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About Stjs45

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    Henry Cuellar

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  1. Btw. WAC was dirty, and felt snappier at 1120 fps ( 5.9 gran) @129pf than the Titegroup (3.9grn) at 1060 and 122pf. Titegroup would come back down to zero, while WAC pulled the dot off the top. both did not run 100%. The slide is not opening up all the way making the round get stuck and not going back into battery. I need to either drop a spring size to a 6# or add .2 grains of powder. As of now I’m going to run Titegroup as well as try to MG bullets, see if that changes anything.
  2. I tried Shooters World Major Pistol as I use it for my Major gun thinking I could get more gas out of it but it was very dirty and would not even load the bullet property there was soo much "corn flakes" in the chamber. It was ridiculously slow. got like 400fps out of 3.5 gn and 650 out of 3.8. I figured a slow powder was not burning right with such small load. I shoot coated bullets because I wanted something different than my major gun. I didn't want to ever mix them and shoot major in minor or vise versa. I have WAC and could definitely try it. What grains would you recommend? Would you still change to 7# spring to a 6# to get a lighter load?
  3. I know its a screwy question, but I have many times wondered what the proper load development should be! The questions is: I have a STI Steel and was hoping to shoot around 1,000 FPS. I loaded the ammo for 950 , 1000 , 1050 , 1075. Pushing 115 Blue bullets and Titegroup. Obviously 950 felt amazing but would not cycle reliable, not even close. When I say reliable I mean, a few didn't get fully ejected and stuck between slide and sight block. 1050 was the most reliable although still had one not fully ejected. 1075 was perfect 25 for 25. Should I set the desired FPS (recoil) and play with springs, slide cuts, breaking gun it, etc... or just suck it up and shoot what the "stock" pistol will cycle efficiently the way the manufacture intended it? **STEEL CHALLENGE ONLY
  4. Luckily I do not have a limit at my local club. I am thinking to gettin get gun around 110 PF to 115 PF with my 115 Blue Bullets. I shot some low recoil Phoenix ammo through my Major Open gun and it felt like tiny baby farts. they were rated at 950fps which led me to believe that a low FPS round with the gassiest powder would be the best, lightest recoiling power/ bullet combination. I understand that the comp at that speed/PF is not used much, but I figured if that "gassy" powder helps only 5% or 10% of its capacity its still better than nothing. I guess I just have to try and find out.
  5. So we know how well Major Pistol meters. We know how flat it shoots, as well as how well it works the comp with the amount of gas. We know Itsaffordable and pretty accessible. Why not shoot it on my STI DVC Steel. I know the comp is barely used shooting minor out of a comp'ed gun. But if Major Pistol is so "gassy" why wouldn't it work for minor and STEEL, even if only 10% of the comp is used why not use its advantages. Am I seeing this wrong?? Is there a reason not to use a powder for Minor OPEN like the famous HS6, or 3N38, or Major Pistol for a Steel round on a Open Comp'ed set up?
  6. Sorry for specifying the brand. Looking for the one that rhymes with Pass Pedal.
  7. Could someone point me in the direction of a *thumb rest [generic]* for a STI Steel. Ideally silver color. Gold or black will do. Thanx
  8. Alright, I ask this with out yet trying the Arredondo slide, all inquiry / ZERO bashing. I recently purchased a Arredondo slide as I shoot Shooters World Major Pistol powder and have notices some powder though out press components and shell plate. The reality is that I do not mind it as it not much and every three hundred rounds I air can blow it off. My real desire was to drop the .04 - .14 grain spreads I constantly get. I know +/- .1 grain it can be standard but coming from a precision rifle world I would like to attempt to achieve a bit tighter consistency meaning better ES and SD. My new Arredondo powder slide seems of a lesser grade and quite honestly a bit flimsy. AGAIN I have not tried it and everything I have researched say they are great. Before I break down a not broken process, what makes them better that the "metal" Dillon slides?? The slide component inside the Arredondo is threaded and seems a lot easier to drift/give that the harder metal ones. Thanx Y'all!
  9. I found this post below and seems like something I may end up trying. I just wonder what the best way to polish that sucker to a mirror finish. I chucked up the powder funnel from my 650 in one of my lathes and took off a couple thousands so the re-sized case would slide up to the flare and then re-polished it. I loaded a thousand rounds this morning without a single case sticking...it works Awesome now....I had eliminated most of the powder getting all over the shell plate when loading except for when the case would stick...after a thousand rounds this morning, not a speck of powder anywhere....Thanks again...:)
  10. So you recommend spraying the inside of the case?!? I have read the posts about polishing and things to make it better, but I'm afraid somethings is wrong. Maybe this is it, lol.
  11. I am having some "resistance' or "sticking" of the powder funnel on NEW cases on my up cycle on my Dillon 650 press. It is the inside of the case that gets opened up to accept the bullet. I don't think I can lube the inside of the case as it could interfere with the load and make power stick to the "rim" of the case as well as the funnel creating a mess. It is only doing it with NEW cases once fired there a slight hesitation on the uplift but not a "sticking" Am I doing something wrong? is there a remedy? Thanx y'all. Pic attached! IMG_7001.HEIC
  12. Looking for some private lesson or classes as intro to Practical Shooting. I have shot plenty of 3 Gun but really would like to get detail info and pointers on the skills USPSA requires. I live in San Antonio Tx. Can anyone recommend a good “coach” or private instructor in the Central Texas area. I don’t mind driving an hour or so. Thanx. btw- I am dry firing already.
  13. Thats a great idea, except the few matches I have gone to, none of the people have the guns im looking for and if they did I have yet to see one hand their open rig over. lol I just purchased a Chaos, and I haven't seen seen any. The way I did it was talking to the builders and understanding what their goals are with the engineering / design. Atlas is design to return to true zero. Limcats tend to be flat shooting do to their long slides and long comps and look flashy. Do your research and a lot of the info can be obtained by talking to the builder. Just MY $.02
  14. I worked up my MAJOR PISTOL load in my CK as recommended instead of the WAC i was using. Looks like I will be about 9.6 gr. to get 172PF instead of the 6.7 of WAC. I feel a quicker smaller kick, but still not the infamous “dot not getting out of the glass” unicorn some of y’all talk about. (Jk) My question is are the pictures below un burnt powder? I obviously worked my way up and could have been some of the higher loads I tested. But unsure if that is what that is. Thnx y’all.
  15. 1.) Ok so below are the pictures of the primer sets after installing the reloading innovation spill stop pegs. In my opinion the wheel didn’t turn all the way and it pushed the primer partially, turning it partially. I also saw some primers that favored one side. Needless to say is took them off. They are great to arop the apillage but but I felt like they were pressing on the breaks when the round started to engage. 2.) My OAL is not as consistent as I would want it to be. I am currently loading 1.162. That’s just as close as I got it to 1.160 and figured it would make a darn difference. BUT! Every 4 or 5 round are coming out to 1.166 or 1.165. I am using range brass from Everglades ammo and doing zero trimming and anything for that matter. Is this something I need to address? I come from the precision rifle loading world where I trim, neck turn, uniform, anneal, etc.. thanx in advance!
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