CocoBolo

Welcome back, LOL too Old. I remember my first steel match 15 years ago when an 86 year old lady beat me like a house cat with a Bersa Thunder. I took 4 years off, came back recently and it is like starting over, which isn't that easy even though I'm still young at 72. I was at Sorry Gulch aka Sierra Vista back in the 1960's when it had one stop light and you had to hitch hike 6 miles out of town to get a real beer. I enjoy steel challenge, struggling in USPSA, but you don't need a 10 mm for that, I'd suggest getting an optics ready 9 mm pistol and hang that Holosun on it, shoot carry optics, USPSA, Steel Challenge and even IDPA. PCC is big these days, I bought one and plan to shoot my first match with it tomorrow, i think it will run, if I am the match anchor man so what I'll have fun.

Weidners has ArmsCor bullets, I got 6000 the other day, took about 4 days order to delivery. https://www.wideners.com/catalogsearch/result?q=bullets I just checked they have 9 mm FMJ 124gr and 115gr in stock, also Hornady if you don't mind paying more.

I have had a few light strikes with one of my open guns, I just reached up and cocked the hammer again. That said my new Dawson Hyper firing pin came in the mail today. I thought it already had one, all my other guns do, and they ran the same ammo 100%.

If you have shot for years, you should just run what you got. I'm thinking about getting my Shadow milled for a dot, and I am just going to run the stock mags, they hold 17 same as my 40 STI Limited gun, there could be a stage where 22 rounds would make a difference but most not, there is always a place to reload, like on any move. I'm holding off on buying any new mags till we see what Pandjeo Joe does. If all divisions go to 10 rd sure would be a waste of money.

My apologies when I said to use Brake cleaner, I grew up when there were no car seats, no seat belts or air bags, and we rode bikes with no helmets. Guys be sure to wear eye protection when spraying brake cleaner, and by all means don't do it over an open fire or while smoking a joint. They have a non chlorine version and it works just as well but it will still burn your eyes. And if you are doing a brake job use jack stands.

When I did my shadow, I had springs flying everywhere, it takes 3 or 4 hands to work on it. With the lightest main spring on a cold December morning I had the trigger malfunction in the strangest way. I would pull the trigger and then it seemed like a second or two would pass before the gun went off, I was already reaching to rack the slide then bang. I think it was a 8 or 9#. I always only loaded with Federal primers. Then OBAMA got elected and I was running rifle primers so the spring had to go, I think to the 10 or 11#. Point is test with the hardest primer and make sure it goes bang. When I installed the ultimate trigger kit from CCW those Cajuns (minus the actual trigger) I didn't use their disconnect because it made the double action pull harder, after I shot it a while I put the short throw disconnector in and my time to first shot dropped and I still had good hits. The shorter pull on the trigger made it quicker.

The mec-gar mags are the best. You will need to do the modification to allow the mags to drop free. My mags without out base pad don't really drop well, the plain plastic ones work good.

Kahr PM9 Why: Light, Small, Accurate, but still easy to shoot, reliable, decent trigger. Where - OWB slightly forward Night Sights - Bad guys love the cover of darkness. Alternate Sig P226 9MM Why - 20 rd capacity, Reliable 100%, Accurate, Good trigger, Heavy for rapid fire, and clubbing Where - OWB Night Sights This was the first gun I shot USPSA/IDPA and Steel Challenge with. Bug Ruger LCR 38 SPL Why - Better than a fly swatter, super light, hard to shoot, accurate to 5 feet. Where - Inside Boot or on Ankle, or pocket No need for night sights at arms length.

My go to cleaner is Brake Parts Cleaner. After using you need to lube the parts as all lube will be removed along with dirt and debris. Works well with the included tube on the nozzle.

I could be the minority, but after loading pistol for decades I started the .223 journey, loading for my 3-Gun rifle. Everything I learned was from prior failures, meaning they did not feed reliably. What I learned. Preparing the cases is a lot of work. I de-prime as a separate operation, with an old Lee Universal decapper. It just turns out easier overall to do that. I've tried several sizing dies the RCBS small base was the best I tried. The sizing is best done on a good quality single stage press. I broke a Lee Press. I use liquid lube on the outside and a paste for the inside to lube cases. After sizing clean again (I use fine walnut). Swag the primer pockets all of the them it is faster than looking at each one. I use a drill press mounted trimmer WTF trimmer. Easiest part of the whole process. Drop check is the next step and be ISO 9002 about it. Next up the chamfer/de-burr with a hand tool. Cleaning again is optional but I usually do. Loading - I use my Hornady L&L because it is easier to hand feed cases, I have also done it on the Dillon 650. Just Powder, and Seat/Crimp which takes a while to get adjusted perfectly. Again it is drop check time- and again zero tolerance. Take a few an see if they feed thru you gun. Seriously you might just find you can't get it out easily. Getting just the right load on rifle is a challenge but it is trial and error. Pick a load and load 10 rounds, then change it up 2-3 tenths of a grain load 10, and make several batches. Go to the range and shoot off a bench rest and see which one groups the best at 100 yards. When loading 69gr Sierra Match Kings my gun groups best with 24.1gr of TAC. When loading 55gr Hornady 55gr HPBT 27.1gr of BLC(2). And for those short range level 0 matches with a bullet of non choice and a powder you found - 50gr Zmax with 24gr of Benchmark, makes good hits at 25 yards no problem. At $1.00 each, they may still be a bargain, if your time is valuable, being retired it gives me something to do, when I don't feel like practicing guitar.

Grab a big stick and go for it, shooting minor the comp does little anyway, and be sure to make as many A hits as possible, C's hurt more in minor.

Talk about Division, it is Red & Blue. Ok at one time I had 2 Dillon 650's and a Hornady Lock and Load, this is a hint to where I am going. I sold one of the Dillions and kept the Hornady. The Hornady will have more interruptions than the Dillon once everything is set. In rounds per hour you will always win on the Dillon. When it comes to setting up for small runs different caliber, different bullet, different powder the Hornady wins hands down. I load 9 different calibers on the L&L and only load 3 on the Dillon, I've had both presses for over a decade and done many thousands on both. The only thing I load exclusively on the Dillon is 9 major, because there is always powder spillage on both but on the L&L it gets in the primer punch and you have to stop and clean it. Putting 10gr in a 9 mm case well some is going to spill. The Dillon sets primers easier than the L&L, but if brute force isn't working you are just not using enough. I don't trust scales either, I have two a Dillon Beam and an RCBS 750 electronic, I cross check them. Once everything is set I only weigh if I think I see that it is off, but mostly just when I reload the primer tube. I can load on the L&L for years and the powder never changes, the Dillon another story after a few hundred rounds the charge will increase a .1 gn, then go for thousands of rounds and be off again. Both presses require you to get in touch with the feel and the rhythm with the Dillon more sensitive to the rhythm a little too fast and you have more problems and with out the developed feel you will break something on both. The Dillon case feeder has less brass rain and fewer upside down cases, the trick with the Dillon is to not let it get low on cases. There is room on my bench for both and a single stage press in the middle. Yes it is for sizing 223 cases, and for the GRX for 40. I run 9 mm and 38 super thru the case pro. One shot saves your arm, I just spray the cases a little in the case feeder, when it turns they get lubed. I pick up a hand full of bullets at a time and find I'm just as fast as using the bullet feeder.

If everyone does their part it makes the match a lot more enjoyable. That said at the young age of 72, my most important equipment is my chair. Wait for it. That said I make sure that when I am not on deck not reloading my mags, I get up outa that chair and I go to the most distant target or steel tape or reset. The reason for this is to get more exercise and that folks will help me shoot more matches because I will live longer, and each time it will be easier because the more you do the more you can do. Now back in the day, I worked to set up the match, then was RO a lot and if not scoring and carried tape with me while doing that and hit anything the crew didn't get. When I noticed someone that wasn't helping I might stroll over and hand them some tape, If they asked what that was for, that's when it started. You know the talk about how we are a team. I RO'ed some majors and yes I handed tape to some super squad members. A couple of add on items. 1. Don't give unsolicited advice, you can of course ask if some one is open to some constructive tips, or offer to mentor a new shooter if they are so inclined. 2. Save the smack talk for lunch after the match. 3. Don't be that guy that tries to change the RO's call, let the RO and the Scorer do their job. The guy that whips out the overlay, if they need one they will ask for it, it is ok if the shooter asks.

I started out as a U, doesn't everyone? My rise to B took about 3 years. During that time I dry fired, wet fired, and shot 4 to 8 local matches a month. I could knock out a classifier no problem but it was the match performance, that didn't fit my class. I would say I was doing the same thing I see a lot of people doing, trying to shoot faster, and my transitions and splits were good and the draw etc. But that's when I started to look at the real things I should be working on. USPSA unlike steel challenge involves movement and positioning. Once I started working on the golden rule, "It is not how fast you get there, it is how fast you get there ready to shoot". In short the first shot when you move into the next position (box) should go off at the instant your trailing foot enters the box. (No squat head tucking or hunting for the target) You had gun up eyes on target in the last step. Then there is positioning that spot you landed in does it give you the most possible targets in the array? An inch in either direction makes a huge difference in your time. Then there is the smooth factor, a charging Rhino is actually slower than a Gazelle. 12 years later after a 4 year break I'm starting over, and that is what it feels like. My wet practice is Steel Challenge, instant feed back, and a great way to build accuracy at speed. When I first started I practiced on plate racks, wish I had one now. I dry fire, draw to first shot, and do reloads about 30 minutes during the week prior to any match. Any training plan should include all of the skills required from platform to movement and positioning. And there is nothing worse than a slow miss.

Send me all the long ones, and the short ones, I'll dispose of them properly into a local range berm. Ok I've had my fun. There could be some slight variations in the bullet you are using as well. The Hornady seating Die have an insert that one end is for Round Nose and the other for pointed bullets using the right side helps cut the variance. I loaded 9 mm with no lube for years then I got old so I started the one shot, I just pour a half coffee can full of brass in the case feed then spray a little one shot, the first few come in dry but as it turns they get lubed. 1 small can of OneShot last about 10,000 rounds. I put match reloads in those bullet cases, because you miss primer issues in drop check, with them primer up I just run my finger down the rows if one feels short or tall I pull it, throw it in the practice bucket. I don't consider a small variance a practical issue.

I highly recommend Benny Hill at Triangle Shooting Sports. You might not have to wait till you are too old to shoot it. Benny guns run, and they are void of expensive fashion accessories, all business and no bulls#!t.

Well I am shocked at all the bad mouthing of STI Guns. Granted mine are all older than some of you. My first slide to crack was at about 90,000 rounds, and I was on the 2nd barrel. I had another slide crack on another one but that was at around 60,000 rounds. My oldest started out as a Briley custom, I replaced the STI Slide with a Caspian, so I'm sure the slide will outlast me, since the frame has 100K plus rounds on it I made it my steel gun and only shoot 150pf ammo in it. I replaced the other slide with a Brazos slide was cheaper than having a blank butchered up to make it lighter, it is also a Caspian. In all my shooting I have had one comp crack, it was the cone on a cone comp, and the Legendary Benny Hill said it was caused by the gun builders poor fitting of the cone. He installed the new Dawson Todd Jarrett comp and yepper the gun feels so good now, and ties the holes together at 25 yards. What I learned from all of this is not to TriTop the slide all the way and leave some meat on it in critical areas and no square edges. Maybe all those fancy fashion accessory cuts on the DVC are the issue.

It is worse than the OBAMA years, that was a long dry spell 8 years of get it when you can. Small pistol, I shot magnum rifle, match rifle, all brands, what ever I could find except Tula.

One of the omitted things in dot technical discussion I discovered after a 4 year break in shooting. I took old faithful to a match, at the safe table I pulled her out and couldn't find the dot without the dance. I then changed up the method I focused on a rock on the berm, drew the gun, BAM got dot every time I focused on some object. When I focused on the glass to find the dot it was a no go, but focusing on an object dot every time. The moral here is focus on the target bring the gun into the line of sight. In weak had we tend to look at you guessed it the gun and not the target. As a Guitar player the concept of muscle memory is something I get, yes my fingers know where to go and they know the chord transitions of each song, because I practiced it over and over and over again, and shooting a pistol finding the dot is all muscle memory. Put some pasters on the walls and focus on that little square and do the weak hand till you gain consistency. Do it right with the proper stance, how you practice is how you shoot. If I practiced shooting even half as much as Guitar I'd be a grand master.

I have 8 mag pouches on my single stack rig. I use the reloading rule "If your feet move reload". Uncle Mike's, I got them on sale. The Barney Mag goes in the last one toward the back. Pony up with 9. Way more important than the mag holder is the mag, lots of different ones, Tripp is the best of the bunch with the aluminum base pads. You can drop a 2011 mag in the dirt a couple times and it still works, single stack mags have to be cleaned every time. My gun hates round nose, loves Semi Wad Cutters, 200 gr over 4.3 gr of Clays.

Looks like my stimulus is going to be in 9 mm, P320 max. Thanks for the input, doing my part to stimulate the economy.

According to my search of the rules it is a fat boy and won't pass the weigh in. Maybe it could make it with out the mag well that needs to be removed to be legal. I'm considering giving up Open and moving to carry optics, at $1599 it seems to be pretty darn cheap with the 4 21rd mags. But no sense buying it if I can't shoot it in a match. Does anyone know if it is legal or is in the process of being approved?

If it was at 50 yards in a pistol rest, its good, if not it is what we call a Blind Hog Shot in Texas.

The classic question is did the hammer cock? If it did it could be the ejector, and the slide just shoved it back in. I have one gun that does that if I try to run minor, but then I just rack it out, the front of the AFTEC is slanted in combination with a 9#or10# recoil it recaptures the rim. (my Minor is about 145-150pf) The ultimate solution is the AFTEC extractor. If you want a real stuck spent round, load up one of those looks like brass but steel cases, the AFTEC tore the rim but the non-brass had to be driven out with a hammer and a rod. I check all 9 mm cases with a magnet. I went to AFTEC on 3 open guns, all have run for many years, when the slides cracked I just moved the AFTEC to the new slides, yes 2 of the 3 cracked from many 1,000s of rounds. About every 1000 rounds you have to break it down and clean the extractor tunnel. You won't miss all that time at the safe table trying to bend the extractor to get the right tension. I started shooting 9 major in 2008, having moved from 38SC, which I reloaded those cases till they split. It wasn't long till I learned that 9 major puts a lot of stress on cases and if you want reliable performance load once and let it go. I pickup brass at steel matches, they shoot minor there, with lots of noobs there is plenty of brass. If it doesn't fall into and out of the drop check it goes in the practice bucket, after I run it thru the case pro if it fails a second time. That round where just a little of the rim sticks up, that is the one that will get you.

I haven't owned the CZ open gun, but love my Shadow for production. I started shooting open with Tanfo, went to STI and have missed that Tanfo ever since. What I liked about it was the weight and the solid feel but it didn't fit my hand. In my fleet of STI Open Guns I have Bull and Cone guns, when it comes to steel challenge I prefer the lighter weight of the Cone Comp gun and in USPSA I prefer the heavier Bull Barrel gun. This is all subjective if I really wanted to have a lighter gun I would shoot my Glock Open Gun, which I only shoot when I am suffering from over confidence, aka the spray syndrome, it slows me down and makes me focus on hits. In an Action Shooting major match, aka they called it the nationals, I won the stage shooting STI and 2nd was a Glock, I never saw a Glock Open gun that ran, but his did. In the man on man shootout I lost to the Glock. The secret to a Glock Open gun running is 140-150pf load, My personal load for steel is 5.8gr of AutoComp with a 124JHP. It will shoot major but its a wild ride. My suggestion is put a dot on your gun and run it and see how the dot works for you. Shooting minor the comp is kind of like tits on a bore hog, more of a fashion accessory than functional. It isn't like the good old days, when it was 9 mm up, the low times are RFPO and RFRO the invasion of the rim fire, I have mine and it has won before, only because it 100% reliable. I'm working on a Mossberg Plinkster rifle, just to drive all the Volquartsen rifle guys nuts. A $200 gun vs a $2000 gun should be fun.