bountyhunter

What would happen if you left the cocking spur on and just trimmed off the"quarter moon" area?

I got some .010" thick aluminum and made a shim and bonded it to the top of the trigger. The piece was exactly the width of the frame track and full length which is to say I bent it down and glued it to the trigger at the rear. Worked pretty well.

I think EFK Firedragon is the best for the money, I have about four or five guns running 40-9 conversions including a Glock 35. Have not tried Lone Wolf but word on them is generally positive. Nobody 100% guarantees drop in (read their websites) but EFK fitted mine free when it didn't fit in my SW XD.

The STI is glass-filled nylon, same thing as the "polymer" used in a lot of guns. It's basically a fiberglass polymer blend. I'm by no means against it, as I own many glocks and such and love them. It's just the nostalgia of an all metal 1911. The vertical movement is on the pre-travel so I'm hoping that by adding a trigger with pre-travel adjustment it will add some tension and help with the play. I just went through this on my Trojan. I don't think pre travel has anything to do with vertical play, you can still grab the trigger and wiggle it straight up and down if there is vertical clearance (mine always had too much as well).

When I tuned mags, this would make me check two things first: 1) the mag was locking in too high in the frame. Some STI frames carry the mag high and people install different mag releases to lower it a bit. 2) Have the mag feed lips been tweaked open to raise the nose of the round to enhance feeding? If so, the mag follower may be getting high enough to bump the slide stop foot with a round still in the mag. Guess how I learned that..... The other thing is make sure you have the correct slide stop for the 9mm caliber.

The guy I used to work with would always rip a fart so loud the airports would complain about the noise..... Then to emphasize it, he would always swivel his head and look across the room and say: "What?" as if somebody had called his name.

I doubt if it is taller than about 0.922". My STI was about 0.930 stock size.

I thought the STI triggers were some kind of fiberglas filled material? Anyway, I am running one and it's a good part.

I had a thread going on this exact topic a while back with no satisfactory resolution. I highly recommend you measure with calipers the height of the trigger you have, see how much play there is and estimate how tall the trigger needs to be to get snug fit. Here's what I found out (the hard way): Standard 1911 triggers listed as "oversized" run about 0.922" tall. The "drop in" ones run about 0.915". I bought an "oversized" trigger and it was very loose so I ended up fabricating an aluminum shim and bonding it to the top of my trigger and shaving to size. Oddly enough: the Kuhnhausen manual lists the size of the trigger as 0.930", and I have no idea why it has "eveolved" smaller in size? Never got any straight answer on that.

I don't know how easy it was, but a gunsmith built a 6" longslide in .40 that dropped onto the receiver of my 9mm Trojan and works very well using the same (original 9mm) ejector and slide stop. I routinely swap them back and forth. So it is possible. The two slides shown in the pictures above in 40 and 9 go onto the same 9mm receiver.

Took a couple of days to get the pictures to explain what I was talking about. I will freely admit I have no idea what Kimber does or why. If it's possible to get a 40 slide to run 9mm? Who knows, there are some REALLY good reasons why it's a VERY bad idea. The pictures attached illustrate. I have both .40 and 9mm Trojan slides. I took the picture with the Weigand head gauges which are the size of the case heads and also show firing pin alignment. First off, measured 9mm and .40 cases at the rim and the latter is ballpark .030" larger. What that means is clear from the images. 1) The first pic shows a 9mm gauge inserted in a 9mm slide, showing proper alignment. 2) The second pic shows what happens when you put a 9mm gauge into a 40 slide, or any slide with a standard .40SW breech face cut. There is no extractor tension so I had to use a toothpick tip to shim it so i would stay in place for a photo. Note how far the gauge is misaligned from the firing pin opening. The size difference between 9mm and 40 cases is .030", so one would need to bend the extractor over .030" to get some tension on the rim here. 3) The third pic shows a 40 slide and 40 gauge with extractor correctly adjusted shows proper alignment.. 4) The fourth pic shows the 9mm shimmed round going toward the .40 barrel showing how the round is misaligned. This shows the problem: if it was a 9mm barrel, the barrel would have to "force align" the round as the slide pulled into battery. To do that it would have to force it sideways against the extractor to center up on the breech face. That would take some serious force and cause potential cycle problems. It would also rapidly bend the extractor and lose tension.

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Was not a person from this forum.

I sometimes sell people things over the internet (parts or small items) when I read in a forum somebody needs something I happen to have. The way I have always done it is simple: We agree on the price and I send them the item. If it works and is what they want, they send me a check. Done it many times, no problem. Recently I sold somebody some bike parts for $50 and the guy never sent me a check. I mailed him a note (very polite) and eventually he did send me a check. No problem. Until the check bounced....... and I got socked with a $25 return fee on my account (which I am trying to get reversed). So I am screwed out of the $50 price, the $15 I spent on shipping and the $25 bounce fee. The funny thing is, if the guy had plead poverty and been honest , I would have sent the parts for free. No need to be a crook. I called the guy after the check bounced and the guy said something like: "I had money to cover the check, I'll call the bank and get back to you." That was about 3 weeks ago. I am not even mad about it, just surprised that there are people with such a complete lack of integrity they will sell their good name for $50. I guess he never read Shakespeare who said: "He who steals my money steals trash, but he who takes my good name takes that which enriches him not but leaves me a poor man indeed." There really are people who go through life not caring that the world knows they are thieving low life scumbags.

I was stunned by the price of hamburder (raw) and burgers at fast food places. I went to get a Big Mac on a whim and it was over $4. The tiny cheapo mini-burgers that used to be on the "dollar menu" are now on the "value menu" and cost about $1.89.

Depends on what you mean by "stock". SW made some bad pins that were too short and those may give worse ignition. SW has made proper length pins in both steel and titanium, so the Ti pins may give a shade better ignition because of reduced mass which gives higher velocity and a bit more strike energy. In general, I doubt very much you will see any significant difference between aftermarket extended pins and GOOD (proper length) stock pins. I didn't and I specifically tested for it. But I was using factory ammo, not reloads and stock hammer and trigger. I guess what I am really looking for is something I've overlooked that might be soaking up a little of the strike energy, enabling me to drop some mainspring weight. Everybody looks for that. The only items I recall regularly doing that are: 1) Primers not fully seated on reloads. 2) End shake on the cylinder which allows it to move when struck. As for: I don't know it that increases ignition or not. It didn't for me, but they were C+S extended pins. The ends were conical as opposed to round on the stock pins.

Depends on what you mean by "stock". SW made some bad pins that were too short and those may give worse ignition. SW has made proper length pins in both steel and titanium, so the Ti pins may give a shade better ignition because of reduced mass which gives higher velocity and a bit more strike energy. In general, I doubt very much you will see any significant difference between aftermarket extended pins and GOOD (proper length) stock pins. I didn't and I specifically tested for it. But I was using factory ammo, not reloads and stock hammer and trigger. Thanks, this is useful feedback. So by those results, even with a good (0.495") length factory pin, I would not be improving from the Apex competition pin. That seems to be disputed depending on who you ask. When the extended FP's first came out a long time ago, I tested them on the three model 66 guns I used for comp shooting. I used factory ammo and stock parts with actions lightened by polishing and reduced springs. I reduced mainspring force until I got DA misfires and accurately measured the DA pull weight using both stock pins and extended. There was no difference in performance, but I left the long pins in anyway since I had paid good money for them. Two of them broke rather soon and I chucked the third one and that was the end of extended firing pins for me. There have been posters who claim the extended pins "improved" ignition and maybe they did (in their case). AFAIK, if the pin is correct length (which I think is .495) and there are no underlying issues like excessive end shake, excessive cylinder breech gap, etc, the stock pins work just as well.

I paid very careful attention to the info in the thread. Read this from Kimberacp: So, you won't be taking a 9mm slide and running 40 because it won't fit. You will need to radius out the breech face so it can accept the larger case. And for the reasons I said, once that is done the 9mm case will be free to move significantly and the extractor will lose tension. The design of the 1911 is that extractor tension is tested by sliding a case up into the hook and measuring how much force it takes to pull it out. The case is held by the extractor claw on one side and the breech face lip on the other. IMHO, if the face is cut large enough to accept a 40 case, I don't see how this type of extractor can possibly hold proper tension and function correctly for 9mm and work 100% working with the larger cut out. It may extract some, I just don't think it will be reliable. The first thing I would do when you get your 9mm is check the fit of a 40 case. If, as said above, it does not fit, I would not screw with it. If you size it out to work with 40, I suspect you may end up with a gun that shoots 40 but is not reliable cycling 9mm, and the change will be permanent. I would consult a gunsmith before cutting on the slide. Just my opinion.

I don't think I am missing any of the salient facts. You may be starting with a 9mm slide, but if you radius out the breech face on it enough to allow a .40 case to fit in, you will have an air gap of ballpark .020" around the 9mm case rim when it is in battery and centered on the breech face in front of the firing pin. As the slide pulls out of battery, the case will twist and lose extractor tension because a 1911 extractor does not have enough range to move far enough to keep the rim clamped against the breech face edge. I suspect you will see what I mean if you test it. My point is that 1911's do not work for that and the main reason is the extractor. Other guns with pivoting extractors which are spring loaded can, I have a bunch of them which run well for 9 and 40 (Beretta, SIG, Browning, Glock). I just don't see how it is possible to have a single slide work with both 9/40 on a 1911 with the stock extractor setup. Would like to know how to do it if it is possible. But I'm not doing anything to the breech face. This is how it comes from Kimber and already works. I see your point if I'm taking any other manufactures slide and machining out the breech face, but I'm not, this is just how Kimber builds them. This thread discusses the larger breech face in the Kimber's and how it's not an issue. They do say that it can contribute to wearing out extractors faster, but that the guns run fine. http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=286528 As soon as I get a 40 barrel I'll be sure to post on how it works out. I had not read that thread, but the poster in that thread said exactly what I did: I have fitted a few extractors in my time, and I really don't think a .40 dimension slide can have the extractor set up properly for 9mm. It may "work" but I doubt it will have proper tension and I doubt it will extract 100%. I still don't know why Kimber would mill their slides off dimension. FYI, that thread is 5 years old so the info on what Kimber is making may not be current?

Still not sure how the extractor could work on a 9mm case. As the case pulls out of battery, the rim will lose tension since the extractor can't pivot far enough to keep it pinned to the lip of the breech face. In effect, it would be like installing a 9mm "conversion" barrel into a 40 slide. Such conversions work on guns like Glocks, SIGs, Beretta, HI Powers and others with pivoting extractors which can rotate far enough to "follow" the case and keep tension on it. A 1911 extractor can't move far enough to do it. A springfield XD which is also a "fixed" extractor design has the same issue. I suspect this "conversion" is not going to extract 100%. Would be interested to hear how it goes. I think what you're missing here is that I'm starting with a 9mm, not going from 40 to 9mm. The gun is already tuned to run 9mm, I'm just hoping that with a barrel swap it will run 40. Here are the threads I read that seem to indicate this should work: http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=421157 Post # 5: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=123916 I won't know for sure until I get it, at this point I'm just relying on the accuracy of the internet! I see the confusion. The Enos thread says: An "upper" is a complete slide and barrel assembly. You definitely can swap those on a single receiver, I have a Trojan that I have both a 9mm and 40 upper for and it works well. Just can't swap barrel only. As for the comment about Kimber milling their 9mm slides to .40 dimensions? I never heard it and don't see how it could work (for reasons detailed earlier), but I am willing to learn if there is a way.

Still not sure how the extractor could work on a 9mm case. As the case pulls out of battery, the rim will lose tension since the extractor can't pivot far enough to keep it pinned to the lip of the breech face. In effect, it would be like installing a 9mm "conversion" barrel into a 40 slide. Such conversions work on guns like Glocks, SIGs, Beretta, HI Powers and others with pivoting extractors which can rotate far enough to "follow" the case and keep tension on it. A 1911 extractor can't move far enough to do it. A springfield XD which is also a "fixed" extractor design has the same issue. I suspect this "conversion" is not going to extract 100%. Would be interested to hear how it goes. I think what you're missing here is that I'm starting with a 9mm, not going from 40 to 9mm. The gun is already tuned to run 9mm, I'm just hoping that with a barrel swap it will run 40. Here are the threads I read that seem to indicate this should work: http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=421157 Post # 5: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=123916 I won't know for sure until I get it, at this point I'm just relying on the accuracy of the internet! I don't think I am missing any of the salient facts. You may be starting with a 9mm slide, but if you radius out the breech face on it enough to allow a .40 case to fit in, you will have an air gap of ballpark .020" around the 9mm case rim when it is in battery and centered on the breech face in front of the firing pin. As the slide pulls out of battery, the case will twist and lose extractor tension because a 1911 extractor does not have enough range to move far enough to keep the rim clamped against the breech face edge. I suspect you will see what I mean if you test it. My point is that 1911's do not work for that and the main reason is the extractor. Other guns with pivoting extractors which are spring loaded can, I have a bunch of them which run well for 9 and 40 (Beretta, SIG, Browning, Glock). I just don't see how it is possible to have a single slide work with both 9/40 on a 1911 with the stock extractor setup. Even if you had a separate extractor for 9mm, you would need to bend the heck out of it to get tension and then when the slide went into battery (and it centered the round in the opening) it would have to deflect the extractor pretty far. 1911 extractors are hard to push, they are not spring loaded they are just a piece of steel. Would like to know how to do it if it is possible. Let us know if it works.

Depends on what you mean by "stock". SW made some bad pins that were too short and those may give worse ignition. SW has made proper length pins in both steel and titanium, so the Ti pins may give a shade better ignition because of reduced mass which gives higher velocity and a bit more strike energy. In general, I doubt very much you will see any significant difference between aftermarket extended pins and GOOD (proper length) stock pins. I didn't and I specifically tested for it. But I was using factory ammo, not reloads and stock hammer and trigger.

Still not sure how the extractor could work on a 9mm case. As the case pulls out of battery, the rim will lose tension since the extractor can't pivot far enough to keep it pinned to the lip of the breech face. In effect, it would be like installing a 9mm "conversion" barrel into a 40 slide. Such conversions work on guns like Glocks, SIGs, Beretta, HI Powers and others with pivoting extractors which can rotate far enough to "follow" the case and keep tension on it. A 1911 extractor can't move far enough to do it. A springfield XD which is also a "fixed" extractor design has the same issue. I suspect this "conversion" is not going to extract 100%. Would be interested to hear how it goes.

I'm confused: is this a 9mm slide or .40? They are not the same and as far as I know, .40 brass will not fit the cutout on a 9mm slide. And BTW, 9mm brass won't work on a .40 slide because it would be too loose and not extract properly. I have a Trojan 1911 that has both a 9mm slide/barrel and a .40 slide/barrel, but they are separate assemblies. This is a Kimber 9mm. I was under the belief that Kimber cuts their breech faces to 40, even in their 9mm's. I should only need to replace the barrel, bushing, and magazines to be able to switch over to 40. At least that's what I've read on several forums. I might need to replace the ejector and extractor, but I'll have to shoot the gun to know for sure. Interesting, I never heard that. I don't understand how that could be possible in a 1911, since the extractor does not have enough range of motion to keep tension on a 9mm case rim if the breech face is radiused out far enough to accept a 40 case. Is Kimber using a pivoting extractor?

I'm confused: is this a 9mm slide or .40? They are not the same and as far as I know, .40 brass will not fit the cutout on a 9mm slide. And BTW, 9mm brass won't work on a .40 slide because it would be too loose and not extract properly. I have a Trojan 1911 that has both a 9mm slide/barrel and a .40 slide/barrel, but they are separate assemblies.