bountyhunter

You have a Para 1911 with a 9mm barrel and .40SW slide? I wondert if somebody swapped barrels at some point in it's life? No wonder it won't extract. Been down this road a few times with guns where a 40-9 mm conversion barrel is installed in a .40 slide: The 9mm case is tapered, as it extracts from the barrel the extractor has to be able to pivot far enough to pin the rim against the edge of the breech face to hold tension, but the .40 breech face dimensions are a lot wider then 9mm. Guns with a pivoting (spring loaded) extractor like Beretta, Glock, Browning HP, etc have an extractor with enough "range" to do it. A "fixed" extractor design like a 1911 does not so the case loses extractor tension as it pulls out of battery. Springfield XD has the same problem. They will fail to extract as yours does.

I ran the EFK Firedragon 40-9 conversion barrel in my G35. Works as advertised. They make a good barrel.

What's really funny is having a name like Laborde..... because a lot of those bozos call up and ask to speak to Mr. LABRADOR....... I just say: WOOF!

I thought 19# was the most common mainspring (hammer spring) for a single stack 1911 but recoil sprig depends on a lot of factors like caliber and ammo power.

Using the lightest main spring reduces trigger pull weight. It also makes the gun unlock from battery faster which reduces cycle time. Firing pin spring: stronger spring makes the FP retract faster to prevent primer drag, but too strong of a spring eats up hammer strike energy and can cause misfires. It's all a matter of getting all the springs in balance.

They make grow light bulbs of various light wavelengths that fit standard dual fluorescent 48" (shop light) fixtures. Some people would "mix" the bulbs: one grow bulb and one standard white tube per fixture. Guess how I know that. http://www.bulbs.com/eSpec.aspx?ID=11107&Ref=Plant+Grow http://www.ebay.com/itm/4FT-T5-HO-Grow-Light-2x-6500K-48-Hydroponic-Fluorescent-Bulb-Veg-Bloom-Lamp-Kit-/191316586363?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c8b5b6f7b

From what I read, you can get some relief from the nosedive problem by using .38S magazines and loading the bullets a shade long. I currently shoot standard 115 grain 9mm FMJ using Mecgar and CMC magazines and they work fine as long as I don't try to insert a full mag on a closed slide.

Nosediving. Is it nosediving on the first round of a full mag? Seems to be a chronic problem on 9mm single stack mags, even Mec Gars. Mine were 9 round mags and would always do it if inserted on a closed side, but would feed the top round OK if inserted on an open slide. The extra "smash" onto the round stack made it nosedive. On mine I put in some "+1" follower/spring sets to increase capacity to ten rounds and then they worked well as 9 round mags, but had the nose dive thing on the tenth round. The nosediving occurs even if you strip one or two rounds. This is a problem when loading to division capacity. I am sure it is a design issue due to being single stacked more than anything. Have you ever loaded any of these mags to 10 and then tried to strip a round out by hand? It is a pain. Honestly I don't see how this issue could be fixed without finding some way to keep the front all of the rounds pointing slightly upwards. I agree. It's the stupid tapered case of the 9mm round. Stack them and the nose of the top round is going to be trying to point downward. I thought that the Metalform (?) magazines had a mini feed ramp at the front edge to re direct the nose of the top round upward, not sure if that works.

Slide Glide mixed with FP-10 to adjust the viscosity as needed.

Nosediving. Is it nosediving on the first round of a full mag? Seems to be a chronic problem on 9mm single stack mags, even Mec Gars. Mine were 9 round mags and would always do it if inserted on a closed side, but would feed the top round OK if inserted on an open slide. The extra "smash" onto the round stack made it nosedive. On mine I put in some "+1" follower/spring sets to increase capacity to ten rounds and then they worked well as 9 round mags, but had the nose dive thing on the tenth round.

That is a shade late but it's also probably how most SW's in the world work. As long as the cylinder locks in before the hammer falls with rounds in chamber under normal firing conditions (normal trigger pull), I don't work on it. It sounds like this gun is OK as is.

I just installed a new slide stop in my Trojan and had to trouble shoot this. The detent slot cut in the end of the slide stop was keeping the stop from activating reliably. I flattened the edge of the slot off and problem solved. FWIW: the stop that came stock with my Trojan had no slot, neither did my Para. The extra upward pressure on the mag gives more force and helps the reluctant stop go up. But if the mag body is too high, it can cause other problems like feed issues. Since the gun is new, it may very well be short cycling a bit. My new Trojan and even my new SIG 226 would not lock back a magazine firing until after a few hundred rounds.

You adjust as much main spring force as you need to reliably ignite the primers on the ammo you shoot. I do that by bending the mainspring. Then, you adjust the rebound slide spring force to get proper trigger reset action. One way is to keep many bags of different weight rebound slide springs and another way is to keep a bag of stock spring and shorten (clip off coils) until the reset is just right. You should be able to pull the trigger all the way and then SLOWLY allow it to reset and still have it reliably push the hammer back.

On the model 66 guns that I used to shoot in competition, I could get the DA pulls down to about 5# with factory parts and using handloads (soft primers). I think with reduced mass aftermarket hammers you can get it into the 4# ballpark.

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You can do something like this using regular glow paint on standard sights: Just use green on the rear blades and yellow or orange on the front blade. I have it on my 686 defense gun. I use "glow paint" that glows after light is shined on it. Tritium sights are OK. My main gripe is they are very expensive and fade out after a few years.

+1 I have at least 30k rounds through my Trojan 9mm. Really reliable and accurate.

First hand, I haven't had this issue, even with 40-50 rounds of pretty quick shooting. Moreover, every case in a revolver (or auto) is forced back when the gun is fired. It would take a lot to force it back and expand it so much that it won't move in and out (have some play) that it would cause binding. In other words, if a case is forced back hard enough to bind the gun, I'd think ejection would be tough as the case would really have to be stuck in there. That's what I thought. The brass expands at ignition (would bit into the cylinder walls) but the brass shrinks back a bit after ignition. I've never seen brass expand and not come back down such that it was too tight to move in the cylinder. That problem can happen with steel case ammo, but didn't think it would on brass. Steel does not return like brass which is why steel case ammo is hard on extractors.

I wonder if the cylinder could be machined with some rotary milling lines inside the tubes to give something for the brass to grab onto when it expands so it wouldn't try to move back.

Not sure what "cases backing out is", I know the cylinder will bind if the ejector rod gets loose and backs out. I have heard cases where the titanium cylinder can cause a problem if it gets hot enough because the coefficient of expansion is different than steel. The cases I have personally had with cylinder binding and lockup on PC guns was caused by insufficient clearance between the cylinder and recoil shield (breech face).

Glucosamine and chondroitin sulphate.

It's also very important to be gradual and be VERY careful if you are on the older side of 40. I still remember way back when I was very into shooting and started some "strengthening" exercises for shoulder endurance. I soon developed a chronic pain in my right shoulder which the doctor diagnosed as tendonitis.... which took MONTHS of agony before it started getting better. Anytime you start exercising... proceed with great caution.

They forced me to get signatures from at least five employers contacted per week on the form. No mailing, had to be in person.

What you saw for quality and finish is what I got on the PC 627 I bought a few years back. I posted details. But I have gotten some nasty pot shotting and personal attacks here from somebody who apparrently thinks SW can do no wrong, so I will just be an observer in these threads from now on. My personal opinion is that the truth should be posted as that's the only way to force SW to stop shipping very expensive junk as quality guns. In real estate we would call it a great fixer upper with a lot of potential.....

Double fires mean a problem in the firing group like hammer, sear and disconnector. I think the disconnector is the first culprit to suspect. This should be fixed before shooting the gun. For testing purposes, only load two or three rounds in the mag in case it goes for multiples beyond the value of "two".