Stjs45

Well I contacted CZ first thing this morning as most would have. They told me if I used any compound or polished anything my self it would void the warranty. Im sure I can get it to be looser, but just afraid I'm going to run into some of the other issues that came up when searching for the "sticky slide" threads and will not cover. Ill tell you this much. I can take the barrel and spring out, put the slide on the frame, just hold the slide and the frame will not fall off. I can even tap the frame and shake it and it will not budge. I understand it's not my Atlas but C'mon. So I goes I have to wait a month to a month an half to get a simple polish. Im am wanting to shoot a decreased main spring and recoil spring for my barely legal PF loads and with out a good polish that slide will not budge an inch! Thanx for the info.

The ammo I'm using is SAMMI spec factory box ammo. The gun is very hard to even charge the slide back. I took the barrel and the spring off and the slide does not slide easily of the frame. The slide can stick a quarter charged back and can shake it and tap it and it will not move. After some looking into this further for the last two hours, it seems like the channels in the Fram between the trigger and the sear housing has the black finish "Cerakote" (I know its not Cerakote) making it catch in the back area.

As the title states, I just purchased a brand new TSO that will not even load a round out of the magazine. I shot 200 rounds thinking I needed to brad it in but have to push the slide into battery 2/3 shots. I have read to get + 10% magazine brings , apply compound and run the slide, polish the area where it binds at, etc... but the reality you would think a company that just got valued at $220 million would have a half ass decent quality control process. I say this as I own two other CZ one of them being Fire4Effect Shadow 2 that is smooth as butter. Sorry for the rant, just don't know what and how to fix it other than sending the new gun back to CZ for repair. With that being said,. what spring would be recommended to start with to shoot a 125PF 9mm round. I will be adding a SRO and an optics plate to the slide. Thank you and sorry for bitchin.

Bill, Your the Man. 10.5.2 is it. Not that I want to go challenge the local club or go against their practices, but now I can take about it with out speculating. Thanx!

Im not trying to be combative at all BTW. Im sure you have much more knowledge about this than I do. That why I'm asking for the book, to get educated.

That at all is not at all how the clubs around here run their matches. Its called a dry table for a reason. No ammo at the table period. On you, on your belt, loose or in your hand. Dont know what the "book" says, but at least here they run it that way. It makes sense California would be different. Do you know the sub chapter where it identifies you can have ammo at the table?

I use 5 gallon buckets also. Lowes for my blue atlas Major brass. and Homedopot orange for my CO and minor loads.

Watch this video!!!! It explains and charts the difference from all the different primers. Best testing around!!!

Are there ever any group buys with them?

I shoot a lot of PRS locally and make the two day "national" shots. I think you get this toxic crap in every sport and every practice. Its not just PRS. I have shot a couple USPS where the squad leader had complete double standard and even made excuses why he could be at the "safe" table with a belt full of ammo and mess with his gun. The winner of that shoot was for ZERO dollars and people just as sweaty for the notoriety!! Just saying that crap is everywhere. some places more than other but you can't blame the establishment, unless its SNIPERSHIDE!!!

I have a 6.5 PRC barrel and have ran a good amount of rounds through it. At first I wasn't sure I like it until I found the bullet it wanted to shoot. I have beaten it up in Alaska, rain, caribou hunt and sheep and it has held 1/4 minute of angle with any hundred rounds. I honestly don't think there's a difference between carbon or steel once you find the load it wants.

Oh also. do your self a favor and get you one of these electronic air dusters. Will save you money in the long run!!! https://aax-us-east.amazon-adsystem.com/x/c/QvGQPMNTKvPmLmhe0890H1MAAAF3ltUUpgEAAAH2AbbOvzs/https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W4QJ78C?pd_rd_i=B07W4QJ78C&pd_rd_w=rZsAj&pf_rd_p=2e62cf0a-1323-46ac-bbb9-19dc851997c6&pd_rd_wg=v10Jt&pf_rd_r=XDV8KNEFF0ADDDANZ13Q&pd_rd_r=38b6d910-a8fd-4c63-bb9f-bb9f8bd412b7

For sure man. Its a bad machine and once you take the time to set up it runs like a champ. I say also get familiar with it. Don't be afraid to take the shell plate off as you will need to clean it once you have a major powder spillage. The machine is so well engineered and over built that a couple of grain of powder can stop the priming or indexing. They have some very good videos they can send you a drop box link to that goes over every breakdown and cleaning of all parts. Mark 7 has a really good Customer Support, ask to speak to Misty Kapke!!!

+1 for the FX120i. I know it’s way over kill for what he wants or needs. But I never planned on using anything other than a charge master. Thought it was sufficient enough and now use it for my ELR rifle and soon to be FClass rig. Buy once cry once. Besides it will always have value. Promise if he posts it here or accurateshooter it sill be sold with in couple days.

I actually have experience with that machine, the TNT die as well as the Lee under sized die. PICTURE ATTACHED. I highly recommend you use One shot. I have tried the Dillon, super gunky and sticky, I don't want to do chemistry and cut lubes and have to pour into sprayer so or bottles. Spray one shot into a big ziplock bag with the case on there. shake them up and throw into a container to let dry. wait 15 minutes before loading. it will make your machine run smoother and keep it from "jerking" I will also agree with NXFED that the lees run just as good on that high end of a machine. Because it was three different ways to index you don't run into the issue that you do with a 650, 750 and a bit on the 1050 where the non taper die bottom like the Dillon will crush cases from time to time if they are not perfectly aligned with the die. If you look at my picture I run Mighty on my Open Pistol and run Lee for my Steel gun and to be honest with you the cheaper Lee sometimes produce more consistent numbers than the fancy Mighty. After much running and help from Mark 7. I will absolutely suggest you put a top and bottom dwell on what ever speed you set it up at AND!!!! and you set you seating and powder drop at the speed where you are going to load. The powder drop will NEED the dweel to dispense Open Pistol loads fully and re fill. If you change the speed it will most freeing definitely change the powder dispense charge and seating depth. So don't set it up and running it down then up. Set it up by doing a complete stroke at the proper speed. Hope it helps. PM me if you have any questions. IMG_0163.HEIC