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BangSwitch

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About BangSwitch

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    Sin City
  • Real Name
    Terry Riedel

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  1. There has been lots of great suggestions in this post for solid single-stack 9mm guns. I have 17,000 rounds through my 9mm Springfield Operator and I can backup McFoto's recommendation on Dawson magazines. I've tried Springfield magazines, Wilson Combat, Chip McCormick and Dawson. In my experiences, I've had the most reliable operation using Dawson magazines. ....so whatever 9mm pistol you land on, Dawson magazines will help set you up for success.
  2. I got an Avid pistol tool as a stocking-stuffer in December and I am thoroughly impressed with it. It has a 1911 bushing wrench, punch, and all of the "tool tips" you could want to detail strip your 2011. The best part is that they retail for about $40 Here's a link https://www.realavid.com/shop/the-pistol-tool
  3. That's actually one of the first things that I noticed about my STI. I found that a couple of my mags had scratches from impacting the ejector. I took my gun to a local gunsmith who competes in USPSA and services many of the top USPSA shooters in the area. He removed my ejector and reinstalled/repinned it correctly. Now it takes real caveman moves to get a mag to contact the ejector.
  4. I am not shooting IDPA, I'm shooting USPSA Limited minor (9mm naturally) ....I know slide lock reloads are a "bad thing" in USPSA. Coming from a 9mm single stack gun, I'm used to having a functioning slide lock. My magazines are 140mm STI "gen 2" stainless w/ Grams FKS-11 spring/follower kits. BTW - I've got one of those mag compression pliers/tools on order. I already have a micrometer. I'm planning to donate one mag tube to science and see if I can tweak one into submission.
  5. ...and another picture illustrating the way that the follower is aligned in the mag tube. It's easy to see how much higher left side is sitting and why it prematurely hits the slide stop.
  6. I'm still very new to the STI platform (~2 months in now) and learning more every day. I understand that lots of 2011 shooters have problems with the slide locking back with a single round left in the magazine. I've discovered this phenomena in my own gun and just about every magazine. I recently ditched the factory springs/followers in all five of my "gen 2" STI magazines. I use Grams springs/followers now. When I ask other shooters about this, they just tell me to dremmel the corner off my followers and learn to count shots. ....that is a solution, but I sure would like to figure out a way to get the slide lock function to operate "most" of the time. From what I've read, 100% operation is damn near impossible. So in the interests of understanding the problem I popped my slide off and loaded some snap caps and watched what was happening. It seems that the follower is "canted" in the mag tube and doesn't sit level. The left side of the follower rides higher than the right and is hitting the slide stop first. It's pretty easy to see when I pull the spring/follower out too. If the follower rode up the feed lips dead level, the slide stop wouldn't prematurely engage. I thought about removing 1mm of material from the corner of the follower that hits the slide stop. Bending the crap out of the spring looks like an option too, but common sense told me to stop. What steps do you guys recommend if I want to try and retain the slide lock function?
  7. ...great analogy; especially since I used to own a race car! If the springs were just a little different in length, I guess I wouldn't be concerned. I was surprised to see what looks like maybe 15-20% difference. I need to fabricate (redneck engineer) a spring testing rig to work with my trigger pull gauge. It would be nice to know for CERTAIN what weight a spring actually is when I go to put it in service.
  8. I am trying to get a soft shooting setup from STI DVC 3-Gun with 147gr factory ammo and a 9# recoil spring. I had a 9# Wilson Combat spring (shown on the left) in my inventory. I picked up two additional ISMI chrome silicon springs (link) for my spares box. I was surprised when I put the two springs side-by-side. The ISMI spring (pictured on the right) is significantly shorter than the Wilson Combat. Why would two springs of the same weight be so different lengthwise? What accounts for the difference and should I be concerned?
  9. Thanks for the replies. I just used my last 9# springs in another gun - need to buy more. I don't load my own ammunition. I have been using Freedom Munitions 147gr round nose. So far, I'm pretty happy with it. A softer spring might work well with that load.
  10. I could, but quite frankly I'm just not comfortable disabling it. I had my single stack gun fall out of a bladetech holster when one of the screws backed out. Felt like a total retard. During my first week with my shiny new 2011 and brand new race holster, I dumped my gun on the garage floor because I forgot to flip the retention switch. So lets just say, I'm probably not the best candidate for disabling a grip safety. I need to practice more and suck less until my grip is consistent
  11. This is a problem I am struggling with as I move from a single-stack gun to my first 2011. Sometimes I get a less-than perfect draw/grip and don't depress the grip safety fully.
  12. I want to make sure that I have the right weight springs for my 9mm DVC 3-Gun in my spares inventory. Does any happen to know what recoil spring this gun left the factory with? I want to say that it shipped with a 10# recoil spring, but I'm not sure.
  13. The spring in that kit is one that I was looking at. I looked the part up on the C/S website. It's designed for use with trigger pull weights under 4.5# Other than that, I don't know much about it. Looking forward to hearing your feedback once all the work is complete.
  14. Which flat trigger are you planning to install? are you doing anything special with the sear spring? I’ve seen things like titanium sear springs and springs for trigger pulls < 4.5lbs - but have no idea of the reputation of those parts.
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