EkuJustice

light strikes or no strikes? were all the problems from the same /new lot of ammo?

The sights should be removed before chrome. If your getting it cerakoted, it will always wear some on the sharp edges as that is the nature of the spray on finishes

What spring and load are you running

In

GI setup

Not needed.

I agree all safeties do not have to be functional in a singlestack, limited, or open gun. If that is the case then how are pinned grip safeties legal? In IDPA all the safeties must work, In USPSA it is not a requirement. The trigger safety is the primary safety on a Glock and is the one that counts. I Know Troy McManus has posted on here about the Glock trigger safety being the external one and the one that counts. Not at any match I RO/RM. See 5.1.6: Servicable and safe is subjective. So do you also not allow 1911's with pinned grip safeties. Its no worse than a Glock with a FP safety removed. Hell most 1911's we compete with don't have a FP safety. Pat

It really is a personal preference thing. I typically for sights in the .110-.115 range for my front sights and a .115-.120 rear as I don't liike a ton of light on the sides. For me, If front is visible in the rear even if touching either side its good enough for a good hit. I shoot better and faster with this combo. Others shoot better with a thin front and huge rear. Try some combos out at the club and see what looks best

23 are common for 140 length and 24 rounds are possible in 9mm

Seen the FP safety removed on glocks to get a lighter trigger pull and its allowed outside of Production. I have also seen glocks where the trigger safety dosent work all the time either from removing pretravel without adjusting the safetly or simply for poor choice in springs ie heavy trigger spring, light striker spring.

The tubes are the same. The 9mm mags are a 38super mag with a spacer in it. What is different is the grams follower is not the same for the 9mm with a spacer and the 38/38sc without one. If your looking for mags now for fear of a ban, buy the tubes and then wait till you decide on the caliber to get the guts

Go with a DPMS lower as your mag options are better than with a rock river. Throw in a good trigger, barrel, bolt and comp. To save money go with a plan freefloat tube over the expensive tubes. For a stock, a simple A2 stock over a Magpul 250 buck stock.

Typically when you push stuff to the max spring life is short. If you get one of those 30 round9mm or 22 round 40 mags use it only when it makes a difference and use your 28 and 20 rounders as your go to mags

The non screwed together walls are great but the zip tie and go only tool needed is a knife which most have anyway

any idea on the date/cost? I would be interested

86 that would be a betamag stage lol

Try both unlocked and locked. For a stand and draw stage easier to just go unlocked

It greatly depends on your match. Usually 30-32 max on a rifle stage

Use the light speed 2 here which is kind of between the 2

They are no longer in business so it would be used purchase only

Ya choke for the tightest shot. With the shotgun a couple less inches of spread wont Hurt you not having enough choke to get a target down will. I generally choke tight as I know how to hit with the shotgun and having that tighter pattern can allow shots to possibly be taken in a more advantageous position

better off selling the 17and getting the 34

believe glock worx does one like that

If your wanting a good magwell, use a stock glock frame

The security and the ease of the lock is one reason I got it. I like that you can put the gun in, flip the lock down with the hand on the gun to double check to make sure its definately in there. It was also nice to have on the "battering ram" stage at ohio last year where you had to use the ram with both hands to open door, just easier to lock and go and not worry about dislodging it.