bountyhunter

I have noticed a lot of places use "shipping and handling" to gouge people and fatten their bottom line. Amazon is famous for it. What ticks me off is most places illegally charge sales tax on S+H too which tacks another 9.5% on top. Whenever I order anything, I check the S+H charges before placing the order and shop other online stores to get the best deal. Amazon's scam is you pay for Amazon Prime to get "free shipping" and then each vendor simply jacks the price up to cover S+H if they are "prime".

Got up to high 70's today.

For as long as I can remember, 9mm has been the orphan stepchild they only tool up to build when the other calibers get slow in sales....

I was referring to the $60/500 at my range where there is PLENTY of ammo. 12 cents a pop for .22 LR?

Springfield's have a proprietary sized firing pin. It is between the two customary sized 1911 pinsSee part # 826: http://www.edbrown.com/extractor.htm They generally do.The 1911 uses an inertial firing pin. What is a longer pin going to do for you? The pin is no longer touching the hammer when it strikes the primer. It doesn't do a thing to increase strike energy. "Longer must work better" is a scam IMHO, but who knows. Reducing the FP mass will increase strike energy, maybe if there is a titanium version? Going to an extended firing pin has allowed me to run a 17 lb mainspring,and a standard firing pin spring with increased reliability. I have found this consistently true across multiple 2011's I agree going from extra power to standard on the firing pin spring will increase ignition energy. The standard spring eats up less energy as the FP moves forward after being struck by the hammer. As for extended firing pins: isn't there a danger of "primer wipe" as the gun unlocks before the FP has fully retracted? Seen that on some guns even with standard FP. Seems like arbitrarily extending the FP tip might screw up the unlock cycle.

The reason I asked the question about the titanium firing pin is because titanium is lighter than steel. Lighter equals less mass, less mass equals less inertial once the hammer strikes the FP. Everyone I have ever talked with that installed an aftermarket titanium FP has had issues that were easily solved by going back to steel. That's interesting because the opposite is true in most cases. It's strike energy that usually is the important parameter and that is 1/2 mass x velocity (squared), so reducing mass to increase velocity usually gives better ignition. If you see products like Lightning Strike strikers, the key to increased strike energy is reducing the striker mass. Same thing with Apex hammers, reduce mass gives better ignition. Not sure why 1911 firing pins would not follow that rule.

shortage = GOUGING A time honored tradition.

Springfield's have a proprietary sized firing pin. It is between the two customary sized 1911 pins See part # 826: http://www.edbrown.com/extractor.htm They generally do. The 1911 uses an inertial firing pin. What is a longer pin going to do for you? The pin is no longer touching the hammer when it strikes the primer. It doesn't do a thing to increase strike energy. "Longer must work better" is a scam IMHO, but who knows. Reducing the FP mass will increase strike energy, maybe if there is a titanium version?

An XP firing pin spring will make light strikes worse by eating up more strike energy. Assuming the original FP is of proper length (not broken off or worn away), I doubt just making it longer will help with light strikes. These will help: 1) Increasing hammer spring force 2) If it's a series 80, make sure there isn't anything dragging on the FP

Plenty of them down at my local range at $60/500

+1

I am using the free AVG anti virus program for years and so far it has killed every virus trying to get my computer.

Loves to hear himself talk.... too bad he's the only one. So, you can't count? If I'm the only one, who started the thread? Forgot, you didn't read the thread. You might want to, contains a lot of good info: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=187688 Quote the OP: If I'm "the only one", did I register under a different name to start the thread? And in another identity, I said: If I am the only one, I must have posted this too: I said what I had to say. If your position is that we should all buy Glocks and sell the defective SW guns to other people (as stated in the above posts) I think that pretty much settles the issue.

I do own a Glock. SW revos are still my favorite guns as evidence by the fact the gun that resides in my nightstand is a 686+. It's just sad that their production and quality has degenerated to the point that it is an anomaly when you see a new gun with no glaring defects. Yep. buy a Glock. Listening to you whine about the same gun for 4(?) years is getting old.I have to second this notion. If you don't like a product you bought, sell it and buy something else.No one in the 1911 forum blinks an eye when they spend that much on a pistol and find it needs a bit of work. Can we lock this conversation and move on to something useful? Your question that: reflects your complete lack of understanding because this thread IS doing something useful. It is informing potential customers of chronic problems which makes them informed consumers. It also highlights SPECIFIC problems seen frequently on new SW revos which alerts them what to look for when examining a new gun they might buy. That means they won't end up writing one of these threads when they get stuck with a dog that should have never been shipped by SW. So, as I said, if you don't think such threads are useful, you are cordially invited to exit the thread if it offends you. And speaking of comments that are completely useless: Is that really an intelligent suggestion? If you get a defective gun, sell it to some other sucker and make it his problem? Let's all keep quiet about the problem, take the "hit" on cost from buying a dog product and buy something else? How about we get SW to ship decent quality products which they are completely capable of doing? WHAT TO LOOK FOR ON A NEW SW: Just to summarize, here are the gross defects to look out for: 1) Barrel not straight. You can often just eyeball the "ribs" and see if they align with the frame, but another sure sign is if the rear sight is cranked all the way to one side of the other. 2) Drag marks on the sides of the hammer. 3) Forcing cone chewed up. Open the cylinder and inspect the end of the forcing cone for gouging with a file. Also check for the end being flat/square and not rounded off from filing. 4) Side plate not fitted. Run your finger around the seam where the side plate mates with the frame. I have seen plates so tight that the edge "ridges up" where it meets the frame. You don't want this. FEELER GAUGE CHECKS 5) Check barrel/cylinder gap. For a while, they were all running .010 - .012" with one I saw at .015. Best range is about .004" - .008" with a limit of about .010". 6) Check cylinder to breech face gap. Nominal range is about .062" - .064". Check all the way around (not just at the top) as some guns have spots which are not square.

I do own a Glock. SW revos are still my favorite guns as evidence by the fact the gun that resides in my nightstand is a 686+. It's just sad that their production and quality has degenerated to the point that it is an anomaly when you see a new gun with no glaring defects. Yep. buy a Glock. Listening to you whine about the same gun for 4(?) years is getting old. Well, you just contributed a lot to the thread. BTW: who started the thread? OH, yeah.... IT WAS SOMEBODY ELSE WHO HAD A SIMILAR EXPERIENCE FOUR YEARS AFTER MINE. In case you still don't get it, I'll explain it more slowly so you can. People WHINE about getting screwed on internet forums to let other people be warned so they won't get screwed in the same way. They also do it to force manufacturers to clean up their act or face going out of business. Then why don't you go someplace else where people enjoy spending $1300 for guns that are full of defects? People here don't.

More details about this please. The extractors are fit to the gun at the factory. For a long time it was a factory only part. Was the extractor factory new or used? What was your process of installing it? It should have been too tight to work with a standard hand if new. Did you narrow up the hand until it worked? The correct process is to cut each tooth until it fits a standard hand. The factory uses a hardened cutting hand for this. I bought a used model 14 that had short carry up and when I went to check it, I saw that the factory smith had left the ratchets "full fat size" and stoned about .010" off the hand to thin it to match. That was great because I could easily tighten up the action using a standard hand.

I'd wager half the used SW revos out in the world do the same thing. As long as you get cylinder lock on a normal pull, it's fine. Also: a loaded cylinder is heavier and has more rotational inertia than an empty one and the momentum helps carry it to lock. Your gun is probably OK to shoot, but fitting a new oversize hand should restore "like new" carry up.

SAVING MONEY Only an FFL can ship a handgun via US postal service, if an individual ships it has to be by private carrier (UPS or Fed Ex). Their policy is to require overnight service which was about $100 the last time I priced it. I used the FFL at our range to ship a gun and it cost about half that, charged about $40 for his time and about $10 for the standard shipping on USPS.

I am no lawyer, but I do know I checked the law when I shipped my brother a pistol about three years back and at that time, it was required to go from an FFL here to an FFL in his state. You can ship it to another state FOR YOUR OWN USE without that (I think) but if it is changing possession, I think it requires FFLs. I really wanted to avoid the FFL receive at his end because that seemed like wasted money to me, but it was mandatory. Check your state's laws.

Couldn't be more true. You need special files, and have to be very careful. I mark each ratchet on the top with a sharpie to make sure I know which one I am working on. I also use a sharpie on the surface of the ratchet that rubs against the hand to see exactly where the highest spot is to make sure I only take metal off where needed. I always remove the hammer and rebound slide when fitting a hand to be able to better feel the fit against the ratchets.

It is my understanding that any pistol which ships across state lines MUST be sent from an FFL in the sender's state to an FFL in the state of receipt (only exception I know of is returning it to gun maker for repair or to gunsmith for repair/modification). That is a federal law and not a state law. As for California, if you are selling a pistol to someone in California, it must go to an FFL in the state and the gun must be on the California roster of approved handguns. And it must be the EXACT model with number shown, not similar year, finish, etc. Since you are not shipping magazines, I assume you know nothing exceeding ten round mags may be imported to Cali except for LE. Note: if the gun is an approved purchase for LE, the roster list restriction doesn't apply. This is the current approved roster for Cali. http://certguns.doj.ca.gov/

Hm. So should I try this in lieu of using my only spare or just go ahead install the (not oversize) spare and follow the directions in the video to the letter? The part about filing the window in the frame is new to me. I'm starting to get the impression that the oversize parts are not just "a bit more metal" but part of more extensive work. Did I just use the wrong part to start with? If I'm not going for an extreme action/lockup job then the regular not-oversize part is the one I should have used to begin with? Understand: there are three primary wear surfaces: 1) The hand itself 2) The frame window edge farthest from the gun center 3) The ratchets Installing a new standard hand addresses #1, but in my experience, a standard hand alone doesn't usually fix it. You ned an OS hand cut down to fit. A standard hand runs about .092 ballpark and OS hand is about .099" ballpark if memory serves. I never had to file one because the wear on the window edge always opened it up enough. But if you have to file it, only file the edge nearest gun center. The other edge is the one that wears naturally.

With all due respect to Mr Potterfield in the video, he is grossly oversimplifying a fit process in a way that could really lead somebody to screw up a gun. If you did put in an new oversized (properly fitted) hand and needed another one in a relatively short time, that tells me that the hand probably wasn't fitted right or the ratchets need balancing. Check carry up on all cylinder positions and note how much disparity there is between the "best" one and worst. If there is a fair amount of difference, the hand alone won't fix it. The hand has to be fitted to the "loosest" ratchet and then each other ratchet in turn is fine tuned to the new hand. You end up with perfect carry up on all positions and won't need a new hand for a long time. I recommend gunsmith fitting if you have not done this before.

All SW revos develop carry up "failure" over time simply from wear of the components. That's why they make oversized hands and oversized cylinder stops. To fix the carry up problem, an oversized hand will probably do it but tey do need to be fitted and I also balance the ratchets when I fit a new hand. I have had to do this on multiple SW's over the years. The "left versus right" thing probably means you get a shade better trigger actuation pulling from the right because of wear but the fix is not shims (IMHO).

I do own a Glock. SW revos are still my favorite guns as evidence by the fact the gun that resides in my nightstand is a 686+. It's just sad that their production and quality has degenerated to the point that it is an anomaly when you see a new gun with no glaring defects.