything down because of all the defense maneuvering. But your point that money buys a better defense is certainly true.

delete why bother

It's funny, because seems like they ran the trial like they were double parked and late for a party. When the OJ trial was run in kali, it took them weeks just to decide what to have for lunch. I think the Texas jury came back in about two hours and I think that included lunch and a nap...... not saying he wasn't guilty, just never saw a murder trial run at warp speed before.

You are 100% correct, but nobody believes it when I post it. For some reason the myth that a longer FP must work better than stock just won't die.... titanium does work better than steel because of less mass gives more velocity and the lighter spring eats up less strike energy too. I side-by-side tested the longer pins (same model 66 guns) against the SW pins and there was no difference in the amount of mainspring force needed to ignite. I suspect that if the longer pins "fix something" the gun probably has a different problem like excessive end shake or too much gap between the cylinder and breech face.

Answer to both questions: not necessarily. Depends on the round, loading, and barrel wall thickness. In MANY cases it will bulge the barrel but not harm the shooter. I know of a case with a 9mm 1911 where it did no harm at all but that barrel is very thick walled. I think in most cases, gun will be damaged. I think injuring shooter is actually rare for squib fires, but not so rare with double charge loads especially in .45's with a stainless steel barrel. Double charge loads are dangerous.

Except supply doesn't change that fast. It's just gouging. Like how gasoline went up 25 cents out here (California) in TWENTY FOUR HOURS....... and ask why and they start the old song about plant maintenance and summer blend and phases of the moon.

Panic stampede. Same old same old.

I have some tiny vise grips that I put masking tape on the jaws for delicate grabbing. I don't know why so many broken firing pins in your 627 but allow me a stupid question: What happens if you use a stock .495" SW firing pin? I would check the FP channel to make sure there's nothing in it that drags on the FP that could keep it from retracting quickly. Clean it thoroughly with Q tip and acetone. On the three C+S pins I bought, I had to polish the sides to get rid of the casting flash so they would move smoothly. And as somebody else noted, make sure your FP spring is good (I would replace it anyway). FYI: I broke two of the three C+S pins I bought pretty quickly, threw the third one in the garbage and went back to SW firing pins and never had another problem.

I probably fired at least 50k rounds of Sellier + Bellott in my life and they all were pretty easy to ignite. No problem with reduced power springs. The only brand I ran into that was really bad was UMC, not sure why.

I have a bunch of model 66 guns and they are very accurate. threads discussing EDM and ECM rifling in SW barrels. http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?20672-EDM-rifling-in-Smiths http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-revolvers-1980-present/90747-question-about-rifling.html http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-revolvers-1980-present/345656-edm-barrels.html

The difference is a gun like a Glock is fired by "pulling through" the trigger since it gives no indication of break. A 1911 works best if you stage the trigger to the break point, stabilize everything then break the shot.

First thing to do with light strike misfires is replace the strain screws. Even a slight reduction in length can cause misfires. I couldn't count how many I have seen that have had their tips shaved and they do shorten up in time. The end "mushrooms" a bit. I would definitely put in new screws before extended firing pins.

Absolute BS. No such federal law, it is self imposed restriction that both UPS and Fed Ex require. I already went through this with them, they admitted it is simply an arbitrary rule to get the guns out of their possession as fast as possible to reduce chance of theft. Anyone holding an FFL can ship handguns using US postal service parcel post which takes a week, so there is no "overnight federal law". You can ask the FFL at your local range to ship it and save about $60 compared to UPS overnight.

+1 I just bend the standard spring. You can always bend it back if you get stubborn primers. I take it you just put more bend in the spring thus making the spring shorter. Correct. More curve = less spring force, flatter spring is more force. I use a mandrel type bend so it doesn't "edge" the bend you want a gradual curve. I usually "center" the bend point about 1/3 of the way up from the bottom, but Jerry seems to like to put a more severe bend higher up the spring. I'm sure either way would work.

+1 I just bend the standard spring. You can always bend it back if you get stubborn primers.

Did somebody cut down the strain screw? The wolff RP mainsprings typically are designed to work very well but you have to have a full size strain screw. People often file the end to reduce trigger pull weight.

Properly installed, and with a good strain screw, you should be firing probably 99% of the ammo around. Very rare to have misfires, but the Wolff ribbed mainspring does taper the end of the strain screw (over time) turning the screw in and out. The shorter screw length eventually reduces spring force. I think you are confusing the rebound slide spring with the mainspring? The RB spring does not affect ignition at all.

I have not tried it. Looks like the viscosity is pretty stable over temp.

I didn't open a thread, just posted the information for reference. AFAIK, you are still allowed to read the thread. If that's a problem I'll delete it. The defect of over/under rotated barrels is very common, hence being #1 the list.

At least, that's what the latest scammers will say when they call. They say you owe back taxes and if you don't give them a credit card number, a federal agent is coming to your house to arrest you. As a public service, I hope you will keep the fool on the line and waste as much of his time as possible because that's time he isn't calling somebody else. You should act very scared and give him a credit card number..... of course, make sure it's a FAKE number and a fake name. He won't know your name because they use a high speed auto dialer that just rips through random phone numbers and one of their scammers intercepts the call as they come up. So give him fake info and then when the credit card number comes up invalid say: "I don't under stand, I have the card right here." Of course, you still want to pay them so tell them you will get a cashier's check if they will give you an address where to send it..... Anyway, be creative and do everything you can to drive the guy nuts. BTW: these guys leave a "callback" phone number for you that has a local area code to try to make you think they are local but it goes through a router over to India. The fun thing is that means you can keep calling them back..... which I did several times. I kept calling and each time I would tell the guy: "There must be a problem with your phone, we keep getting disconnected..." Eventually the guy screamed into the phone: "I HUNG UP ON YOU!" Well, that wasn't very nice of him......

I thought there was a dot style that can fit into a standard bomar cut already in the slide? http://www.browe-inc.com/categories/Mini-Reflex-Sights/DOCTERsight-Mini-Reflex-Sight/ Expensive, but still cheaper than getting a second slide built and fitted which typically costs as much as a new gun.

Take six empty resized cases all the same brand with you, load them in the cylinder and check the timing by slowly pulling the trigger and look to make certian the cylinder bolt locks up before the hammer falls, I normally put a slight drag on the cyllinder by resting my thumb against it. Also take a set of feeler gauges with you and check the gap between the empty case and the firing pin recoil shield .007 inches is perfect and .012 is acceptable, check this for each cylinder, they shoild all be within .002 inches. Next check the gap between the barrel and cylinder .003 is good .04 is ideal and anything over .008 is too much, you should check both sides as some of the newer guns have as much as .005 differnce, this is definately not good. Next do a visual inspectiion are their any mars in the finish, does the barrel look line it is on straight, If everything checks out chances are you will not have any problems witht he gun, I see the GS have 10 in stock check as many as you can untill you find the one you like best, Good advice, I might add a couple: 1) Check hammer for drag marks on the frame. 2) See if rear sight is cranked all the way to one side or the other, sure sign barrel is rotated and not lined up. 3) Check gap between back of empty brass and recoil shield all the way around, not just at the top. I have seen several that were not square. 4) Check cylinder lockup in all six positions. Cock hammer, pull trigger and hold trigger pulled and gently check cylinder for any rotational wobble (play). A well fitted new gun will not have play in lockup.