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OskiATX

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    Jason

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  1. I've seen a step off activator (stomp box that activates when you step off) at Rio Salado. Been thinking of using something like that at my club. Does anybody know where to find them for sale or plans to build them? Thanks
  2. Why would you need spacers? Are you shooting 38 Super in STI mags? If so, then maybe but not necessarily. Try them without spacers first and then if you have feeding problems, then go to a spacer. Also, use the steel Hardy spacers for the best results and don't glue them in - per Mr. Hardy. Remember, if you put in spacers, you have to change the follower also. I thought the normal 9mm was too short in most mag tubes so they needed a spacer at the rear of the mag tube (and matching follower). I'll definitely test it before going to spacers. I'm guessing a comp designed for 9mm minor would work, so I might look into one of those as well if I don't hear back from the shop that built this open gun. Thanks for the feedback, everybody! Let me know if there are any other considerations I need to think about.
  3. I tried a few different searches but only got a little data out of it. Since I'm not currently set up for reloading and I have a bunch of factory 9mm I'm wondering what would go into converting a 9mm major gun into minor? I saw somewhere that 9mm minor might not produce enough gas to make the comp work properly. I'm guessing that just means it won't absorb as much muzzle rise, is there any other issue here? Other than that would all I need to worry about is possibly a lighter recoil spring and maybe spacers for the mag tube? Thanks for any input.
  4. Thanks for the tips. Dry fire practiced a bunch and running w/ it locked and drawing got to be pretty easy after a few tries. Blaster, sure enough I almost gave myself a wedgie when I missed the lock. Hah
  5. Prior to posting this I was practicing flipping the lock during draw and thought that'd be the right solution for seated starts. Thanks for the feedback!
  6. Tried searching for this but didn't see anything (apologies if I missed it)... I've only used kydex type holsters in the past for SS or production class shooting so this question is due to my lack of exposure to race style holsters. It seems that insertion (and more importantly draw) on the holster takes barely any effort. I can see why this is HIGHLY desirable for a quick start but it would concern me for any starts where I need to sit on a chair or something and it might bump the muzzle. While unlocked it definitely prevents my SVI from rocking forward or backwards and there's a slight side-to-side wiggle but nothing that'd worry me but the straight up draw is super easy and I'm sure I'd never make it through a somersault w/ the gun retained. Is my experience correct? I'm hoping that's expected and I should just have the holster unlocked right after I make ready and leave it locked when I'm taping/etc.or possibly lock it when I start in a seated position if I'm worried. With the holster locked is a different story, that puppy is rock solid.
  7. Thanks Gorilla, that adds a bit more insight for gaming a stage (when I need my hits more vs when I need to burn rubber).
  8. Started getting back into USPSA earlier this year after a few year hiatus and was in minor SS just like you. I'd have to agree with Gorilla's assessment... I beat a lot of people on stages when I got my AA's and got my butt whooped when I hit AC. If I could pick up those AC hits 1/3 second faster I would try to push the speed envelope a bit but I'm just not fast enough quite yet.
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