EkuJustice

I say just shoot get he Mtac/tac 30 and a burris PEPR mount. The Mbus sights really are ment for a backup sight only and really are not that good for what your looking for them for. For the range your shooting that is more than enough glass

How would a steel target, popper in this case hit with a shotgun get scored in a "steel must fall" rule set when the steel is hit but does not fall to to the popper being out of adjustment. We ran into one this last shoot were we just did a reshoot for the shooter as he hit the popper and it was physically unable to fall. The popper was a forward falling popper and the adj screw on the back that limited how far the popper could move back had backed out a ton. When hit, the target fell back and dropped the catch that holds it forward but due to screw backing out leaned way back to the point that there was no way for it physically to fall at all and needed to have the screw reset to allow the target to not fall as far back. Has anyone else seen this where it was truely a range equipment problem ie not a plate the shooter wings and turns 90 degrees due to a poor hit or too little choke and how should it be handled, I understand on the 90 turned plate sorry about your luck hit it harder next time but this is totally out of the control of the shooter and is truely the equipment not working as needed. PS Forward falling poppers are awful

Take what you know about loading for noncomped guns and throw it out the window. Open is a totally different beast due to the comp. With a std gun the fast powder and heavy bullet is your best bet. With an open gun, a light bullet and a slow powder is the way to go preferabley one with a sealed bottom ie CMJ or JHP. The slow powder which needs a larger charge produces more gas which makes the comp work better. The titegroup dosent work the comp near as well and feels more like a limited gun with a dot

the factory 22 rounders are a good value for the money. I would look at 1 Taylor freelance "big stick" extension. You can get by pretty well with 1 big stick and 2 smaller ones(factory 22 rounder or +5 extentions) and then add the other extentions as money comes avaliable. The 40 is already at a capacity disadvantage in open over the 9mm/38supers so a couple extentions help alot as with 15+1 your dry after 2 8 round arrays at slidelock

90 degree mount isnt really a bad thing if you like the Index. When I first got mine I ran the verticle. I have just gone to a 90 degree myself as for me its easier to transition between iron sights and a dot. With the verticle, it was fine if I shot open only. Mine is a modified STI trubore with the slide lightened and 2 holes added as well as a racker cut and aftec. If you have the 90 degree ordered give it a shot, it might index better for you than the verticle

A better cheap ammo if you can find it is the blazer aluminum case. The make the blazer aluminum in a 124 grain load as well

That works if he has a local smith that knows how to tune it. If not, the mount either a 90 degree or an offset upright if he likes the upright is a much cheaper route to go. The mount costs about as much as the shipping to get the gun to a smith. The vertical offset is a vertical mount that is moved over to the left a little to give a little more clearance

A waiver really does nothing. How many shotguns have you Seen blow up especially with factory ammo. We are talking much less pressure that a rifle or a handgun and not near the resistance. Stick a wad in the gun and shoot another round and you buldge the barrel though. I would go nova pump guns as they load easy and are a lot more foolproof than the autos.

That one on the classifieds is a great price. Building a rifle is pretty simple as your not really building it like you would say a 1911 you are assembling it as the parts dont need fitting. Big thing to watch is support the ears when instaling the rear trigger guard pin and buy a 1/4 inch clevis pin to aid in installing the detent for the front takedown pin. Whole gun is easily assembled in an Hr or so. Its like an erector set for adults

Bladetech makes a 6 inch holster. I like the 6 inch stingray over the DOH holster from bladetech. The Safriland 014 is legal but I would go Kydex. If safariland made the ALS in the 6inch gun I would have one but Kydex is the way to go for 3 gun. A raceholster is just not needed as your not winning by a fast draw. Get a holster that secures and protects the gun

Whats considered clearing the stand. Its very possible to nail the target and leave fragments in the grove. Most use the one hole

Extended safety is fine

Extended safety is fine

If you plan on going to major in the future i would go matchmaster over steelmaster

I would just build one or have one built. 18 inch DPMS barrel from midway, any upper or lower that you like the rollmark on PSA has some deals on blemished ones and anderson has some good deals as well, decent trigger, freefloat hand guard(these can be had under 100), Fixed A2 stock and a titan comp. For an optic the pepr mount and either the milett DMS or the burris tac 30 in 1x4 are not budget killers.

Slide mount or use a regular cmore and a 90 degree mount. The 22 slide ride is fine as it is not near as violent as the open guns with 9mm major that have had some problems. If you have a good smith that can install the cmore mount then the 90 degree keeps it low

Looks like the mods I did to mine with the kingshouse grip and mag release tapped, sams bushing and the slideracker. Love the slideracker on mine. I got one here then the next month everyone and their brother showed up with one

The tape works well even for the shotgun. Done that for several people

Take them off and sell them on glocktalk

We used a lock washer and just screwed it on

I left my schedule open as well love being self employed

Using 4.0 of titegroup at 1.145 here with a 124 Montana gold cmj as its the same bullet I use in my open gun. I like the 124 as it is a good compromise between the 115 snap and the slower 147 in both my 1911 and glock. I like the 147 in the glock but not in the 1911 but the 124 feels good in both

Uspsa approximately 3-4 per month in the summer and 2-3 in the winter unless something is canceled. Steel challenge is 1 per month and 3 gun is every other month and I give up a uspsa to do that

I have used both the captured and uncaptured. If the screw ever does come out on a captured one, it dosent do a thing other than turn it into a noncaptured